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UC-NRLF 


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Mabel  Dulon  Purely 


FOOD  AND  FREEDOM 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

Microsoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/foodfreedomhouseOOpurdrich 


THE  MAID  OF  ORLEANS — AN  ANCIENT  AND  A  MODERN 
IDEAL 

From  the  clay  model  by  Anna  Vaughan  Hyatt,  before  the 
statue  was  cast  in  bronze  and  erected  on  Riverside  Drive 


FOOD  AND 
FREEDOM 

A  Household  Book 

BY 
MABEL  DULON   PURDY 

Graduate  of  Teachers  College,  Columbia  University 

and  the  Philadelphia  Cooking  School 

Household  Editor,  McClure  Publications 

ILLUSTRATED 


ENDORSED    BY 

THE  U.  S.  FOOD  ADMINISTRATION 


HARPER  y  BROTHERS  PUBLISHERS 

NEW  YORK  AND  LONDON 


A 


\ 


Food  and  Freedom 


Copyright,  191 8,  by  Harper  &  Brothers 

Printed  in  the  United  States  of  America 

Published  May,  1018 

e-b 


To 

All   Women 

who   have  already   given   help 

and 

All   Women 

who   may   still   need   help 

This   Book 

is   thankfully   and   hopefully 

dedicated    by    the   Author 


382087 


CONTENTS 

chap.  PAGE 

Preface xi 

Introduction xiil 

I.  Our  Emergency i 

II.  What  You  Can  Do 8 

III.  What  We  Should  Know 20 

IV.  The  World  on  a  Diet 34 

V.  Important  Food  Facts 52 

VI.  Planning  the  Meals 74 

VII.  Cooking  the  Meals no 

VIII.  Serving  the  Meals 127 

IX       Your  Recipes 137 

X.        Preserving  and  Storing  Food     ....  190 

XL      A  Kitchen  that  Will  Help  You     .     .    .  210 

XII.    Just  Thoughts \    .    .    .  238 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

The  Maid  of  Orleans — an  Ancient  and  a 

MODERN  IDEAL Frontispiece 

Picnics  Save  Work  and  Give  Pleasure    .  Facing  p.  132 
Jams    and    Marmalades    Prevent    Fruit 

Waste "       204 

A  Home-made  Drying  Outfit  that  Is  Prac- 
tical and  Inexpensive "       206 

The  Dining  Alcove .  213 

The  New  "Flush"  or  "Sanitary"  Door  .  217 

Cross-section  of  Dresser  Showing  Lower 

Shelves 219 

A  Kitchen  Floor  Plan 221 

Window  Over  the  Kitchen  Sink     .     .     .  227 

Side  Wall  of  the  Kitchen 231 

Let  Us  Make  of  Our  Homes  a  Place 
where  the  fairies  shall  love  to 
Come  and  Dance  among  the  Pitchers 
and  the  Tea-pots 236 


PREFACE 

U.  S.  Food  Administration, 

Washington,  D.  C. 

[HE  women  of  the  country  have  ac- 
cepted the  burden  that  the  Food  Ad- 
ministration and  the  President  himself 
have  thrust  upon  them.  They  have 
assumed  responsibility  for  the  saving  of  food, 
for  its  right  use,  for  its  proper  preparation.  They 
realize  that  the  situation  has  become  critical; 
that  there  is  not  enough  food  in  Europe;  that 
the  soldiers  of  the  Allies  must  be  maintained  in 
full  strength,  and  their  wives  and  children  at 
home  must  not  face  famine;  that  the  friendly 
neutrals  must  not  be  starved;  and  that  our  own 
army  in  France  must  never  lack  a  needed  ounce 
of  food.  They  are  willing  to  do  their  utmost; 
but  to  do  means  not  only  resolution,  it  means 
knowledge. 

Such  books  as  Food  and  Freedom  are  invalu- 
able in  helping  the  housekeeper  understand  just 
what  she  ought  to  do,  in  pointing  out  to  her  the 
way,  and  in  putting  her  in  touch  with  the  sources 
of  scientific  information  that  will  aid  her  in  her 


PREFACE 

task  of  changing  the  food  habits  of  a  nation. 
She  must  be  trained  to  meet  new  needs  and  new 
conditions  in  order  to  do  her  share  in  this  great 
upheaval.  ' '  Twentieth-century  ideals ' '  and ' '  mod- 
ern possibilities"  are  no  less  important  in  en- 
abling her  to  face  the  hard  facts  of  to-day  than 
are  the  older-fashioned  household  achievements. 
This  book  will  help  her  to  organize  her  duties 
and  to  bring  freedom  into  work  that  has  often 
been  a  symbol  of  bondage. 

United  States  Food  Administration. 

March  7,  igi8. 


INTRODUCTION 


N  spite  of  its  cruelty,  largely  because 
of  that,  the  Great  War  has  taught  us 
many  useful  lessons.  Perhaps  the 
greatest  of  these  is  the  importance  of 
food  education  and  the  general  need  of  food  knowl- 
edge in  the  homes  of  America.  Since  19 14  these 
homes  have  received  a  great  jolt  and  an  awaken- 
ing; instead  of  the  former  common,  indifferent 
ignorance  on  all  matters  dealing  with  food  and 
diet,  we  now  find  the  new  why  and  how  of  scien- 
tific feeding  rapidly  becoming  a  vital  factor  in 
the  daily  calculations  of  all  who  are  trying  to 
wrest  the  best  kind  of  a  living  from  their  par- 
ticular world. 

The  purpose  of  this  book  is  to  present,  in  com- 
pact form,  to  the  housekeeper  who  may  need  the 
special,  organized  food  and  household  knowledge 
now  demanded  of  her  as  a  patriotic  duty  such 
simple,  prime  facts  as  can  give  her  immediate 
assistance  with  definite,  practical  results.  At  the 
same  time  it  is  also  the  purpose  of  the  book, 
through  the  credit  notes  and  references  pains- 


INTRODUCTION 

takingly  assembled,  to  serve  as  a  guide  in  acquir- 
ing further  detailed  knowledge  from  that  great 
wealth  of  material  to  be  found  in  the  perfect  food 
and  home-making  literature  already  published. 
There  is  no  ambition  represented  in  the  pages  that 
follow  other  than  the  one  hope  of  possibly  making 
housekeeping  as  a  whole,  with  emphasis  on  wise 
family  feeding,  easier  and  happier  for  a  few 
women,  with  better  national  results,  at  a  time 
when  the  giving  of  any  help  in  this  line  is  also  a 
patriotic  duty. 

The  material  covered  includes  those  important 
facts  in  the  science  of  nutrition  a  clear  under- 
standing of  which  is  now  required  as  a  necessary 
background  for  proper  feeding  in  normal,  every- 
day living,  followed  by  practical  suggestions  for 
planning,  cooking,  and  serving  meals  in  the  sim- 
plest, happiest  way,  and  supplemented  by  a  chapter 
of  selected  and  tested  recipes.  The  changed  con- 
ditions of  living  naturally  brought  about  by  prog- 
ress, with  new  ideals,  new  needs,  new  responsibili- 
ties, new  benefits — all  emphasized  by  the  Great 
War — are  touched  on,  and  a  special  appeal  made 
for  household  system,  thrift,  and  food  conservation 
as  a  basis  of  national  strength  and  prosperity.  This 
material  is  built  up  on  years  of  scientific  study, 
teaching,  and  practical  experience,  including  par- 
ticular research  work  in  the  recent  advances 
made  in  scientific  feeding  and  organized  living. 


INTRODUCTION 

It  has  all,  moreover,  been  carefully  checked  with 
the  latest  scientific  conclusions  of  those  accepted 
authorities  in  the  food  and  household  world  whose 
records  have  earned  for  them  the  right  to  really 
know. 

The  author  acknowledges  with  gratitude  and 
full  credit  the  help  and  inspiration  received  from 
those  who  have  already  written  on  similar  sub- 
jects, from  the  work  of  the  United  States  Food 
Administration  and  the  Department  of  Agricult- 
ure, and  from  the  very  practical  support  of  the  edi- 
torial staff  of  the  McClure  Publications.  The  care- 
ful reading  of  the  manuscript  by  Miss  Gertrude 
B.  Lane,  the  valuable  criticisms  given  by  Dr. 
Carl  L.  Alsberg,  chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Chemistry, 
of  the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture, 
in  connection  with  the  chapters  on  nutrition,  and 
the  interested  artistic  assistance  of  Mr.  Herbert 
Baer,  in  connection  with  the  planning  and  draw- 
ing of  details  for  a  helpful  and  attractive  kitchen, 
are  specially  acknowledged  and  appreciated. 
1 


FOOD  AND  FREEDOM 


JOAN  OF  ARC  NEVER  DIES 

"While  it  was  France  whom  she  served,  her  in- 
fluence  and  lessons  are  not  limited  to  France. 
Though  she  is  separated  from  us  by  five  centuries, 
and  distant  some  four  thousand  miles  across  the 
sea,  though  entirely  isolated  in  experience,  it  is 
fitting  that  America  has  erected  a  statue  in  her 
honor."  If  this  is  so,  is  it  not  still  more  fitting 
that  at  this  critical  time  in  our  history,  as  well  as  in 
the  years  of  reconstruction  that  must  surely  follow, 
she  serve  as  an  exponent  of  what  faith  and  will  can 
accomplishf  What  one  frail  woman  did  because 
she  "believed"  others  can  do  also — it  matters  not 
what  the  purpose  or  ultimate  aim  may  be.  Jeanne 
d'Arc  fought  for  her  country  and  the  homes  of 
France;  we  are  fighting  for  our  country  and  the 
homes  of  America — not  only  to  save  them  at  this 
moment,  but  to  save  them  for  the  bigger,  happier 
civilization  that  must  come! 


FOOD  AND  FREEDOM 


OUR   EMERGENCY 

Every  housewife  who  practises  strict  economy  puts 
herself  in  the  ranks  of  those  who  serve  the  nation.  This 
is  the  time  for  America  to  correct  her  unpardonable  fault 
of  wastefulness  and  extravagance.  Let  every  man  and 
every  woman  assume  the  duty  of  careful,  provident  use 
and  expenditure  as  a  public  duty,  as  a  dictate  of  patriotism 
which  no  one  can  now  expect  ever  to  be  excused  or  forgiven 
for  ignoring. — President  Wilson. 

j|OT  only  because  of  the  ravages  of  war, 
but  through  many  ironies  of  fate,  the 
world  is  short  of  food — really  facing 
food  exhaustion.  Those  who  have 
followed  the  history  of  the  Great  War  know  that 
some  satisfactory  solution  of  the  world's  food  and 
feeding  problem,  in  its  three  great,  entangled 
phases — production,  control,  conservation — is  the 
trembling  issue  on  which  all  the  hopes  of  liberty 


2  FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

and  extended  democracy  for  the  world  now  rests. 
It  is  only  the  combined  force  of  every  individual 
will  in  an  unromantic  army  of  food  producers, 
controllers,  and  conservers  that  can  mend  our 
broken  world  and  hopefully  restore  it  to  a  higher 
plane  of  civilized  order  than  it  ever  held  before, 
for — and  with  apologies  to  the  great  Russian 
banker— food,  that  is  the  future  of  freedom  and 
peace ! 

Previous  to  the  outbreak  of  the  Great  War,  food 
thrift,  recognized  as  a  national  asset,  had  been 
more  or  less  consistently  practised  in  Europe, 
particularly,  perhaps,  in  Germany,  France,  and 
Italy.  Intensive  production  and  elimination  of 
household  food  waste  had  been  reduced  to  a 
science  and  almost  raised  to  a  fetish.  In  spite  of 
this  fact,  however,  the  master  importance  of  food, 
in  the  event  of  war,  was  not  completely  realized — 
even  by  otherwise  thoroughly  prepared  Germany. 
Man-power,  arms,  strategy,  and  gold  have  always 
been  the  factors  emphasized  and  counting  in  the 
history  of  past  wars.  No  sooner  had  the  titanic 
storm  broken  in  the  summer  of  19 14,  however, 
when  the  quick  and  full  realization  that  food 
plenty  or  lacking  would  win  or  lose  the  war 
came  home  to  the  fighting  nations  like  a  knife- 
thrust,  and  the  accommodating  storehouse 
doors  of  America  were  well-nigh  battered 
down,    And  then  America,  too,  perhaps  for  the 


OUR    EMERGENCY  3 

first  time  in  many  years  of  a  spendthrift  existence 
began  to  think. 

Although  the  United  States  produces  more  food 
than  any  other  country  in  the  world,1  for  a  period 
covering,  approximately,  twenty  years  preceding 
the  outbreak  of  the  war  food  production  in  the 
United  States  did  not  entirely  keep  up  with  the 
increase  in  population;  in  the  more  important 
staple  products — wheat,  meats,  milk,  and  allied 
foods — statistics  prove  a  definite  decline.2  At 
the  same  time  the  United  States  has  always  been 
looked  upon  as  an  ever  reliable  source  of  food  for 
many  of  the  nations  of  Europe.  England, 
France,  Holland,  Belgium,  Italy,  Germany  had 
been  in  the  habit  of  coming  to  us  for  food  which 
they  needed  in  excess  of  that  which  they  were 
able  to  produce  in  their  more  limited  territory. 
This  demand  was  made  largely  against  grain 
foods,  fats,  meat,  and,  to  an  extent,  sugar. 

For  a  corresponding  period,  due  to  the  normal 
shifting  and  evolution  of  economic  conditions — 
which  are  all  growing-pains,  as  it  were,  of  progress 
and  development — there  was  a  definite  and  seri- 
ous rise  in  the  United  States  in  the  price  of  all 
foodstuffs,  and  making  the  ends  of  the  household 
food  budget  meet  has  been  an  %  increasingly  dif- 

1  See  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  The  Food  Problem,  chap,  i, 
p.  9. 

2  Cf.  Report  from  United  States  Department  of  Agricult- 
ure, December,  191 6. 


4  FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

ficult  task  for  the  American  housekeeper.  To 
complicate  conditions  further,  we  have  been  con- 
tent to  go  our  way  commonly  without  knowledge 
on  the  entire  question  of  food  materials,  nutritive 
values,  economical  living,  marketing.  We  have 
even  been  charged,  and  to  an  extent  rightly,  with 
a  very  general  national  lack  of  thrift,  with  over- 
consumption,  with  shameful  waste  and  extrava- 
gant tastes  in  our  methods  of  living.1 

With  the  exception  of  the  United  States,  the 
present  food  shortage  is  almost  universal,  to  some 
extent,  and  in  the  staple  products — grains,  meat, 
dairy  products,  fats,  sugar — at  least.  In  the 
countries  which  have  been  passing  through  the 
crudest  realities  of  the  war  the  food-supply  is 
particularly  low.  Even  our  own  fortunate  sur- 
plus is  not  over-bountiful.  To  control,  order,  and 
fairly  divide  that  which  our  vaster  acreage  can  be 
made  to  produce  with  those  who  have  less  and 
need  help,  and  to  do  this  without  sacrificing  the 
health  or  definite  daily  needs  of  our  own  people, 
or  entirely  destroying  the  normal  balance  of  food 
conditions  in  our  own  country,  is  our  big  problem 
at  the  moment. 

In  other  words,  America  must  to-day  not  only 
feed  her  own  people,  but  she  must  feed  to  a  very 
appreciable  extent  the  peoples  of  Europe,   and 

1  Cf.  Reports  from  United  States  Department  of  Agri- 
culture for  the  year  191 7. 


OUR    EMERGENCY  5 

this  must  now  be  done  not  under  the  care-free 
conditions  that  prevailed  before  the  war,  but  in  the 
face  of  many  disadvantages  and  with  the  closest 
kind  of  calculation.  With  a  food-supply  scarcely 
keeping  pace  with  our  growing  population,  we 
must  give  more  than  we  ever  gave  when  the  years 
were  full.  Out  of  our  own  none  too  generous 
store,  already  sorely  depleted  by  over-exportation, 
with  little  help  from  distant  points,  we  must  pay 
the  tax  and  toll  of  war  on  the  world's  supply  of 
food.  And  how  shall  this  be  done?  The  pos- 
sible solution  lies,  as  we  know  if  we  have  learned 
our  lesson,  in  increased  and  more  stabilized  pro- 
duction of  food  in  the  country  as  a  whole,  in  the 
wise  regulation  and  control  of  that  food  produced, 
and  in  the  most  intelligent  use  and  conservation 
of  every  bit  of  food  available. 

Onto  the  shoulders  of  the  American  farmer  and 
the  American  housekeeper  has  the  weight  of  the 
burden  of  this  enormous  duty  of  ours  been  thrust. 
The  farmer  must  produce  the  needed  increase  in 
the  food-supply,  he  must  get  the  best  and  the  most 
out  of  every  acre  of  soil  he  tills;  the  housekeeper 
is  the  final  partitioner  of  the  food  available;  she 
must  get  the  best  and  the  most — both  for  our  own 
people  and  those  dependent  on  us — out  of  that 
food  which  is  produced.  She  must  make  it  go 
just  as  far  as  she  possibly  can,  with  the  very  best 
results  in  individual  and  national  health  and  food 


6  FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

satisfaction.  The  situation  finds  the  farmer, 
both  in  technical  knowledge  and  organized  effort, 
and  with  the  many  practical  mechanical  devices 
now  manufactured  for  improving  agriculture,  more 
or  less  prepared.  But  the  housekeeper's  task  is 
not  so  simple.  Before  she  can  get  the  best  or  the 
most  out  of  the  food  which  the  farmer  can  give 
her,  she  has  yet  to  learn  not  only  how  to  get  it  and 
how  to  stretch  it,  but,  first  of  all,  what  the  best 
and  the  most  may  be. 

Unfortunately,  of  what  we  have  been  accused 
is  in  many  respects  too  true — the  people  of  Amer- 
ica are  commonly  without  scientific  and  practical 
knowledge  on  the  entire  question  of  food  and  wise 
and  economical  family  feeding,  while  30  per  cent., 
it  has  been  estimated,  are  guilty  of  extravagant 
living  and  the  use  of  more  food  than  is  normally 
necessary.  "The  food  waste  in  the  household,  the 
experts  assert,  results  in  large  measure  from  bad 
preparation  and  bad  cooking,  from  improper  care 
and  handling,  and  in  well-to-do  families  from 
serving  an  undue  number  of  courses  and  an  over- 
abundant supply,  and  failing  to  save  and  utilize 
the  food  not  consumed.  As  an  instance  of  im- 
proper handling,  it  is  discovered  that  in  the 
preparation  of  potatoes  20  per  cent,  of  the  edible 
portion  in  many  cases  is  discarded."  * 

1  Report  of  the  Secretary,  United  States  Department  of 
Agriculture,  March,  191 7. 


OUR    EMERGENCY  7 

»  Lack  of  food  knowledge,  combined  with  lack  of 
organization  and  food  thrift  in  the  home,  and  its 
attendant  waste,  and  the  effect  of  this  on  the 
homes  of  America,  our  country  as  a  whole,  and 
the  complex  relationship  now  existing  between 
our  own  food  problem  and  the  food  problem  of  the 
world — this  is  in  reality  our  biggest  emergency. 
It  must  be  faced  with  an  open  mind,  with  clear 
thinking  and  definite  action.  It  can  only  be  rem- 
edied by  the  will  to  remedy  it,  and  the  method  is 
the  wisest  kind  of  food  administration  in  its  biggest 
and  broadest  sense,  based  on  the  soundest  kind  of 
food  and  home-making  knowledge  and  its  practice. 
If,  as  Herbert  Hoover  has  told  us,  the  ultimate 
success  of  food  administration  really  rests  upon 
the  '•  intelligent  management  of  the  American 
housewives  in  our  twenty-two  million  homes,"  and 
that,  after  all,  "only  the  guiding  hand  of  woman 
can  control,"  the  position  that  the  American 
woman  now  holds  in  the  life  of  the  world,  the  free- 
dom and  strength  of  our  own  country,  and  the 
happiness  and  efficiency  of  the  American  home 
is,  indeed,  a  strategic  one. 


II 


WHAT   YOU   CAN   DO 

You  are  a  great  army  drafted  by  conscience  into  what 
is  now  the  most  urgent  activity — that  of  increasing  and 
conserving  the  food-supply. — Herbert  Hoover. 

HEN  the  fighting  nations  of  Europe 
felt  the  actual  possibilities  of  famine, 
when  they  realized  that  the  food-sup- 
ply was  decreasing  as  their  food  needs 
increased,  they  immediately  turned  their  atten- 
tion to  some  effective  form  of  food  control — 
involving  increased  production,  fair  division,  and 
practical  diet  regulations.  In  Italy,  France,  and 
England — although  decided  central  measures  in 
connection  with  the  certain  staple  foods  and  the 
fixing  of  prices  developed  as  conditions  grew  more 
serious — the  cry  for  help  through  government 
food  control  came  from  the  people,  and  the  real 
strength  of  the  measures  adopted  lay  in  the 
"voluntary  co-operation  of  the  households."  In 
relentless  Germany,  almost  entirely  cut  off  from 
any  outside  food  help,  government  food-control 


WHAT    YOU    CAN    DO  9 

was  forced  on  the  people  and  household  co-opera- 
tion required  by  law."  l  "Russia,  with  perhaps 
the  greatest  possibilities  of  food  production  in 
Europe,  did  nothing  at  all,  and  out  of  Russia's 
food  situation  grew  her  revolution."  2 

When  America's  crisis  came,  in  April,  191 7, 
the  United  States  had  the  mistakes  and  successes 
of  Europe  to  profit  by,  and  the  opportunity  to 
fully  realize  that  a  sane  and  effective  system  of 
food  control  and  national  strength  went  hand  in 
hand.  On  June  10,  191 7,  two  months  after  war 
had  been  declared,  a  food-control  bill  was  intro- 
duced, and  Herbert  Hoover — with  the  help  of 
an  enthusiastic  body  of  volunteer  workers — be- 
came, although  unofficially  at  first,  our  food  ad- 
viser and  protector.  Just  two  months  later  the 
food  bill  was  passed,  and  Mr.  Hoover  was  then 
officially  appointed  as  our  Food  Administrator, 
and  through  him  a  Food  Administration  Board 
established. 

The  story  of  Mr.  Hoover,  his  remarkable  ability 
for  organization,  combined  with  a  rare  and  gen- 
erous sympathy  and  an  almost  superhuman 
faculty  for  concentration,  is  well  known  to  the 
world  to-day.  As  a  food  administrator,  Herbert 
Hoover  won  his  spurs  in  innocent,  war-startled 

1  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  The  Food  Problem,  chaps,  ii,  iii, 
iv. 

2  "What  Food  Control  Really  Means,"  special  paper, 
United  States  Food  Administration. 


io         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Belgium,  where  through  his  genius  alone  millions 
of  destitute,  starving  men,  women,  children,  babies, 
were  fed  and  clothed  and  soothed  and  encouraged. 
For  almost  three  years  Hoover  stood  his  ground 
— facing  kings  and  diplomats,  human  charity 
and  tyrants,  and  getting  the  help  he  needed — 
when  our  own  America  was  threatened.  President 
Wilson  called  Mr.  Hoover  home.  He  came,  he 
grasped  our  condition,  our  infinite  possibilities, 
our  power  for  good  if  our  wealth,  particularly  that 
of  food,  could  be  controlled,  ordered,  and  fairly 
divided.    And  then  he  set  to  work. 

As  a  result,  the  best  minds  and  hearts  in  Amer- 
ica are  now  striving  to  master  the  food  problem 
and  the  food  responsibilities  of  our  country,  not 
only  for  the  present,  but  with  thought  for  the 
future  as  well.  Every  phase  of  the  food  problem 
is  represented,  from  increased,  improved,  and 
more  stabilized  production,  through  packing,  ship- 
ping, storing,  marketing,  preservation  for  future 
needs,  down  to  the  final  use  of  food  in  the  home 
and  in  public  eating-places;  nor  is  the  education 
of  the  public  in  food  conditions,  food  needs,  and 
food  possibilities  overlooked. 

The  United  States  Food  Administration  stands 
for  the  food  welfare  of  the  United  States  and 
those  dependent  on  us.  The  hopes  of  our 
Food  Administration  when  established  were 
threefold: 


WHAT   YOU    CAN    DO  u 

First,  to  so  guide  the  trade  in  the  fundamental 
food  commodities  as  to  eliminate  vicious  specu- 
lation, extortion,  and  wasteful  practices,  and  to 
stabilize  prices  in  the  essential  staples;  second, 
to  guard  our  trade  exports  so  that  against  the 
world's  shortage  we  retain  sufficient  supplies 
for  our  own  people,  and  to  co-operate  with  the 
Allies  to  prevent  inflation  of  prices;  and,  third, 
that  we  stimulate  in  every  manner  within  our 
.  power  the  saving  of  our  food  in  order  that  we 
may  increase  exports  to  our  Allies  to  a  point 
which  will  enable  them  to  properly  provision 
their  armies,  and  to  feed  their  people  during  the 
coming  winter.  The  Food  Administration  is 
called  into  being  to  stabilize  and  not  to  disturb 
conditions,  and  to  defend  honest  enterprise 
against  illegitimate  competition.  It  has  been 
devised  to  correct  the  abnormalities  and  abuses 
that  have  crept  into  trade  by  reason  of  the  world 
disturbance,  and  to  restore  business  as  far  as 
may  be  to  a  reasonable  basis.1 

When  organized,  the  Food  Administration  Office 
was  "specifically  charged  with  the  duties  of  carry- 
ing out  the  mandates  of  Congress  in  regulating 
supplies  and  managing  a  national  campaign  of 
food-saving."  2  Covering  the  three  great  activi- 
ties— Production,  Control,  and  Conservation — its 
business  includes  four  divisions:  Control  of  ex- 
ports;  trade  regulations  to  the  exclusion  of  both 

1  From  a  statement  to  President  Wilson  made  by  Herbert 
Hoover,  after  his  appointment  on  August  io,  191 7. 

2  "Ten  Lessons  on  Food  Conservation,"  Bulletin,  United 
States  Food  Administration. 


12         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

legitimate  or  illegitimate  speculations;  the  estab- 
lishment of  state  administration  boards  to  co- 
operate with  the  central  board;  the  mobilization 
of  men  and  women  all  over  the  country  to  carry 
out  the  directions  for  food  conservation.1 

The  Food  Law  authorizes  a  governmental  con- 
trol over  the  supply,  distribution,  and  movement 
of  all  food,  feeds,  and  fuel,,  and  all  machinery, 
implements,  and  equipment  required  for  their  * 
actual  production.  Any  agency  necessary  to 
carry  out  their  control  may  be  created;  any 
existing  department  of  the  government  may  be 
used.  *  All  destruction  of  food  and  fuel  for  the 
purpose  of  enhancing  prices  is  prohibited;  all 
wilful  waste,  all  hoarding,  all  monopolization, 
all  discrimination  and  unfair  practices,  all  un- 
just charges  in  handling  and  dealing  in  food  and 
fuel,  and  all  combining  to  restrict  production 
supply,  or  distribution  are  made  unlawful.2 

Although  the  Food  Law  authorizes  very  far- 
reaching  powers,  the  Food  Administration  be- 
lieves that  "co-operation  is  better  than  law  in 
making  the  countless  complex  changes  in  industry 
and  trade  necessary  for  orderly  food  control."  3 
Quoting  from  Mr.  Hoover  again,  our  food  prob- 
lem is  not  considered  from  the  viewpoint  of  force 

1  u  Ten  Lessons  on  Food  Conservation,"  Bulletin,  United 
States  Food  Administration. 

2  The  Food  Problem,,  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  p.  21. 

8  "The  World  on  Rations,"  Special  Paper,  United  States 
Food  Administration. 


WHAT   YOU    CAN    DO  13 

— "  always  from  the  viewpoint  of  voluntary  ef- 
fort." *  Every  one  is  asked  to  enter  the  fold  as 
a  volunteer  worker,  and  the  heart-and-soul  an- 
swers that  have  come  to  this  patriotic  call,  the 
enthusiasm  and  conscientiousness  with  which 
special  appeals  for  food-sparing  or  food  use  have 
been  met  and  kept,  prove  that  we  have  ground 
for  the  greatest  faith  in  our  democracy  and  con- 
tinued and  extended  liberty. 

Although  created  purely  as  a  war-emergency 
measure,  it  is  now  believed  that,  even  had  not 
the  war  come  home  to  us  directly,  food  control 
in  some  form  would  have  been  called  for  by  the 
people,  for  food  conditions  had  reached  a  climax 
where  some  action  for  the  welfare  of  the  country 
was  urgently  required.  If  this  is  so,  shall  we  not 
hope  then  that  some  sane  form  of  food  adminis- 
tration may  become  a  permanent  factor  in  our 
government?  Whether  for  war  or  for  peace, 
however,  with  every  aim,  phase,  and  division 
of  our  present  or  any  similar  government  food 
organization  in  Washington,  every  kitchen  in 
everystate  in  the  United  States  is  definitelyand  in- 
timately connected.  The  vibrations  of  every  daily 
food  need  or  demand  of  the  people  are  recorded 
in  the  office  of  the  Food  Administration,  and  it  is 
the  housekeeper,  better  than  any  one  else,  who, 

1  "Food  Armies  of  Liberty,"  Herbert  Hoover,  National 
Geographic  Magazine,  September,  191 7. 
2 


i4         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

in  the  understanding  and  ability  with  which  she 
regulates  her  home,  can  wisely  control  and  rightly 
direct  these  food  needs  and  wants.  Just  to  the 
extent  that  she  plans  her  meals,  buys  her  food, 
cooks,  serves,  and  saves  intelligently  or  not  does 
she  register  as  a  helper  or  a  drag  in  the  work  of 
strengthening  the  food  situation  of  the  country. 
Twenty-two  million  homes,  twenty-two  million 
housekeepers,  organized  and  understanding,  are 
a  power  that  must  be  reckoned  with.  The  na- 
tional food  problem  cannot  be  separated  from 
the  home  food  problem,  and  just  to  the  extent 
that  the  food  problem  is  placed  on  a  sounder 
footing  in  the  homes  in  the  United  States  will 
the  United  States  and  the  other  nations  of  the 
world  benefit  accordingly. 

Then  the  question  comes,  What  definite  steps 
can  the  housekeepers  of  America  take  in  order  to 
help  in  this  new  and  important  work  of  food  ad- 
ministration? How  shall  each  individual  house- 
keeper prepare  herself  to  meet  the  burdens  now 
so  insistently  pressed  upon  her,  and  through  that 
preparation  count  as  an  active  force  in  bettering 
food  conditions  the  world  over?  In  partial  an- 
swer, the  following  summary  suggests  itself: 

WHAT   YOU   CAN   DO 
1.    Help  to  Produce  More  Food: 

By  recognizing  the  rights  of  the  farmer  to  a 
just  profit  and  a  free  market. 


WHAT   YOU    CAN    DO  15 

By  cultivating  and  planting  and  cherishing 
every  available  acre,  lot,  garden  spot,  or  yard 
to  help  feed  your  family,  for  the  present,  at 
least. 

By  using  the  foods  urged  by  the  government; 
by  sparing  the  foods  we  are  asked  to  spare. 

2.  Help  to  Regulate  Food  Distribution: 

By  assisting  the  Food  Administration  and 
the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture 
at  Washington,  through  your  home  state  and 
town  to  keep  the  country's  food-supply  in- 
ventoried. How  much  available  food  is  on 
hand,  where  it  is,  to  whom  it  belongs,  how 
it  may  best  be  marketed,  what  the  crop  and 
other  food  prospects  are  in  different  localities, 
or  what  special  food  difficulties  may  prevail, 
are  matters  that  concern  us  all. 

By  fighting  all  wrong  food  control  or  other 
unwise  or  unfair  handling  or  manipulations 
that  may  artificially  cut  off  the  supply  and 
increase  prices. 

3.  Help  to  Conserve  Food: 

By  studying  organized  and  economical  living, 
food  values,  scientific  feeding,  proper  cook- 
ing. Get  in  touch  with  the  United  States 
Food  Administration  Board,  the  United  States. 
Department  of  Agriculture,  or  with  your  state 
college  of  agriculture,  and  take  advantage  of 
all  the  available  free  information  that  is 
printed    and    so    generously    distributed   by 


16         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

these  agencies.  Take  every  opportunity  that 
may  come  to  you,  or,  better,  create  the  op- 
portunity, to  become  acquainted  with  au- 
thentic food  facts.  Study  reliable  books,  bul- 
letins, and  magazine  articles  on  the  subject 
of  food  and  housekeeping.  Learn  to  plan 
meals,  buy,  cook,  and  serve  without  waste. 

By  serving  and  eating  only  what  is  needed; 
let  that  be  enough,  however,  to  maintain 
health  and  the  full  working  efficiency  of  the 
body. 

By  eliminating  all  wasteful  methods  of  living, 
false  standards,  and  household  food  waste. 

By  properly  preserving  and  storing  food,  when 
advisable  and  practical,  against  future  need. 

If,  in  our  efforts  along  these  lines,  we  shall 
ultimately  succeed  in  establishing  a  closer  union 
between  the  government  and  the  people  than  our 
political  history  has  ever  recorded,  in  acquiring 
that  scientific  knowledge  of  foodstuffs  now  recog- 
nized as  so  vital,  in  improving  food  distribution 
and  marketing  conditions  so  that  our  vast  possi- 
bilities in  food  production  can  materialize  and 
become  available  without  waste  and  undvie  cost, 
and  in  so  organizing  our  daily  living  that  the  sum 
total  of  drudgery  and  friction  is  lessened,  we  shall 
perform  a  service  to  this  country  far  greater  than 
we  can  perhaps  visualize  at  once.     To  consum- 


WHAT    YOU    CAN    DO  17 

mate  such  a  service,  however — although  we  have 
been  placing  the  burden  of  our  troubles  on"  the 
American  housekeeper — the  unselfish  co-opera- 
tion of  all  interests  in  the  country — individual, 
business,  professional,  political — is  required.  Are 
we  ready  to  give  "for  our  flag  and  for  our  free- 
dom" and  for  our  homes,  now  and  for  all  time, 
that  co-operation? 

"It  will  not  be  a  creed,  but  a  crusade,  that  will 
unite  Christendom"  and  save  democracy  the 
spirit  of  the  present  adds.  Those  who  have  their 
fingers  on  the  pulse  of  the  world  will  tell  you  that 
our  crusade  has  come.  And  the  specific  nature 
of  that  crusade — so  far  as  America,  at  least, 
is  concerned — must  be  a  crusade  for  carrying 
food  knowledge  and  a  deeper  appreciation  of 
the  far-reaching  value  of  that  knowledge,  properly 
understood  and  applied,  into  every  home  in  this 
great  country.  For  the  waste  and  the  fire  which 
have  bled  and  scorched  our  world  we  must  at 
least  in  one  particular  show  gratitude.  What  the 
American  women  have  not  known  about  the  dull 
routine  of  food  and  feeding,  the  great  conflict  has 
disclosed;  what  power  for  good  lies  in  the  light 
now  shed  on  that  routine  it  has  brought  forth. 

As  sisters,  as  wives,  as  mothers,  as  friends,  as 
helpers  to  all  that  is  noble,  you,  the  educated 
women  of  this  generation,  have  a  responsibility 
and  an  influence  that  should  make  you  at  once 


18  FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

happy  and  grave — happy,  because  of  the  limitless 
rtower  for  good  that  comes  of  doing  day  by  day 
what  must  be  done,  and  of  seeing,  even  in  the 
drudgery  of  it,  "a  light  that  never  was  on  sea 
nor  land";  grave,  lest  in  times  of  human  weak- 
ness you  may  turn  from  the  light  and  may  see 
only  a  sad  and  dull  routine  in  a  world  of  dark- 
ness and  sorrow.  In  these  hours  which  may  be 
only  the  reactionary  consequence  of  the  best 
work  you  have  ever  done — the  nervous  depres- 
sion that  follows  nervous  exaltation — learn  to 
say  with  the  old  philosopher,  "This,  too,  shall 
pass,"  and  learn  to  look, even  at  your  own  weari- 
ness, with  the  eyes  of  a  poet.  For  I  still  believe 
that,  though  few  women  have  been  great  poets, 
it  is  part  of  a  woman's  mission  to  put  poetry 
into  life  .  .  .  not  to  scorn  the  cabbage,  but.  to  in- 
vest it  with  a  rose  motive,  to  see  the  light  that 
kindles  the  commonplace  into  everlasting 
truth.1 

REFERENCES  AND   CREDIT  NOTE: 

The  food  facts  as  outlined  in  Chapters  I  and  II  have 
been  arranged  from  the  following  authoritative  sources; 
full  credit  is  given.  For  further  and  more  detailed 
knowledge,  these  publications  are  earnestly  recom- 
mended: 

The  Food  Problem,   Kellogg  and  Taylor,   Macmillan 

Company,  New  York,  N.  Y. 
"Ten  Lessons  in  Food  Conservation,"  United  States 

Food  Administration,  Special  Bulletin. 
Bulletin  No.  6,  United  States  Food  Administration. 

1  Le  Baron  Russell  Briggs,  Harvard  University, 


WHAT    YOU    CAN    DO  19 

"What  Food  Control  Means,"  United  States  Food 
Administration,  Special  Paper. 

"The  World  on  Rations,"  United  States  Food  Ad- 
ministration, Special  Paper. 

Annual  Report,  Secretary  Houston,  United  States 
Department  of  Agriculture,  December,  1916. 

"The  Food  Situation,"  Secretary  Houston,  United 
States  Department  of  Agriculture,  March,  191 7. 

"Food  Armies  of  Liberty,"  Herbert  Hoover,  National 
Geographic  Magazine,  September,  191 7. 


Ill 


WHAT   WE    SHOULD   KNOW 

The  new  democracy  holds  the  near  solution  of  domestic 
drudgery.  .  .  .  To  have  only  beautiful  things  and  artistic 
devices  in  our  homes  in  order  to  produce  a  simplicity 
de  luxe  would  be  to  emancipate  many  women  and  cheer 
many  men.  The  new  home  will  be  a  well-organized  and 
beautiful  expression  of  a  new  life  in  which  men  and 
women  together  will  gradually  make  disorder,  dirt,  and 
extravagance  conspicuous  by  their  absence. — Mrs.  Have- 
lock  Ellis,  in  The  Craftsman  Magazine,  July,  191 4. 

I F  we,  the  housekeepers  of  America,  are 
effectively  to  answer  this  call  to  serve 
the  world,  if  we  are  to  satisfy  our  ob- 
ligation in  the  present  emergency,  if 
we  are  to  build  better  for  the  future  than  we  have 
built  in  the  past,  there  are  certain  fundamental 
facts  in  connection  with  home-making  with  which 
we  should  be  familiar.  We  should,  moreover, 
be  able  to  trace  these  facts  in  their  logical  sig- 
nificance, and  appreciate  them  in  their  relative 
importance.     These  facts  clearly  grasped,  once 


WHAT    WE    SHOULD    KNOW    21 

sensed  in  some  orderly  fashion,  should  form  a 
helpful  background  on  which  to  shape  our  service. 
When  ordered,  they  read  somewhat  as  follows: 

The  home  is  the  birthplace  of  every  human  im- 
pulse.1 It  represents  the  unit  of  the  state,  and 
has  very  fittingly  been  called  the  index  of  civil- 
ization. What  happens  in  the  home  shapes 
the  world  beyond. 

Home-making  deals  essentially  with  the  material 
protection  and  spiritual  advancement  of  the 
family  or  those  who  make  up  the  home. 

Ideal  home-making  requires  the  combined,  or- 
ganized effort  and  unselfish  devotion  of  both  a 
man  and  a  woman;  it  includes  such  feeding, 
clothing,  shelter  as  well  as  moral,  mental,  and 
social  education  for  each  member  of  the  family 
as  shall  enable  each  to  get  the  best  and  the  most 
out  of  life  by  giving  the  best  and  the  most  to 
life. 

On  the  material  side,  the  man's  part  has  dealt 
primarily  with  providing  shelter  and  acquiring 
such  raw  materials  as  might  be  converted  into 
suitable  food,  clothing,  and  furnishing.  Wom- 
an's part  has  dealt  primarily  with  the  conver- 
sion of  these  raw  materials  into  their  most  use- 
ful form. 

With  progress  and  development,  the  type  of  raw 
material,  the  method  of  acquiring  it,  and  the 

1  Helen  Campbell,  Household  Economics,  chap,  i,  p.  18. 


22         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

means  of  converting  it  into  the  desired  end 
have  changed  from  time  to  time. 

With  progress,  also,  man's  efforts  and  services 
have  become  definitely  organized  and  are  now 
recognized,  valued,  and  paid  for  on  some  exact 
basis  of  calculation;  they  are  commonly  called 
.wage-earning.  Woman's  efforts  and  services 
have  remained  unorganized,  have  not  been  defi- 
nitely recognized,  and  have  been  accepted  with- 
out being  fully  valued;  they  are  commonly  called 
housekeeping. 

To-day,  man  brings  money  to  the  home  rather 
than  raw  materials,  while  it  is  largely  a  woman's 
work  to  use  this  money  to  the  best  possible  ad- 
vantage— for  the  individual,  the  home,  and  the 
nation.  This  means  wise  spending  for  both  raw 
materials  and  finished  products,  as  well  as  wise 
utilization  of  all  materials  and  products  pur- 
chased. 

This  twofold  effort  is  not  entirely  simple,  how- 
ever. It  requires  some  knowledge  of  values, 
with  the  power  to  choose  wisely;  some  knowl- 
edge of  production,  with  the  ability  to  do  and 
make  things  well;  some  appreciation  of  the  re- 
lation of  the  home  to  outside  production  and 
distribution,  With  judgment  to  rightly  direct 
and  wisely  control  home  demands.  All  this, 
in  turn,  requires  trained  intelligence,  skill,  en- 
ergy* time.  In  addition,  the  growing  and  right- 
ful desire  of  all  women  for  freedom  and  self- 
development,  for  recognition  of  their  services, 
for  a  "paid  job"  of  their  own,  has  added  other 


WHAT   WE    SHOULD    KNOW    23 

complications.  Moreover,  the  old  habit  of  lack 
of  organized  effort  has  persisted,  and  confusion 
and  waste  in  the  home  have  followed. 

To-day,  with  fewer  things  to  do  in  the  home 
than  formerly,  with  means  to  make  more  simple 
those  things  that  remain  to  be  done,  with  a 
broader,  freer,  sweeter  individual  life  within 
our  reach,  home-making  has  become  the  unsolved 
problem  that  we  find  it,  and  our  homes  are  suf- 
fering, and  the  world  beyond  is  feeling  it. 

From  its  very  nature,  and  its  very  necessity, 
and  its  unyielding  effect  on  the  development  of 
the  individual,  that  part  of  housekeeping  dealing 
with  food  and  feeding  is  the  most  complicated, 
is  most  far-reaching  in  its  influence,  and  requires 
the  most  readjustment.  As  housekeepers,  we 
have  neither  spent  our  food  money  nor  utilized 
our  food  materials  to  the  best  advantage;  we 
have  not  entirely  kept  pace  with  new  conditions 
and  new  needs;  we  have  not  mastered  the  new 
knowledge  required.  As  a  result,  we  stand  un- 
prepared, as  a  body,  to  meet  wisely  and  effi- 
ciently our  share  of  the  great  world  food  and 
feeding  problem  suddenly  thrust  upon  us, to  feed 
not  only  ourselves,  but  those  who  are  dependent 
upon  us,  to  save  our  homes  for  that  bigger,  freer 
living  that  must  come.  We  need  home  help, 
ourselves,  before  we  can  give  the  national  and 
world  help  asked  of  us. 

How  can  this  help  be  obtained?    There  is  only 
one  real  way.     It  can  only  be  obtained  through 


24         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

organization  in  the  home  and  education  on  the 
part  of  those  who  keep  the  home.1 

The  point  has  now  been  reached  where  order 
must  be  introduced  into  our  scheme  of  home- 
making  and  a  fresh  start  made.  The  idea  of 
establishing  a  home  on  saner  standards,  and  con- 
ducting it  on  business  principles,  must  be  common- 
ly accepted  by  the  world.  Women's  end,  specif- 
ically, must  be  organized,  recognized,  and  given 
a  money  value.  Housekeeping  must  be  lifted 
from  its  daily,  ceaseless,  careless  grind  and  faced 
and  conquered  and  paid  for,  just  as  any  other 
worth  while  work  is  faced  and  conquered  and 
paid  for.  The  home  to-day  must  meet  the  condi- 
tions of  to-day.  The  necessary,  practical  steps 
in  order  to  bring  this  about  include: 

1.    Organization  of  home-making  and  housekeeping  as 
a  whole: 

By  recognizing  the  money  value  of  household 
work,  and  crediting  this  as  a  definite  part  of 
the  annual  income. 

By  planning  an  annual  budget,  based  on  this 
total  income,  and  living  up  to  this  budget  as 
conscientiously  as  possible. 

1  There  are  those,  however,  who  believe  that  help  must 
come  by  taking  the  food  problem  out  of  the  home  entirely. 
While  economy  in  materials,  money,  time,  and  labor 
would  unquestionably  result,  is  this  the  only  end  in  home- 
making,  is  it  the  only  basis  on  which  national  prosperity 
must  be  founded?  Would  economy  so  effected  be  of  value 
to  the  world?  ' 


WHAT    WE    SHOULD    KNOW    25 

By  securing  " household  help"  through  sim- 
plified living,  efficient  working  conditions  in 
the  home,  and,  where  further  help  may  be  re- 
quired and  can  be  afforded,  through  profes- 
sional help  based  on  an  eight-hour  day. 

2.  Specialized  education  and  technical  training  in  the 
science  of  home-making  and  housekeeping,  particu- 
larly in  that  part  of  housekeeping  dealing  with  food 
and  family  feeding. 

For  the  two  people  who  constitute  the  im- 
portant members  of  the  home  partnership — the 
man  and  the  woman — there  are,  in  reality, 
exactly  the  same  problems  to  be  faced  as  there 
are  by  any  individual,  firm,  or  corporation  that 
is  about  to  engage  in  any  productive  and  hope- 
fully profitable  enterprise  in  the  business  world. 
In  order  that  the  home-making  problem  can  be 
squarely  and  fairly  met,  with  profitable  returns 
for  both  partners,  the  following  points  should  be 
squarely  and  fairly  faced  before  the  start  is  made : 

The  capital  on  hand. 

The  annual  income,  estimated  both  in  money 
earned  and  household  service  given. 

The  special  needs  of  the  particular  home  under 
consideration,  witU provision  for  its  development 
and  protection  for  the  future. 

In  other  words,  one  should  take  stock,  as  it  were, 
of  all  assets  and  liabilities,  invest  the  available 


26         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

capital  wisely  in  the  desired  home  plant  and  its 
necessary  equipment,  plan  a  well-balanced  bud- 
get, dividing  the  total  annual  income  to  the  very 
best  advantage,  and  never  once  lose  sight  of  the 
fact  that  each  new  year  should  see  the  proposed 
" business' '  farther  along  the  road  in  mutual 
happiness  and  wealth,  always  an  asset  to  the 
community.  This  is  a  large  order,  possibly,  but, 
with  determination  and  the  right  method  of  ap- 
proach, it  can  usually  be  rilled. 

With  the  available  capital  once  properly  in- 
vested in  a  suitable  house,  the  next  important 
move  is  to  work  out  the  best  possible  division 
of  the  regular  income  to  cover  expenditures  for 
a  certain  interval.  This  division  of  income  is 
spoken  of  as  the  " family  budget."  Clearly  de- 
fined, "a  budget  is  a  detailed  plan  of  anticipated 
income  and  expenditure  for  some  definite  future 
period  of  time,  as  a  week,  or  month,  or  year;  it 
is  intended  to  control  expenditures  during  that 
period."  l 

A  well-arranged  budget  includes  five  main 
items:  food,  home,  clothing,  running  expenses, 
and  personal  development,  with  provision  for  the 
future — these  items  to  be  considered  in  the  order 
given.  Under  normal  conditions  of  living,  ex- 
penditures for  these  items,  in  incomes  ranging 

1  Benjamin  R.  Andrews,  Ph.D.,  A  Survey  of  Your  House- 
hold  Finances. 


WHAT   WE    SHOULD    KNOW    27 

from  two  thousand  to  four  thousand  dollars,  for 
an  average  family  of  three  to  five  persons,  have 
been  planned  on  a  more  or  less  definite  percentage 
basis,  approximately  as  follows: * 

Food 30  per  cent. 

Rent,  or  interest  on  home 20        " 

Clothing 15        " 

Running  expenses 15        " 

Advancement,  education,  savings  20        " 

To  what  extent  the  percentage  expenditures 
suggested  can  be  followed  will  depend  upon  local 
conditions,  the  ages  and  needs  of  the  various 
members  of  the  family,  and  personal  and  social 
ambitions.  An  annual  budget  carefully  planned, 
however,  and  put  in  effect  on  the  first  day  of  the 
home-making  business  year  will  more  or  less 
enable  one  to  control  expenditures  in  each  depart- 
ment of  living  for  that  year.  At  least  we  can 
know  within  certain  limitations  what  our  ex- 
penditures are,  and  how  we  are  prepared  to  meet 
them.  With  a  budget  well  in  hand,  if  it  is  not 
possible  to  make  ends  meet  in  one  way,  other 
methods  will  suggest  themselves. 

Of  all  the  items  covered  in  the  family  budget, 
however,  that  of  food  combined  with  operating 
expenses,  or  the  cost  of  running  the  home — which 
includes  fuel,  light,  help,  upkeep — is  the  most 

1  Cf.  Ellen  H.  Richards,  The  Cost  of  Living,  chap,  iii; 
also,  John  B.  Leeds,  The  Household  Budget,  chap.  vi. 


2S         FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

variable  and  the  most  complicated.  It  is  con- 
stantly affected  by  outside  local  and  world  con- 
ditions. It  is,  therefore,  the  most  difficult  to 
handle  with  the  greatest  consistent  advantage 
to  both  the  home  and  the  country.  Under  the 
present  disturbed  conditions  this  is  particularly 
true. 

With  this  food  and  feeding  problem  of  the 
average  home  intelligently  mastered,  however, 
housekeepers  must  agree  that  comparatively  little 
now  remains  that  is  difficult  in  home-making. 
For  the  housekeeper  of  to-day  who  realizes  the 
importance  of  this  home  problem,  and  appreciates 
its  relation  to  the  greater  food  and  feeding  prob- 
lem of  the  world,  and  that  both  problems  are 
her  very  definite  personal  responsibilities  in  the 
present  crisis,  there  is  but  one  way  out.  This 
way  lies  through  a  scientific  knowledge  of  food 
values  wisely  interpreted  and  consistently  and 
conscientiously  applied  according  to  the  food 
needs  of  those  for  whom  she  is  responsible.  This 
is  sometimes  called  scientific  feeding.  When  it 
can  be  accomplished  with  little  effort,  without 
waste,  and  with  the  best  and  happiest  results  to 
all  concerned  for  the  money,  time,  and  energy 
spent,  it  might  be  called  good  housekeeping. 

The  questions  we  should  know  how  to  answer 
in  order  to  feed  scientifically,  or  to  be  good  house- 
keepers, as  we  may  prefer  to  call  it,  include: 


WHAT    WE    SHOULD    KNOW    29 

What  food  is. 
Why  food  is  needed. 
What  the  different  food  elements  are. 
What  each  does  for  the  body. 
How  much  of  each  is  needed. 
What  common  foods  best  supply  them. 
What  proportion  and  combinations  are  desirable. 
What  part  cooking  and  serving  play  in  the  ulti- 
mate nutritive  satisfaction  food  can  give. 

We  should  also  know: 

How  to  plan,  buy,  cook,  serve,  save  to  the  best 
advantage  for  every  interest  affected — the  in- 
dividual, the  home,  our  own  country,  those  in 
other  parts  of  the  world  now  dependent  upon  us. 

But,  even  fortified  with  this  knowledge,  the 
housekeeper  cannot  put  it  into  practice  entirely 
alone.  In  addition  to  her  own  efforts,  she  re- 
quires some  practical  help  with  the  actual  work 
connected  with  the  cooking  and  serving  of  meals. 
If  this  help  is  not  secured  in  some  way,  the  house- 
keeper is  overworked  and  her  particular  enter- 
prise in  home-making  cannot  be  a  success. 
Whether  this  needed  help  shall  be  hired  labor  or 
the  establishment  of  labor-saving  conditions  in 
the  home  is  one  of  the  questions  of  the  day. 

Fortunately,  perhaps,  the  question  of  personal 
help,  in  the  usual  unskilled  way  in  which  it  has 
been  accepted,  is  becoming  a  problem  of  the  past. 
If  one  is  big  enough  to  look  at  it  in  a  big  way, 
surely  this  is  all  for  the  best.  Varying  statistics 
3 


3d         FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

have  shown  that  formerly  only  from  twelve  to 
eight  per  cent,  of  the  families  in  the  United 
States  attempted  to  keep  " hired  help."  More 
recent  figuring  has  brought  the  percentage  down 
as  low  as  six  per  cent.  What  difficulties  face  that 
remaining  six  per  cent,  most  of  us  know,  if  not 
from  actual  experience,  at  least  from  what  we 
are  able  to  learn.  Changes  in  our  ideals  of  living, 
the  rightful  desire  of  all  women  to  be  free  and 
independent  human  beings,  the  Great  War,  have 
all  combined  to  bring  about  conditions  that  have 
almost  cut  off  the  source  of  supply  of  so-called 
hired  help. 

The  truly  business-like  housekeeper  of  to-day 
must  get  and  is  getting  the  needed  household 
help  largely  through  labor-saving  conditions  in 
the  home,  including  mechanical  labor-saving  de- 
vices. This  seems  not  only  the  most  reasonable 
procedure,  but,  cleverly  worked  out,  gives  the 
most  satisfactory  results  for  the  money  spent.1 
Where  still  more  help  may  be  needed  or  desired, 

1  The  chart  on  page  252  in  chap,  xii  will  give  one  an 
approximate  idea  of  how  a  sum  of  money  set  aside  for 
help  may  be  expended  in  securing  such  ideal  working 
conditions  that  personal  help  need  never  be  missed.  Add 
to  this  sum  the  expense  of  feeding,  also  damage  and  un- 
certainty costs  of  unskilled  labor,  and  a  considerable 
amount  of  money  would  be  in  hand  annually  for  convert- 
ing into  such  home  improvements  as  would  not  only  give 
the  needed  help,  but — since  permanent  equipment  fairly 
represents  capital  invested — would  automatically  increase 
one's  wealth. 


WHAT   WE    SHOULD    KNOW   31 

the  plan  of  employing  specialized,  professional 
service  by  the  hour  or  day,  based  on  the  eight- 
hour  labor  law,  is  meeting  with  success.  It  is  a 
plan  which  should  have  the  support  of  every 
broad-minded  man  and  woman  in  the  country. 

Although  so  many  departments  of  our  daily 
living  are  now  increasingly  provided  for  outside 
the  home,  this  food  and  feeding  problem,  with 
its  intricate  complications,  still  remains.  And  it 
is  a  problem,  apparently,  that,  for  the  best  good  to 
the  greatest  number,  must  be  solved  in  the  home. 

Fortunately,  food  and  household  authorities 
have  been  devoting  years  of  study  to  this  very 
problem  and  have  now  sane  standards  and  sound 
advice  available  to  all  who  may  wish  to  profit 
by  them.  If,  in  fitting  ourselves  with  this  new 
and  necessary  knowledge,  now  asked  of  us  in  the 
name  of  liberty  for  our  country  and  democracy 
for  the  world,  we  honestly  offer  our  best  and  most 
understanding  effort,  freedom  for  ourselves — 
that  end  which  is  the  cause  and  hope  of  every 
woman  movement  on  record — shall  be  our  reward. 

REFERENCES: 

For  help  in  organizing  home-making  and  house- 
keeping the  following  publications  are  recom- 
mended : 

Man  and  Woman,  Havelock  Ellis. 

"The  Economic  Function  of  Woman,"  Technical  Edu- 


32         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

cation  Bulletin,  Edward  T.  Devine,  Teachers  Col- 
lege, New  York,  N.  Y. 

A  History  of  the  Family  as  a  Social  and  Educational 
Institution,  Willys  tine  Goodsell. 

Household  Economics,  Helen  Campbell. 

The  Art  of  Right  Living,  Ellen  H.  Richards. 

Progress  in  the  Household,  Lucy  M.  Salmon. 

Woman  and  Labor,  Olive  Schreiner. 

The  Business  of  Being  a  Woman,  Ida  M.  Tarbell. 

Home  Problems  from  a  New  Standpoint,  Caroline  L.  Hunt. 

"Saving  Strength,"  by  E.  M.  Bishop  and  Martha  Van 
Rensselaer,  Cornell  Reading  Course,  Cornell  Uni- 
versity, Ithaca,  N.  Y. 

The  Woman  Who  Spends,  Bertha  J.  Richardson. 

The  Cost  of  Living,  Ellen  H.  Richards. 

The  Household  Budget,  John  B.  Leeds  (published  by 
John  B.  Leeds,  Germantown,  Philadelphia,  Pa.). 

"A  Survey  of  Your  Household  Finances,"  Technical 
Education  Bulletin,  Benjamin  R.  Andrews,  Ph.D., 
Teachers  College,  New  York,  N.  Y. 

Wanted — Young  Woman  to  Help  with  Housework,  C. 
Helene  Barker. 

Journal  of  Home  Economics,  published  monthly  by  the 
American  Home  Economics  Association,  Baltimore, 
Md. 

Note. — This  periodical,  in  addition  to  valuable  articles 
covering  every  phase  of  the  food  and  home-making 
problem,  contains,  each  month,  a  bibliography  of 
new  publications  and  current  periodical  literature 
dealing  with  food  and  home  economics.  By  follow- 
ing this  bibliography  it  is  possible  to  keep  abreast 
of  the  times  in  the  food  and  home-making  world. 

The  Foundation   of  National   Prosperity,   Ely,   Hess, 

Leith,  and  Carver. 
Note. — This  volume  contains  interesting  chapters  and 
paragraphs  of  definite  value  to  the  home-maker. 


WHAT    WE    SHOULD    KNOW    33 

For  additional  help  consult  and  keep  in  touch 
with  the  home  economic  publications  and  food 
bulletins  issued  by: 

The  State  Agricultural  Colleges. 

The  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  Wash- 
ington, D.  C. 

The  United  States  Food  Administration,  Washington, 
D.  C. 

Woman's  Committee,  Council  of  National  Defense, 
Washington,  D.  C. 

The  United  States  Bureau  of  Education,  Department 
of  the  Interior,  Washington,  D.  C. 

Note. — Education  for  the  Home,  parts  i,  ii,  iii,  and  iv, 
by  Benjamin  R.  Andrews,  Ph.D.,  published  by  the 
United  States  Bureau  of  Education,  contains  a  very 
comprehensive  survey  of  the  whole  subject  of  Home 
Economics,  its  development  and  progress,  with  a 
list  of  colleges  and  universities  in  the  United  States 
teaching  Home  Economics  and  related  subjects; 
part  iv  contains  a  very  complete  list  of  references  on 
Education  for  the  Home,  including  standard  books, 
periodicals,  and  syllabuses,  with  a  list  of  cities  and 
towns  in  the  United  States  in  which  Home  Eco- 
nomics or  Household  Arts  is  taught. 

See  also  references  listed  in  subsequent  chapters, 
particularly  Chapters  VII,  VIII,  and  XI. 


IV 


THE    WORLD   ON   A   DIET 

But  what  of  that,  where,  down  the  roll, 

Each  has  the  chance  to  prove,  at  par, 
The  steel-shod  manhood  of  his  soul 

Against  whatever  odds  there  are; 
The  chance  to  suffer — and  to  grow — 

That  some  day,  when  the  flags  are  furled, 
The  children  of  to-day  may  know 

A  finer  and  a  better  world. 
— Grantland  Rice,  from  "  191 8 — The  Soldier." 

UT  a  ready,  reasonable  grasp  of  the 
food  knowledge  outlined,  and  its  prac- 
tical application  to  the  life  of  the  home, 
is  not  yet  the  end  of  our  food  problem. 
There  is  one  more  milestone  to  be  reached  and 
passed.  And  every  law  of  self-preservation  and 
humanity  demands  this  final  effort.  All  the  food 
knowledge  we  can  master  must  now  be  wisely 
and  profitably  applied  to  the  very  special  national 
and  world  food  conditions,  food  needs,  and  food 
possibilities  as  they  exist  at  present.  This  calls 
for  judgment,   foresight,   self-denial,  the  widest 


THE    WORLD    ON   A    DIET      35 

kind  of  vision,  the  truest  patriotism  as  well  as 
scientific  knowledge  in  the  selection  and  use  of 
whatever  food  we  may  be  entitled  to. 

In  the  original  scheme  of  primitive  living, 
eating  was  very  simple.  Nature  supplied  a  limited 
variety  of  needed  foods,  and  gave  to  man  the 
instinct  to  choose  the  proper  one  at  the  proper 
time.  But  with  progress  came  many  changes  in 
our  ideals  and  methods  of  living.  The  twentieth 
century,  particularly,  opened  new  possibilities, 
created  new  needs,  provided  many  and  varied 
means  of  satisfying  those  needs — all  with  a  con- 
sequent effect  on  our  food-supply,  and  in  our 
attitude  toward  that  supply.  Improvements  in 
agriculture,  increased  transportation  facilities,  de- 
velopments in  the  science  of  food  preservation, 
the  practical  application  of  chemistry  and  bac- 
teriology to  food  materials,  gave  us  a  bewildering 
choice  of  foods.  Wherever  we  lived,  whatever 
food  the  world  could  grow  was  ours.  Foods 
never  known  or  grown  before  became  common. 
The  package  with  the  label  was  created.  Out- 
of-season  foods,  new  foods,  predigested  foods, 
concentrated  foods,  specially  prepared  foods, 
ready-to-eat  foods  were  pressed  upon  us.  We 
were  tempted  and  pampered  at  every  turn. 

Out  of  this  abundance  came  confusion,  lack 
of  appreciation,  extravagance,  over-indulgence, 
waste.     Our  instinct  deserted  us;    we  had  no 


36         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

knowledge  of  food  values  to  take  its  place.  We 
ate  what  we  wanted  rather  than  what  the  body 
needed.  We  spent  a  dollar  to  satisfy  a  craving 
that  was  not  normal,  when  a  penny  might  have 
bought  the  honest  nourishment  required.  We 
ate  more  food,  and  had  more  meals  than  we 
needed.  More  money  was  spent  on  food  than 
any  real  need  could  fairly  justify. 

And  so  we  were  living  when  the  Great  War 
came  and  stopped  us.  We  have,  suddenly  and 
almost  without  Warning,  been  forced  to  think, 
and  must  now  change  our  ways.  The  world  must 
go  on  a  diet,  and  unless  this  diet  is  observed  the 
strength  and  freedom  of  the  world  are  at  stake. 

Briefly  reviewed,  conditions  are  as  follows: 

With  the  exception  of  the  United  States,  the 
world  is  short  of  food.  Even  the  United  States 
is  short  of  some  foods,  although  it  has  its  normal 
supply,  even  an  abundance  of  other  foods. 

Out  of  this  supply  the  United  States  must  feed 
not  only  its  own  people,  but  those  in  other  parts 
of  the  world  who  have  given  their  all  for  liberty 
and  our  protection,  and  are  now  dependent 
upon  us. 

Conditions  require  that  all  foodstuffs  exported 
shall  be  of  the  most  concentrated  kind.  This 
includes  wheat,  beef,  mutton,  pork  products,  fat, 
dairy  foods,  sugar.  But  these  important  staples 
are  the  very  foods  of  which  the  United  States 


THE    WORLD   ON   A    DIET     37 

is  also  short.  Moreover,  these  are  the  very 
foods  which  have  for  years  formed  the  founda- 
tion of  our  daily  meals. 

To  spare  these  foods,  to  make  them  meet  our 
own  needs  as  well  as  the  needs  of  those  who  are 
dependent  upon  us,  we  must  eat  less  than  our 
normal  supply,  waste  not  one  particle,  and  make 
up  what  may  be  lacking  in  these  staples  by  sub- 
stituting other  foods  which  we  have  in  greater 
abundance,  and  which  are  not  desirable  for  ship- 
ping. 

And,  last  but  not  least,  this  stretching  and  divi- 
sion of  our  staple  food-supply  must  be  done 
without  injuring  the  health  or  reducing  the 
strength  or  vitality  of  the  American  people. 

And  here  is  where  we,  the  housekeepers  of 
America,  must  make  our  final  great  effort.  We 
have  been  asked  to  make  this  great  obligation,  on 
the  part  of  our  country,  possible  and  practical.  It 
can  and  must  be  made  possible  and  practical  by : 

1.    Eliminating  all  food  waste;  this  means: 

Careful  planning  of  daily  menus. 
Calculated  buying  of  all  food. 
Proper  care  of  food  in  the  home. 
Pood  preparation  without  waste. 
Good  cooking  without  spoiling  food,  or  loss  of 
food  value. 

Attractive    service    without    unnecessary   abun- 
dance. 
Vse  of  all  left-over  foods. 


38         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

"Food  waste  is  the  greatest  of  all  wastes,  be- 
cause it  occurs  three  times  a  day,  year  in  and  year 
out."  1 

"It  is  the  multiplication  of  minute  quantities — 
teaspoonfuls,  slices,  scraps — by  100,000,000,  and 
by  365  days  that  will  save  the  world."  2 

It  is  the  housekeeper  who  largely  controls  these 
minute  quantities,  and  can  save  them  for  that 
multiplication  which  can  do  so  much. 

One  slice  of  bread  wasted  every  day  in  every 
home  in  the  United  States  equals  over  7,000,000 
bushels  of  wheat  in  a  year,  or  365,000,000  loaves 
of  bread. 

One  half -cupful  of  milk  wasted  every  day  in  every 
home  in  the  United  States  equals  912,500,000 
quarts  in  a  year. 

One  small  butter-ball  wasted  every  day  in  every 
home  in  the  United  States  equals  over  114,- 
000,000  pounds  in  a  year. 

One  small  left-over  scrap  of  meat  wasted  every 
day  in  every  home  of  the  United  States  equals 
450,000,000  pounds  of  valuable  animal  food  in 
a  year — the  edible  portion  of  a  combined  herd 
of  538,000  beef  animals,  291,000  calves,  625,000 
sheep  and  lambs,  and  over  2,132,000  hogs.3 

Why  not  change  this  waste  into  production? 

1  Arthur  Train,  in  "The  Earthquake." 

2  Herbert  Hoover,  in  "Food  Armies  of  Liberty." 

3  United   States  Department  of  Agriculture,   Reports, 
May,  1 917. 


THE    WORLD   ON   A    DIET     39 

2.  Substituting  foods  which  we  may  have  in  abundance 
for  staple  foods  needed  and  fitted  for  export;  this 
means: 

Sparing  wheat:  By  substituting  corn,  rye,  oats, 
barley,  rice,  buckwheat — even  potatoes,  bananas, 
peanuts,  chestnuts. 

Sparing  beef,  mutton,  pork:  By  substituting  poultry, 
game,  fish,  eggs,,  beans,  cheese,  nuts. 

Sparing  sugar:  By  substituting  syrups,  honey, 
dried  fruits,  sweet  fruits,  by  providing  less  cake 
and  pastry,  fewer  confections  and  sweet  drinks. 

Sparing  fats:  By  using  less  fat  in  cooking,  and  not 
serving  fried  foods,  rich  cakes,  or  pastry. 

Sparing  dairy  products:  By  buying  milk  with 
judgment,  using  it  with  care,  and  recognizing  its 
full  food  value;  by  using  all  sour  and  skim  milk; 
by  using  less  cream  and  none  as  a  luxury;  by 
using  no  butter  in  cooking,  and  substituting 
vegetable  fats. 
-  Sparing  all  needed  staple  foods:  By  using  fresh 
fruits,  vegetables,  and  all  perishable  and  local 
foods  to  the  best  possible  advantage.1 

Wheat  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  all  the  foods 
to  spare.  If  we  are  fortunate  enough  to  have  a 
barrel  or  bag  of  wheat  flour  in  the  house,  it  should 
be  made  to  last  as  long  as  possible  by  using  it  in 
combination  with  a  definite  proportion  of  other 
cereal,  meal,  or  flour.  Without  privation  or  hurt  of 
any  kind,  we  can  substitute  in  this  way  when  baking 
any  of  our  necessary  bread  foods,  or  when  serving 
cereals  in  any  form.    Only  a  cupful  saved  here  and 

1  See  "  Fresh  Fruits  and  Vegetables  as  Conservers  of 
Other  Food,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  817,  United  States  De- 
partment of  Agriculture. 


4o         FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

there,  in  each  one  of  our  twenty-two  million  homes, 
providing  the  practice  becomes  a  habit,  soon  meas- 
ures many  million  bushels. 

3.    Preserving  all  surplus  perishable  food  against  future 
need;  this  means: 

Canning. 

Drying. 

Storing. 

Much  food  waste  can  be  prevented  by  preparing 
ourselves  to  be  "  ready  to  can,  preserve,  dry,  pickle, 
salt,  or  store"  all  surplus  fruits  and  vegetables,  or 
other  perishable  food  that  might  otherwise  go  to 
waste. 

When  the  Food  Administration  made  its  first 
great  appeal  in  the  fall  of  19 17,  twelve  million 
housekeepers  signed  the  food  pledge  cards  and 
entered  volunteer  food  service.  With  an  average 
of  three  to  five  persons  to  a  family,  this  means 
that  in  a  few  months'  time  forty-eight  million  of 
our  population  had  very  decidedly  changed 
their  food  habits  of  a  lifetime.  As  time  passes, 
this  number  will,  without  a  doubt,  be  greatly 
increased,  for  it  is  now  estimated  that  it  may 
be  many  years  before  the  ruin  in  Europe  can  be 
repaired  and  order  and  normal  living  once  again 
restored.  During  these  years  thrift,  conservation, 
and  the  "wise  and  careful' '  use  of  wheat,  meat, 
butter,  milk,  sugar  must  continue  to  be  the  con- 
sistent refrain  of  our  food  creed. 


THE   WORLD   ON   A    DIET     41 

This  will  mean  that  in  the  great  majority  of 
homes  in  the  United  States,  in  place  of  fine  white 
bread  and  rolls  and  the  customary  cakes  and 
pastry,  coarser  breadstuffs — made  from  whole 
wheat,  corn,  oats,  rye,  barley,  rice,  buckwheat  in 
various  interesting  combinations — will  be  sub- 
stituted. 

It  will  mean  that  in  these  new  breads  and 
cakes,  butter — the  customary  shortening — will  no 
longer  be  used,  but  that  other  fats  will  be  sub- 
stituted— not  only  drippings,  suet,  chicken  fat,  but 
cottonseed,  corn  and  nut  oils  of  many  varieties. 

It  will  mean,  too,  that  instead  of  eating  these 
different  breads  spread  with  butter,  butter  will 
be  spared  occasionally,  perhaps  frequently,  and 
peanut  butter,  syrup  or  honey  or  jam  used  in  its 
place. 

It  will  mean,  further,  that  instead  of  the  con- 
ventional roast  beef,  mutton,  or  pork  for  dinner, 
we  will  serve  beans,  combination  cheese  and 
cereal  dishes,  local  game,  poultry,  fish,  eggs. 

It  will  mean  fewer  cakes,  puddings,  less  pastry; 
it  will  mean  more  dates  and  figs  and  raisins  and 
less  sugar  in  whatever  cakes  and  puddings  are 
served;  it  will  mean  no  icing  on  the  cakes;  it 
will  mean  that  the  use  of  fresh  fruits  and  vege- 
tables of  all  kinds  will  be  greatly  increased. 

It  will  mean,  moreover,  individual  appetite 
control.    "Food  conservation  is  a  long,  hard  pull 


42        FOOD   AND   FREEDOM 

every  day,  at  every  meal,  for  months  at  a  time 
« — possibly  for  years."  While  the  Food  Adminis- 
tration is  trying  to  "adjust  the  food-supply  to  the 
world's  appetite/  ■  as  far  as  the  one  hundred  and 
ten  million  people  of  the  United  States  are  them- 
selves concerned,  however,  each  must  adjust  his 
appetite  to  the  world's  food-supply,  or  the  other 
adjustment  will  not  work. 

Surely  we  shall  live,  doubtless  for  some  time, 
very  differently  in  many  ways  than  we  did  before 
the  Great  War  came.  In  our  patriotic  enthusi- 
asm, however,  we  must  not  forget  that "  the  proper 
nourishment  of  every  member  of  our  family  is 
our  first  duty,"  and  that  unless  all  these  dietary 
changes  are  met  with  wisdom  the  desired  end 
shall  not  be  attained.  We  must  not  neglect  to 
ask  to  what  extent  certain  of  these  newer  or 
different  foods  may  be  identical  in  nourishment 
with  the  original  foods  replaced.  We  must  select 
and  buy  and  prepare  these  different  foods  with 
judgment;  we  must  plan  our  menus  intelligently, 
so  that,  if  a  certain  food  must  be  omitted,  some- 
thing equivalent  in  food  value  is  taking  its  place. 
Fortunately,  in  the  majority  of  substitutes  offered 
or  available  there  is  little  chance  for  trouble. 
The  Food  Administration  has  thrashed  the  prob- 
lem out  too  thoroughly  for  that;  the  normal  food 
wealth  of  the  United  States  offers  a  too  safely 
flexible  dietary. 


THE    WORLD    ON   A    DIET 


43 


"Oats,  rye,  barley,  cornmeal,  or  other  cereals 
give  bread  an  equal  or  even  greater  food  value 
than  all  wheat."  *  Pure  honey,  maple  sugar,  and 
reliable  syrups  can  supply  the  energy  value  more 
normally  obtained  from  butter,  while  the  sparing 
of  sugar  in  other  ways  more  or  less  automatically 
controls  any  excess  use  of  sweets  in  the  diet. 
Fish,  eggs,  and  poultry  are  all  normal  substitutes 
for  beef,  mutton,  or  pork;  beans,  nut  and  cheese 
dishes,  properly  prepared,  understanding^  served, 
and  wisely  combined  with  other  foods,  afford  a 
wholesome  and  welcome  change  in  the  diet.  The 
freer  use  of  fruits  and  vegetables  is  always  a 
blessing. 

The  question  of  fat  substitutes  offers,  on  the 
other  hand,  a  somewhat  more  complicated  prob- 
lem. The  peculiar  or  subtle  difference  in  com- 
position between  vegetable  fats  and  some  of  the 
fats  of  animal  origin,  more  particularly  the  sig- 
nificant dietary  importance  of  butter  fat,  is  some- 
thing that  demands  attention,  especially  in  the 
homes  where  there  are  children: 

"Associated  with  fat  in  certain  food  materials, 
especially  in  the  fat  of  milk  and  eggs,  are  minute 
quantities  of  recently  discovered  and  as  yet  un- 
named substances  most  important  in  nutrition. 
These  are  sometimes  referred  to  as  'growth 
determinants.'     We  do  not  know  yet  exactly 

1  United  States  Food  Administration. 


44         FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

how  much  of  these  substances  is  found  in  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  fat,  or  how  much  is  needed  by 
children  or  adults,  but  it  is  now  impossible  to 
consider  the  question  of  fat  in  the  diet  without 
considering  them.  Conditions  in  the  warring 
nations  of  Europe,  where  the  fat  ration  has  been 
cut  to  the  lowest  limit,  have  shown  that  such 
a  practice  hinders  the  normal  growth  of  children, 
the  maintenance  of  health  in  adults,  and  the 
repair  of  body  tissue  after  wounds.",1 

"The  appeal  of  the  Food  Administration  to 
reduce  the  use  of  fats  is  of  serious  national  im- 
portance,' '  but  the  added  appeal,  "and  especially 
to  limit  butter  to  free  use  on  the  table  rather  than 
in  cooking/ '  is  of  equal  national  importance.  Let 
us  cut  out  all  the  butter  in  cooking  if  we  will  and 
should,  but  let  us  not  be  blind  in  our  patriotism 
or  sense  of  economy  and  omit  to  serve  butter  on 
the  table — unless  we  are  very  sure  that  the  ex- 
tremely necessary  food  elements  specifically  at- 
tributed to  and  normally  derived  from  butter 
fat  are  supplied  in  some  other  way.  Where  the 
quantity  of  butter  normally  served  at  table  is 
consistently  reduced,  milk,  cream,  cheese,  egg 
yolks,  and  the  green-leaf  vegetables  or  salad 
plants. should  be  freely  used. 

So  nationally  important,  in  fact,  is  this  whole 
question  of  fats,  both  economically  and    dieteti- 

141  Ten  Lessons  on  Food  Conservation,"  United  States 
Food  Administration. 


THE    WORLD    ON    A    DIET      45 

cally,  that  the  United  States  Food  Administra- 
tion issued  the  following,  shortly  after  it  was  first 
organized: 

"It  is  perhaps  well  to  understand  first  of  all  just 
which  fats  are  vegetable  fats  and  which  are  ani- 
mal fats.  Cream,  butter,  oleomargarine, lard,  beef 
and  bacon  drippings,  suet,  chicken  fat,  are  all  of 
animal  origin;  olive  oil,  cottonseed,  corn,  and 
nut  oils  are,  of  course,  of  vegetable  origin.  Oc- 
casionally one  finds  on  the  market  a  product 
which  is  a  combination  of  a  vegetable  and  animal 
fat.  The  housekeeper  should  learn  the  uses  of 
all  fats,  so  that  she  may  not  be  limited  when  any 
commonly  used  fat  has  gone  up  in  price  or  has 
been  put  on  the  list  of  those  foods  to  be  con- 
served." l 

Doctor  McCollum,  nutrition  authority  of  the 
United  States  Food  Administration,  added  the 
following  to  the  above  statement: 

"  Do  not  use  butter  for  cooking.  Do  not  demand 
solid  fats  for  frying.  Certain  of  the  oils,  particu- 
larly cottonseed  and  peanut  oil,  serve  practically 
as  well  as  do  the  high  melting  fats.  We  have  a 
much  greater  supply  of  oils  than  of  solid  fats. 
A  saving  in  this  direction  is  very  important. 
Milk  or  egg-yolk  fats  should  always  be  supplied 
in  the  diet  of  children,  for  they  contain  something 
which  is  indispensable  to  health  and  growth. 
This  element  is  not  present  in  fats  of  vegetable 
origin." 

1  United  States  Food  Administration  Bulletin. 
4 


46         FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

The  question  of  milk  is  also  most  important, 
and  its  use  and  conservation  should  not  be  con- 
fused or  misunderstood.  While  we  are  asked  to 
conserve  milk,  we  are  urged,  at  the  same  time, 
to  increase  its  use,  and  this  issue  is  sometimes 
perplexing.  Milk  is  one  of  our  most  valuable 
foods.  Its  use  insures  a  good  diet ;  it  saves  meat ; 
it  requires  no  cooking,  therefore  saves  fuel  and 
time.  Because  of  its  value,  even  when  compara- 
tively high  in  price,  it  is  a  cheap  food.  As  the 
Food  Administration  says: 

"  No  substitute  for  milk  as  a  food  has  ever  been 
found.  ...  Its  importance  in  the  diet  of  children 
under  ten  cannot  be  overestimated.  .  .  .  Experts 
say  that  every  child  under  six  years  should  have 
a  quart  of  whole  milk  every  day.  . . .  Whole  milk 
for  the  children  is  playing  safe;  no  matter  what 
the  price  we  cannot  afford  to  let  them  go  with- 
out it." 

More  specifically,  milk  contains  all  the  food 
principles,  in  some  proportion,  required  by  the 
body — balanced  proteins,  carbohydrates,  fat,  min- 
eral matter,  and  accessory  factors.  Quoting  again 
from  the  Food  Administration: 

Its  protein  is  most  adaptable  to  uses  by  the  body 
in  building  and  renewing  tissue. 

Its  sugar  is  easily  utilized  by  the  body. 


THE    WORLD    ON    A    DIET     47 

It  supplies  lime;  the  lime  salts,  which  are  abun- 
dant in  milk,  are  also  important  in  building  the 
body  and  keeping  it  in  good  condition;  there  is 
no  other  food  from  which  lime  salts  can  so  readily 
be  obtained;  it  would  take,  for  example,  &}£ 
eggs  to  provide  the  same  amount  of  calcium  as 
is  contained  in  one  glass  of  milk. 
Its  butter  fat,  because  of  its  "growth  determi- 
nants" (as  described  above), is  absolutely  neces- 
sary for  children,  and  probably  for  older  persons 
as  well. 


To  which  Doctor  McCollum  adds: 

"Milk  is  an  indispensable  article  of  the  diet  of 
any  people  who  wish  to  achieve.  .  .  .  Milk  is 
worth  much  more  than  its  energy  value  or  its 
protein  content  would  indicate.  It  is  the  great 
factor  of  safety  in  making  good  the  deficiencies 
of  the  grains  which  form  and  must  continue  to 
form  the  principal  source  of  energy  in  our  diet. 
Without  the  continued  use  of  milk,  not  only  for 
the  feeding  of  our  children,  but  in  liberal  amounts 
in  cookery  and  as  an  adjuvant  to  our  diet,  we 
cannot  as  a  nation  maintain  the  position  as  a 
world  power  to  which  we  have  arisen.  The 
keeping  of  dairy  animals  was  the  greatest  factor 
in  the  history  of  the  development  of  man  from 
a  state  of  barbarism.  We  are  now  in  a  critical 
time  when  the  dairy  industry  is  in  jeopardy.  I 
feel  it  my  privilege  to  point  out  that  we  are  still 
dependent  upon  the  dairy  industry  for  our  con- 
tinued prosperity.,, — From  Brader's  Gazette,  De- 
cember, 191 7. 


48         FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

In  order  that  we  shall  continue  to  have,  there- 
fore, this  very  essential  milk  to  meet  our  abso- 
lute needs,  in  order  that  the  number  of  our  herds 
— which  very  truly  represent  the  strength  of  a 
country — shall  not  be  decreased,  the  demand  for 
milk  as  a  food  must  be  increased.  The  dairyman 
must  be  encouraged,  milk  production  must  be 
stimulated  by  increased  use.  Because  of  the  im- 
mediate actual  milk  shortage,  however,  this  in- 
creased demand  for  milk  must  be  accomplished 
without  waste,  or  careless  or  unfair  use.  The 
subtle  complication  is  apparent,  and  can  only 
be  unraveled,  step  by  step,  somewhat  as  follows: 

"Milk  consumption  in  the  United  States  should 
not  fall  below  one  pint  of  milk  per  capita  per 
day." x  From  one  pint  to  one  quart  of  whole  milk 
a  day  for  each  child,  and  from  one-half  to  one 
pint  for  each  adult  is  a  wise  allowance.  A  gen- 
eral demand  for  this  amount  would  react  favor- 
ably on  the  dairying  business. 

At  the  present  time,  however,  with  our  popu- 
lation of  over  100,000,000,  "we  produce  only 
39>354>i  16,300  quarts  of  milk  a  year.  Of  this 
4.3  per  cent,  must  go  to  feed  calves,  while  6.6 
per  cent,  is  used  for  the  manufacture  of  ice- 
cream and  condensed  milk.  89.1  per  cent,  is 
left  for  butter,  cheese,  and  consumption  in 
fluid  form.  This  gives  each  of  us  not  more  than 
350  quarts  of  milk  a  year,"  or  one  quart  a  day 
1  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  The  Food  Problem. 


THE    WORLD    ON    A    DIET     49 

for  everything — butter,  cheese,  whatever  milk  is 
used  as  milk,  as  well  as  the  butter  we  must  ex- 
port. This  at  best  means  only  one-half  pound 
of  butter  apiece  a  week,  a  limited  use  of  cream, 
and  no  milk  wasted,  if  there  is  to  be  enough 
whole  milk  left,  in  fluid  form,  for  the  children. 

Until  our  milk  equilibrium  can  be  restored,  there- 
fore, and  while  we  must  keep  in  mind  increased 
consumption  in  order  to  encourage  the  producer 
a  fair  division  of  whatever  milk  is  immedi- 
ately available  must  be  made,  every  drop  of 
milk  must  be  used  to  advantage,  and  all  chil- 
dren— particularly  those  under  six  years — 
should  be  protected,  and  receive  their  needed 
and  just  measure  of  unskimmed  milk.  It  is  to 
insure  this  that  we  have  been  asked  by  the  Food 
Administration  to  refrain  from  the  use  of  butter 
in  cooking,  and  cream  as  a  luxury — unless,  of 
course,  a  fortunate  and  abundant  local  or  per- 
sonal supply  might  otherwise  justify  its  use. 
Butter  for  cooking,  and  cream  merely  to  gratify 
the  palate  are  unessential,  and  should  not  be 
used  at  the  cost  of  table  butter  for  another, 
or  whole  milk  for  a  child.  These  are  essential 
— and  cannot  go. 

"Conservation  as  an  economic  and  political 
term  has  come  to  mean  the  preservation  of  our 
natural  resources  for  economical  use,  so  as  to 
secure  the  greatest  good  to  the  greatest  number." l 
Conservation  of  milk  means  to  use  it,  but  to  use 
it  with  judgment. 

1  Ex-President  Taft. 


So         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

The  discipline,  as  well  as  food  economy  and 
education  resulting  from  our  living  by  the  pledge, 
must  show  itself  in  greater  national  strength,  in 
less  narrow  methods  of  living,  in  the  years  to 
come.  And  if,  in  this  final  effort,  we,  once  more, 
honestly  offer  our  best  and  most  understanding 
service,  then,  hopefully,  not  only  freedom  for 
ourselves,  but  a  new  and  stronger  world  freedom, 
shall  be  the  great  reward. 

REFERENCES: 

The  Food  Problem,  Kellogg  and  Taylor. 

"Ten  Lessons  on  Food  Conservation/ *  Bulletin,  United 
States  Food  Administration. 

Bulletin  No.  6,  United  States  Food  Administration. 

"What  Food  Control  Really  Means,"  James  H.  Col- 
lins, special  paper,  United  States  Food  Adminis- 
tration. 

"The  World's  Food,"  Annals  of  the  American  Academy 
of  Political  and  Social  Science,  November,  191 7. 

Changes  in  the  Food  Supply,  and  Their  Relation  to 
Nutrition,  Lafayette  B.  Mendel. 

Food  Industries,  Vulte  and  Vanderbilt. 

Food  Thrift  Series,  United  States  Department  of  Agri- 
culture. 

Farmers'  Food  Bulletins,  United  States  Department 
of  Agriculture: 
"Use  of  Corn,   Kafir,   Cowpeas  in  the  Home," 

Farmers'  Bulletin  559. 
"Cornmeal  as  a  Food,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  565. 
"Honey  and  Its  Use  in  the  Home,"  Farmers'  Bul- 
letin 653, 


THE    WORLD    ON    A    DIET      51 

"Fats  and  Their  Economical  Use,"  Farmers'  Bul- 
letin 469. 
"Economical  Use  of  Meat  in  the  Home,"  Farmers' 

Bulletin  391. 
"Cheese:  Economical  Uses  in  the  Diet,"  Farmers' 

Bulletin  487. 
"Care  of  Food  in  the  Home,"  Farmers'  Bulletin 
375. 
Note. — The  above,  as  well  as  other  valuable  bulletins  on 
food  and  food  conservation,  may  be  obtained  free  of 
cost,  or  for  a  nominal  sum,  by  addressing  the  Chief 
of  the  Division  of  Publications,  or  the  Superintendent 
of  Documents  at  the  Government  Printing  Office, 
United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  Washing- 
ton, D.  C. 

Weekly  News  Letter,  United  States  Department  of 

Agriculture. 
Journal  of  the  American  Medical  Association. 

(Current  articles.) 
Food  Bulletins,  United  States  Food  Administration.* 

Note. — Emergency  information  in  connection  with  food 
and  food  conservation,  as  well  as  a  bibliography  of  all 
new  publications  covering  food,  food  conservation, 
and  food  needs  of  the  world,  may  be  obtained  by 
addressing  the  United  States  Food  Administration, 
Washington,  D.  C. 

"Supplementing  Our  Meat  Supply  with  Fish,"  Bureau 
of  Chemistry,  United  States  Department  of  Agri- 
culture, Washington,  D.  C. 

Also  Special    Bulletins  — •" The   Bowfin,"  "Tilefish," 
"Sea  Mussels,"  etc.,  Bureau  of  Fisheries,  Depart- 
ment of  Commerce,  Washington,  D.  C. 
See  also  references  listed  at  close  of  Chapters  III 

andX. 


IMPORTANT    FOOD    FACTS 
\ 

What  Food   Is  : 

Primarily,  food  is  that  which  nourishes  the  body, 
keeping  it  alive. 

"Life  consists  of  a  series  of  changes  in  the  pro- 
toplasm— the  birth,  growth,  and  death  of  cells  fol- 
lowing each  other  in  an  interminable  cycle.  The 
processes  of  life  can  only  go  on  when  the  cells  are 
supplied  with  a  well-balanced  food  suitable  for 
their  needs.' ' J 

What  Food  Does  : 

The  body  is  composed  of  a  number  of  chemical  ele- 
ments— carbon,  hydrogen,  oxygen,  nitrogen,  sul- 
phur, phosphorus,  chlorine,  sodium,  potassium, 
calcium,  magnesium,  iron,  and  traces  of  others. 
These  elements  are  present  in  the  body  in  approxi- 
mately definite,  relative  amounts,  forming  certain 
chemical  combinations  that  enter  into  the  tissues 
and  fluids  of  the  body,  and  constitute  the  body 
substance.2 

1  William  Tibbies,  Food  in  Health  and  Disease,  Preface, 
p.  v. 

2  See  Sherman,  Chemistry  of  Food  and  Nutrition,  chap.  x. 


IMPORTANT    FOOD    FACTS    53 

In  order  that  the  life  and  activities  and  health  of 
the  body  can  be  continued  and  maintained,  these 
elements,  in  the  required  relative  amounts,  so  as 
to  insure  the  proper  balance  of  the  chemical  com- 
pounds, must  be  preserved. 

During  the  normal  processes  of  life  and  living, 
however,  these  elements  are  continually  spent,  or 
lost,  or  used  in  some  way,  and  must  be  replaced  as 
they  are  needed,  or  the  health  of  the  body  suffers 
and  its  activities  and  life  will  cease. 

It  is  the  mission  of  food  to  supply  these  elements 
as  they  may  be  required,  and  in  such  form  as  the 
body  can  use  to  advantage;  the  nutritive  value 
of  a  food  is  measured  by  its  ability  to  fulfil  this 
mission. 

To  simplify  the  more  or  less  complex  relationship 
existing  between  the  body  and  its  food,  food  scien- 
tists compare  the  living  body  to  a  working  engine 
or  machine,  although  the  human  engine  is  far 
more  perfect,  ingenious,  self-contained,  and  self- 
sustaining  than  any  mechanical  engine.1 

In  order  to  live: 

1.  The  body  must  continue  to  work,  and  a 
normal  body  temperature  must  be  main- 
tained. 

The  work  of  the  body  is  of  two  kinds: 
That  which  goes  on  continuously  and  in- 
voluntarily inside  the  body,  such  as  the 
action  of  the  heart,  lungs,  and  organs 
of  digestion;  that  which  the  body  does 
1  Credit  References  listed  on  page  73. 


54         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

voluntarily,  any  form  of  muscular  ef- 
fort or  exercise,  such  as  walking,  wash- 
ing, playing — in  other  words,  "doing 
things."  Body  heat  or  temperature  is 
largely  a  result,  or  a  left-over  product, 
of  the  work  done  by  the  body. 

2.  The  body  structure  must  be  kept  sound 
and  in  repair. 

3.  The  body  functions  must  be  properly 
regulated. 

Food  must  serve  these  three  great  needs;  the  body 
requires,  therefore: 

1.  Food  for  fuel ,  or  as  a  source  of  energy  or 
power  to  keep  the  body  working,  and  of 
the  required  normal  temperature — just 
as  any  engine  or  motor,  whether  steam  or 
gasolene  or  electric,  requires  fuel  of  some 
kind  to  make  it  operate. 

2.  Food  for  body  growth  and  repair — just  as 
any  engine  requires  basic  material  for  its 
construction  and  repair. 

3 .  Food  for  body  regulation — just  as  any  en- 
gine requires  lubrication,  special  adjust- 
ment, and  control. 

In  order  to  keep  the  body  working  properly  and 
in  good  condition  it  is  important  that  the  food 
should  be  right  in  kind  and  quantity,  just  as  any 
other  type  of  engine  requires  its  particular  fuel  in 
the  right  quantity,  as  well  as  proper  materials  for 
construction,  repair,  and  regulation. 


IMPORTANT    FOOD    FACTS    55 

Technically,  in  the  food  consumed,  the  body  must 
find: 

1.  Elements  which  it  can  utilize  as  a  source 
of  energy. 

2.  Elements  which  it  can  utilize  as  building 
material. 

3.  Elements  which  it  can  utilize  for  regulat- 
ing purposes. 

Kinds  of  Food: 

But  these  elements  can  only  be  used  by  the  body 
"in  the  form  of  certain  definite  compounds,"1 
compounds  similar  to  those  materials  which  enter 
into  the  construction  of  the  body  itself.  These 
compounds  are  known  as 

Proteins. 

Fats. 

Carbohydrates. 

Ash  Constituents  (or  mineral  matter). 

Water. 

In  addition  to  these  essential  principles,  the  body 
also  requires 

Minute  but  significant  amounts  of  accessory 
factors,  of  which  as  yet  little  is  known  except 
that  they  are  definitely  needed  by  the  body 
to  sustain  life,  maintain  health,  and  promote 
growth.  There  are,  apparently,  different  kinds 
or  types  of  these  so-called  "accessory  factors," 
"vitamines,"  and  "growth  determinants,"  each 

1Rose,  Laboratory  Manual  of  Foods,  p.  I. 


56         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

serving  some  different  and  specific  purpose  in 
body  growth  and  regulation.1 

It  is  further  necessary  for  body  health  that 
these  food  principles  and  accessory  factors  be 
used  in  connection  with  some  bulk  or  indiges- 
tible " waste' '  material,  known  as  cellulose,  and 
popularly  spoken  of  as  "roughage."  Cellulose 
is  "the  material  which  composes  the  cell  walls 
and  wo6dy  fiber  of  plants."  Its  value  to  the 
body  is  largely  mechanical,  providing  normal 
stimulation  and  exercise  for  the  muscles  of  the 
intestines. 

Fortunately,  these  chemical  combinations  or  food 
principles,  as  well  as  the  accessory  substances 
and  bulk  material  required  by  the  body,  are  dis- 
tributed throughout  the  world,  in  both  plant 
and  animal  life,  in  the  form  of  our  commonly 
recognized  food  materials — grains,  meats,  milk, 
fruits,  vegetables.  There  we  find  ready-made 
by  nature,  all  the  foods,  combining  all  the  ele- 
ments properly  compounded,  which  the  body  re- 
quires, and  can  utilize  as  fuel,  building,  and  regu- 
lating materials.  They  are  all  there.  We  must 
choose  aright,  that  is  all. 

For  identification,  to  help  us  make  wise  selec- 
tions, foods  have  been  variously  classified, 
grouped,  and  named  by  food  authorities,  accord- 

1  See  L.  B.  Mendel,  Nutrition  and  Growth. 

Also,  Tibbies,  Food  in  Health  and  Disease,  chap,  xxiii. 

Also,  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  The  Food  Problem,  chaps,  v 
and  vi. 

Also  "Ten  Lessons  on  Food  Conservation,"  United 
States  Food  Administration,  Lesson  ix. 


IMPORTANT    FOOD    FACTS    57 

ing  to  their  chemical  composition  or  predomi- 
nating usefulness  to  the  body.    Thus  we  have: 


1.  "Fuel  Foods,"  which  include: 
Carbohydrates,  represented  by 

Sugars,  syrups,  honey,  jams  and  jellies, 
figs,  dates,  raisins,  dried  currants,  and 
starchy  foods  such  as  tapioca,  corn- 
starch, arrowroot,  potatoes,  bananas. 

Milk,  bread,  cereal  foods — such  as 
wheat  and  wheat  products,  corn,  rye, 
oats,  barley,  rice,  buckwheat,  dried 
lentils,  beans,  peas;  also  some  vege- 
tables containing  much  sugar,  such  as 
beets  and  old  carrots,  also  sweet  fruits, 
belong,  in  part,  to  this  class,  as  they 
contain  a  large  proportion  of  car- 
bohydrate material;  they  contain,  in 
addition,  however,  valuable  varying 
amounts  of  the  other  needed  materials. 

Fats,  represented  by 

Butter,  cream,  nut  oils  and  fats,  olive 
oil  and  other  vegetable  fats,  bacon  and 
other  meat  fats. 

Milk,  nuts,  fat  meats,  egg  yolks,  choco- 
late also  belong,  in  part,  to  this  class,  as 
they  contain  a  large  percentage  of  fat; 
they  also  contain,  however,  valuable 
varying  amounts  of  other  food  ma- 
terials. 


58         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Proteins,1  represented  by 

Lean  meats,  poultry  and  game,  fish, 
eggs,  cheese,  milk.  With  the  exception 
of  milk,  which  contains  only  $y2  per 
cent.,  these  foods  all  contain  a  large 
proportion  of  protein  material,  varying, 
approximately,  from  13  to  32  per  cent.; 
they  are  known  as  "balanced,"  "per- 
fect," or  "efficient"  proteins. 

Cereals,  breads,  dried  lentils,  peas  and 
beans,  nuts,  cocoa  also  belong,  in  part, 
to  this  class,  as  they  contain  a  definite, 
even  large,  percentage  of  protein  ma- 
terial; they  are  not  "complete"  pro- 
teins, however;  they  also  contain  valu- 
able varying  amounts  of  other  food 
materials. 

2.  "Building-foods,"  which  include: 

Proteins,  represented  by 

(as  listed  above). 

1  Since  protein  can  be  burned  in  the  body  to  yield 
energy,  it  must  be  classed  here  as  a  fuel  food,  although, 
because  of  its  importance  as  a  tissue-builder,  it  is  commonly 
considered  as  a  building-food  rather  than  as  a  fuel  food. 
While  proteins  do  serve  the  body  as  fuel,  they  are  not  re- 
quired by  the  body  for  fuel.  It  is  better  and  cheaper  for 
the  body  to  get  its  fuel  from  carbohydrates  and  fats,  and 
a  good  diet  is  so  arranged  that  protein  foods  are  used  chiefly 
for  building  purposes,  and  not  depended  upon  for  energy. 
If  more  protein  is  consumed  than  the  body  needs  for  build- 
ing and  repair,  this  excess  protein  is  destroyed,  leaving  un- 
desirable products  to  be  eliminated  in  the  urine  and  over- 
working the  kidneys. 


IMPORTANT   FOOD    FACTS    S9 

Ash  Constituents,  found  in 

Milk,  cereals  from  whole  grains,  egg 
yolks,  fresh  fruits,  green  vegetables, 
dried  lentils,  peas,  beans. 

3.  "Regulating-foods,"  which  include: 
Ash  Constituents,  found  in 
(as  listed  above). 

Accessory  Factors,  found  in 

Almost  all  fresh  foods— fresh  milk, 
fresh  meats,  fresh  fish,  cream,  butter, 
egg  yolks,  cheese,  fresh  fruits  and  vege- 
tables, green-leaf  vegetables  and  salad 
plants,  whole-grain  foods.  Different 
types  are  found  in  different  foods,  how- 
ever.1 

Bulk  Material,  represented  by 
Fruits,  vegetables,  coarse  cereal  foods, 
coarse  breads,  bran — including  some 
"hard"  foods;  the  latter  induce  masti- 
cation, which  both  aids  digestion  and 
helps  to  insure  sound  teeth. 

Water. 
While  water  is  not  specifically  a  "food," 
viewed  from  the  standpoint  of  nutrients 
for  the  body,  it  is  as  important  and  nec- 
essary as  food. 

"  Without  water  the  elements  could  not  be 
combined  into  an  organism,  nor  could  the 
organism  carry  out  its  physiological  June- 
1  See  References  listed  on  p.  56. 


60         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

tions.  It  forms  58.5  per  cent,  by  weight 
of  the  human  body.  The  daily  require- 
ment is  estimated  from  the  average 
loss  by  the  skin,  lungs,  and  kidneys, 
which  excrete  a  total  of  about  eighty 
ounces  a  day.  This  loss  must  be  made 
good  by  food  and  drink."  x 

Some  water  is  present  in  all  food.  In 
raw,  fresh-food  materials — meats,  eggs, 
milk,  fruits,  vegetables — it  varies  from 
55  to  95  per  cent.  In  prepared  foods 
— flour,  cereal  products,  crackers,  dry 
breads — it  averages,  approximately,  less 
than  10  per  cent.2 

For  all  foods,  as  we  know  them,  we  can  find  a 
place  in  the  above  accepted  groupings.  The  chemical 
composition  of  foods  varies  very  greatly,  however; 
some  foods — such  as  pure  sugar  or  pure  fat — con- 
tain only  one  of  the  needed  food  principles;  other 
foods — such  as  fresh,  whole  milk  or  cereal  products 
milled  from  whole  grains — contain  some  proportion 
of  all  the  needed  principles.  Consequently,  some 
foods  are  more  important  and  more  nutritively  valu- 
able than  other  foods.  This  is  particularly  true  of 
pure,  whole  milk  and  properly  milled  cereal  products. 
These  two  foods  together  are  particularly  valuable, 
as  they  complete  each  other  to  an  extent,  and  are 
therefore  of  such  importance  in  the  diet  of  children. 
"Milk  and  cereals  together  make  a  remarkable  com- 

1  Tibbies,  Food  in  Health  and  Disease,  p.  6. 

2  See  "Chemical  Composition  of  American  Food  Ma- 
terials,"  Bulletin  28,  United  States  Department  of  Agri- 
culture. 


IMPORTANT    FOOD    FACTS   61 

bination;  '  bread -and-milk'  is  justified  not  only  by 
experience,*  but  by  theory."  l 

The  value  of  proteins,  too,  must  be  understood. 
"All  proteins  are  made  up  of  complex  nitrogen 
products,  which  are  often  called  *  building-stones.' 
Some  proteins  contain  these  '  building-stones '  in 
proper  proportion  for  the  building  of  new  tissue. 
Others  lack  some  of  the  essential  'building-stones.' 
The  foods  containing  the  first  type  are  called  com- 
plete or  efficient  tissue-building  foods.  The  others 
are  known  as  incomplete  or  inefficient  tissue-building 
foods.  The  value  of  meats  in  the  diet  lies  in  the 
fact  that  they  belong  to  the  complete  type  of  protein 
foods,  and  therefore  when  used  liberally  the  necessity 
for  intelligent  choice  is  eliminated.  The  list  of  per- 
fect or  efficient  proteins  includes  beef,  veal,  mutton, 
lamb,  pork,  poultry,  game,  fish,  cheese,  milk,  eggs. 
The  inefficient  proteins,  those  which  need  supple- 
menting with  more  or  less  from  those  of  the  first 
group,  are  soy  beans,  peanuts,  navy  beans,  wax 
beans,  kidney  beans,  lima  beans,  dried  peas,  lentils, 
nuts,  corn,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  rye,  buckwheat.  For 
the  young  child,  the  youth,  and  any  one  recovering 
from  a  wasting  disease  there  must  be  combinations 
of  protein  foods  which  will  give  the  right  combina- 
tion of  'building-stones.'  For  the  young  child  milk 
stands  first  on  the  list.  For  the  adult,  the  need  for 
large  amounts  of  the  more  nearly  perfect  proteins 
is  not  apparent.  The  diet  of  adults  can  be  more 
easily  restricted  to  a  limited  use  of  the  first,  and  a 
liberal  use  of  the  second." 2 

1  Lafayette  B.  Mendel. 

2  "Ten  Lessons  on  Food  Conservation,"  United  States 
Food  Administration,  p.  26.  See,  also,  Kellogg  and  Taylor, 
The  Food  Problem,  chaps,  v,  vi,  vii. 

5 


62        FOOD   AND   FREEDOM 

Digestibility,  relish,  and  flavor  are  also  factors  ill 
the  value  of  a  food;  irrespective  of  its  composition, 
the  true  value  of  a  food  can  only  be  estimated  ac- 
cording to  the  completeness  with  which  it  serves  the 
body,  and  the  ease  and  completeness  with  which 
the  body  can  utilize  the  nutrients  it  holds. 

Good  and  bad  cooking  can  greatly  affect  the 
digestibility  and  wholesomeness  of  food;  a  food 
as  analyzed  by  the  food  chemist  may  be  one  prod- 
uct; as  cooked  and  served  on  the  table  it  can  be 
quite  another. 

Since  no  one  food  alone — with  the  exception  of  moth- 
er's milk  for  a  baby — contains  enough  of  each  re- 
quired food  element,  in  the  correct  proportions,  to 
properly  feed  the  body — to  serve  its  three  great 
needs — some  representative  of  every  group  or  class 
of  foods,  as  outlined  above,  must  be  included,  in 
some  form,  in  a  wholesome  diet  for  normal  people. 
Briefly  summarized,  to  properly  feed  the  body  a 
variety  of  foods — different  foods  at  different  meals, 
and  something  different  every  day,  is  desirable. 
"Food  fads"  are  unwise.  A  "narrow,"  "one- 
sided," or  "restricted"  diet  can  be  most  harmful. 

How  Much  Food  Is  Needed? 

In  the  early  days  of  living,  instinct  told  us  what 
and  when  and  how  much  to  choose.  But  with  civil- 
ized living  we  have  lost  some  of  our  instinct,  all 
conditions  of  living  have  become  more  complicated, 
and  knowledge  must  now  help  us  out  in  the  wise 
selection  of  our  food.  A  normal,  wholesome  appetite, 
under  control,  is  always  a  good  guide,  however,  as 
to  the  total  amount  of  food  required.    If,  in  addition, 


IMPORTANT   FOOD    FACTS   63 

the  importance  of  variety  is  observed,  the  proper 
balance  of  the  needed  elements  will  be  more  or  less 
automatically  supplied,  and  health,  happiness,  vi- 
tality, and  the  normal  body  weight  for  age  and  height 
result.1 

Where  such  conditions  as  this  exist,  and  the  food- 
supply  is  normal  and  adequate,  there  is  little  need 
to  worry  about  the  feeding  problem. 

To  insure  family  health,  however,  to  prevent  food 
waste,  for  purposes  of  economy,  or  in  cases  of  special 
food  need  or  any  emergency  calling  for  limited  or 
restricted  feeding,  it  is  of  very  great  advantage  to 
know  how  to  estimate  the  amount  of  nourishment 
required  by  an  individual,  for  a  day,  under  given 
conditions,  and  how  best  to  satisfy  that  need.  The 
present  world  food  and  feeding  problem  makes  in- 
telligent, balanced,  measured  feeding  not  only  a 
necessity,  but  a  duty  to  the  world,  neglect  of  which 
is  almost  crime. 

Just  how  much  total  nourishment  is  required,  just 
how  much  and  what  proportion  of  each  necessary 
element  should  be  represented  in  the  day's  food, 
depends  largely  on  the  age,  sex,  size  of  an  individual, 
the  amount  and  kind  of  work  to  be  accomplished  in 
a  day,  and  sometimes  climate,  and  individual  peculi- 
arities. 

As  a  rule,  the  larger  and  more  physically  active 
a  body  the  greater  the  food  requirement.  A  large 
man  or  woman,  doing  muscular  work,  requires 

1See  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  The  Food  Problem,  pp.  123, 
124. 


64         FOOD   AND   FREEDOM 

more  food  than  a  small  man  or  woman  who  is  not 
active.  Men  require  slightly  more  food  than 
women.  Growth  is  also  an  important  factor.  A 
child,  or  growing  boy  or  girl,  requires  more  food, 
in  proportion  to  body  weight,  than  a  fully  grown 
person.  As  age  increases,  and  body  activities  de- 
crease, less  food  is  needed. 

If  too  little  total  food  is  supplied,  or  too  little 
of  any  one  needed  kind,  the  body  suffers  from 
under-nourishment,  body  tissues  waste,  weight  is 
lost,  and  health  and  vitality  are  affected.  If  too 
much  total  food  is  supplied,  or  too  much  of  any 
one  kind,  the  body  suffers  from  over-nourishment, 
poisons  may  accumulate,  weight  may  increase  be- 
yond normal,  and  health  and  vitality  are  affected. 

Approximately,  almost  nine-tenths  of  the  total 
food  required  by  the  body  is  used  as  fuel;  the 
balance  is  used  for  body  construction  or  repair. 
These  two  requirements,  when  properly  satisfied 
by  means  of  the  necessary  variety  of  food,  carry 
with  them  the  special  ash  constituents  and  regu- 
lating factors  also  required. 

Since  the  chemical  composition  of  different  foods 
varies  greatly,  the  amount  of  total  food  required 
in  a  day — as  served  at  the  table— cannot  very  well 
be  measured  by  weight  or  bulk.  It  must  be  esti- 
mated, instead,  according  to  its  nutritive  value. 

The  amounts,  in  weight,  of  single  food  ma- 
terials— such  as  pure  protein,  pure  fat,  pure 
carbohydrate — desirable  for  an  adequate  diet, 
under  definite  conditions,  can,  however,  be  esti- 


IMPORTANT    FOOD    FACTS    65 

mated.      For    the    average    individual    these 
amounts  are,  approximately:  * 

Protein:  At  least  70  grams  (2.5  ounces) 

and  not  over  90  to  100  grams 
(2.8  to  3.5  ounces) — depend- 
ing upon  age  and  size. 

Fat:  Sixty  grams  (2.12  ounces)  is  a 

safe  standard. 

Carbohydrate:  While  the  total  amount  of  car- 
bohydrate (starch  and  sugar) 
depends  very  largely  on  phys- 
ical activity,  of  the  total 
amount  required,  however, 
from  1  to  3  ounces  is  a  liberal 
allowance  for  sugar. 

How  Food  Is  Measured: 

The  nutritive  value  of  food — that  is,  the  carbohy- 
drate, fat,  and  protein  elements — can  be  measured 
very  accurately  in  terms  of  the  energy  or  heat  it 
is  capable  of  liberating  in  the  body.  The  unit  of 
this  measure  is  named  a  Calorie. 

The  amount  of  heat  given  off  during  the  "  com- 
bustion' '  or  "oxidation"  of  food  is  a  measure  of 
the  energy  value  of  that  food.  Scientists  can 
measure  this  heat  very  accurately  by  burning  the 
food  in  a  specially  constructed  apparatus  called  a 
"calorimeter."   The  calorie  is  the  unit  of  measure. 

1  See  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  The  Food  Problem,  chaps,  v, 
vi,  vii. 

Also  "Ten  Lessons  on  Food  Conservation,"  Unitecj 
(States  Food  Administration,  p.  46, 


66         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

One  calorie  is  "about  equal  to  the  amount  of 
heat  required  to  raise  the  temperature  of  one  pound 
of  water  four  degrees  Fahrenheit." 

It  is  now  known  that  every  portion  or  pound  of  food 
contains  a  certain  number  of  calories  or  fuel  units, 
the  number  varying  according  to  the  chemical  com- 
position of  the  food.  The  number  of  calories  a 
given  portion  or  weight  of  food  contains  is  called  its 
"fuel  value,"  or  its  "calorie  value." 

Some  foods,  in  a  given  quantity,  are  capable  of 
liberating  much  energy,  and  contain,  therefore, 
many  calories;  they  are  said  to  be  high  in  fuel 
value,  and  are  called  concentrated  foods. 

Other  foods,  weight  for  weight,  do  not  liberate  as 
much  energy,  do  not,  therefore,  contain  as  many 
calories,  and  are  said  to  be  low  in  fuel  value;  they 
are  called  bulk  foods,  and  contain  a  large  propor- 
tion of  water  and  indigestible  matter. 

The  fuel  or  calorie  value  of  some  common  foods  is 
illustrated  as  follows: l 

i  pound  of  butter 3,605  calories 

1  pound  of  cheese,  American. 2,055 

1  pound  of  sugar 1,860 

1  pound  of  wheat  flour , .  1,660 

1  pound  of  lean  beef,  about 900 

1  pint  of  milk  (one  pound) 320 

2  medium  slices  bread 100 

1  See  Bulletin  28,  United  States  Department  of  Agricult- 
ure. 

Also,  Fisher  and  Fisk,  How  to  Live,  pp.  170-190. 
Also,  Rose,  Feeding  the  Family,  Appendix. 


IMPORTANT    FOOD    FACTS    67 

3  plain  crackers  (large) 100  calories 

1  banana 100  " 

1  tablespoonful  olive  oil 100  " 

1  head  lettuce  (large) 100  " 

1  cupful  orange  juice 100  " 

1  egg 75  " 

1  apple  or  pear 75  " 

It  is  also  known  that  the  body  requires  a  certain 
or  definite  number  of  calories  in  a  day,  and  that  this 
number  depends  largely  upon  age,  sex,  size,  and  mus- 
cular activity.    For  example,  approximately  figured : l 

Laborer — hardwork  4,000  to  6,000  calories  a  day 

Soldier's  ration.  .  .  .  3,500  to  4,500  "  " 

Farmer 3>5oo  to  4,000  "  " 

Business  man 2,500  to  3,000  "  " 

Active  woman 2,200  to  3,000  *  " 

"Boy  of  sixteen 2,600  to  3,200  "  " 

Girl  of  sixteen 2,300  to  2,800  "  " 

Child  of  four 1,400  about  "  " 

Seventy,  or  over  . . .  1,800  about  "  " 

The  calorie  requirement  of  an  individual  may  be 
very  fairly  estimated  according  to  age,  height, 
weight,  in  relation  to  the  day's  activity.  For  ex- 
ample, approximately  figured : 2 

The  calorie  requirement  of  an  individual  when 
sleeping  or  resting  is  12  calories  per  pound — 
normal  body  weight 8 — per  day. 

1  See   William   Tibbies,    Food  in  Health   and    Disease, 
chap.  iv. 

Also,  Graham  Lusk,  Basis  of  Nutrition,  chap.  ii. 
Also,  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  The  Food  Problem,  chaps,  v,  vi. 
Also,  Rose,  Feeding  the  Family,  chaps,  iii,  iv,  x,  xi,  xiv. 
» Ibid.  3  See  tables  on  p.  247. 


68         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

The  calorie  requirement  of  an  individual  doing 
light  work  is  16  or  17  calories  per  pound  per  day. 

The  calorie  requirement  of  an  individual  doing 
moderately  hard  work  is  18  to  20  calories  per  pound 
per  day. 

The  calorie  requirement  of  an  individual  doing 
hard,  muscular  work  is  20  to  23  calories  per  pound 
per  day. 

The  calorie  requirement  of  children  is  higher: l 

1  to  2  years  old ....  45-40  calories  per  pound 

3  to  5  years 40-35 

6  to  9  years 35-30        "  " 

10  to  13  years 30-25        "  " 

14  to  17  years 25-20        "  " 

Thus  to  estimate  the  calorie  requirement  of  an 
individual  simply  multiply  the  normal  body  weight 
by  the  required  number  of  calories,  according  to 
age  or  occupation.  For  example,  for  a  person 
doing  light  work  multiply  the  normal  body  weight 
by  16  or  17;  for  a  person  doing  hard  work,  by  22 
or  23 ;  for  a  child  of  three,  by  40,  etc. 

In  cases  of  overweight,  less  than  the  normal 
calorie  requirement  should  be  eaten;  this  is  most 
successfully  managed  by  eliminating  concentrated 
foods  of  high  calorie  value — butter,  sugar,  cream, 
etc. — and  substituting  bulk  foods  low  in  fuel 
value,  such  as  fruits  and  vegetables.  The  secret 
of  weight  reduction  is  to  eat  less  than  the  body 

1Rose,  "Some  Food  Facts"  Special  Bulletin,  Teachers 
College,  New  York,  N,  Y- 


IMPORTANT    FOOD    FACTS    69 

really  needs  for  its  day's  work;  in  this  way  some 
of  the  excess  food  stored  in  the  body  in  the  form 
of  fat  is  used.1 

In  cases  of  underweight,  more  than  the  normal 
requirement  should  be  eaten. l 

By  knowing  the  two  facts — the  calorie  value  of  any 
given  food  or  portion  of  food}  and  the  calorie  require- 
ment of  an  individual — it  is  comparatively  simple  to 
combine  them,  and  feed  very  accurately  according  to 
measure — should  need  require  it. 

The  mere  calorie  value  of  foods  must  not  be  con- 
fused, however,  with  the  complete  physiological  and 
nutritive  value.  The  kind  of  calories — whether  pro- 
tein, or  fat,  or  carbohydrate — is  as  important  as  the 
number.  All  should  be  represented  in  the  day's 
total  food,  and  they  should  be  so  assembled  from  a 
variety  of  foods  that  they  will  automatically  supply 
the  mineral  matter  or  ash  constituents  and  peculiarly 
important  accessory  factors  also  required,  but  which 
cannot  be  measured  in  calories. 

As  has  been  estimated,  in  a  good  diet  the  differ- 
ent food  materials  should  be  represented,  approxi- 
mately, as  follows: 2 

Protein 12  per  cent. 

Fat i 18      " 

Carbohydrate 68      " 

Mineral  matter 2 

1  For  a  clear  discussion,  see  Fisher  and  Fisk,  pp.  212-220. 

2  See  References  listed  at  the  close  of  this  chapter. 
Rose,  Feeding  the  Family,  chaps,  v-xi,  is  particularly 

helpful. 
Also,  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  The  Food  Problem,  chap,  v, 


7o         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

In  calories,  taking   2,500  as  the  average,  this 
division  would  read,  approximately: 

Protein 300  calories 

Fat 500       " 

Carbohydrate 1,700       " 

Or,  estimated  in  grams,  it  reads: * 

Protein 70  grams 

Fat 60     " 

Carbohydrate 450     " 

Or,  estimated  in  ounces,  it  reads:  2 

Protein 2.5  ounces 

Fat 2.12     " 

Carbohydrate 7.         " 

Although  small,  the  proportion  of  protein  calories 
is  particularly  important.  Too  little  protein  is  harm- 
ful, and  too  much  equally  so.  With  too  little  pro- 
tein, body  tissues  waste;  with  too  much,  poisons  ac- 
cumulate, and  kidneys  and  liver  are  overworked. 
Children,  because  they  are  growing  and  developing, 
require  slightly  more  protein  in  proportion  to  body 
weight  than  grown  people.  More  than  this,  however, 
the  "chief  concern  in  the  diet  of  a  growing  child  is 
not  the  amount  of  protein,  but  the,  presence  of  bal. 

1  One  gram  of  protein  will  yield  4.1  calories. 
One  gram  of  starch  will  yield  4.1  calories. 
One  gram  of  sugar  will  yield  4  calories. 
One  gram  of  fat  will  yield  9.3  calories. 

2  One  ounce  of  protein  will  yield  113  calories. 

One  ounce  of  carbohydrate  will  yield  113  calories. 
One  ounce  of  fat  will  yield  255  calories. 


IMPORTANT    FOOD    FACTS    71 

anced  protein."  This  is  one  reason  why  the  use  of 
milk  is  urged.1 

The  ash  constituents  and  accessory  factors  of 
food,  which  cannot  be  measured  in  calories  are  as 
important  as  its  calorie  value.  Carbohydrate,  fat, 
protein,  without  ash  constituents  and  accessory  fac- 
tors, will  not  feed  the  body.  As  has  been  said,  how- 
ever, if  the  calorie  requirement  is  satisfied  by  means 
of  a  variety  of  food,  the  necessary  ash  constituents 
and  regulating  factors  will  also  be  supplied. 

An  apple  or  an  egg  valued  at  75  calories  may, 
under  some  conditions,  do  the  body  more  good  than 
a  piece  of  candy  or  pastry  containing  300  calories. 
This  is  where  instinct  can  play  an  important  part 
in  food  selection,  and  where  judgment  as  well  as 
knowledge  is  needed. 

The  Cost  of  Food: 

The  market  price  of  food  does  not  indicate  its 
nutritive  value.  Many  cheap  foods  are  more  nour- 
ishing than  many  expensive  foods.  Foods  that  fur- 
nish the  greatest  number  and  variety  of  calories,  in 
digestible  form,  or  serve  the  body  most  completely 
for  least  money,  are  cheap  foods. 

Milk,  cereals,  bread  are  normally  cheap  foods 
because  the  return  in  nourishment — both  in  quan- 
tity and  in  kind — is  large  for  the  money  spent;  dried 
beans  and  lentils  contain  much  nourishment,  both 
in  quantity  and  in  kind,  but  are  not  so  easily  di- 

1  See  chap,  iv,  p.  46;  also,  chap,  vi,  p.  81. 
Also,  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  The  Food  Problem,  pp.  112- 
115. 


72         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

gested;  their  digestibility  must  be  increased  by- 
careful  cooking. 

A  quart  of  whole  milk  contains,  approximately, 
650  calories,  of  which  some  are  fat,  some  protein, 
and  some  carbohydrate;  milk  contains,  as  well, 
valuable  ash  constituents  and  certain  regulating 
factors;  moreover,  milk  requires  no  cooking  or 
other  preparation,  and  is  an  easily  digested  food. 
Thus,  at  12  cents  a  quart,  or  even  more,  one  is 
buying  valuable  nourishment  for  little  money. 

Market  prices  range  from  one-half  a  cent  to  five 
cents  or  over  for  each  100  calories  of  nourishment. 

Examples:  l 

When  buying  milk  at  12  cents  a  quart,  which  is 
650  calories,  we  are  paying  approximately  2  cents 
for  each  100  calories  of  nourishment. 
When  buying  steak,  lettuce,  canned  fish,  we  are 
paying  approximately  5  cents  for  each  100  calories 
of  nourishment. 

If  we  know  what  food  does,  what  each  food  con- 
tains, how  much  is  needed,  how  to  measure  it,  how 
to  value  it,  it  is  always  possible,  according  to  the 
need  of  the  moment ,  to  get  the  best  and  the  most  for 
the  money  that  can  be  spent,  to  make  every  bit  of 
purchased  nourishment  serve  to  the  fullest  extent, 
and  to  make  the  best  possible  use  of  every  food 
available. 

When  our  country  calls,  as  it  has  been  calling, 
"Spare  wheat,"  the  housekeeper  who  knows  her  food 
facts  will  be  able  to  respond  without  sacrificing  the 

*gee  Rose,  Feeding  the  Family,  pp.  426-429, 


IMPORTANT    FOOD    FACTS    73 

health  of  her  family,  the  income  of  her  household, 
or  the  welfare  of  the  world. 


REFERENCES: 

The  Food  Problem,  Kellogg  and  Taylor. 

"Ten  Lessons  on  Food  Conservation,' '  special  bulletin, 

United  States  Food  Administration. 
The  Fundamental  Basis  of  Nutrition,  Graham  Lusk. 
Elements  of  Nutrition,  Graham  Lusk. 
Changes  in  the  Food  Supply,  and   Their  Relation  to 

Nutrition,  Lafayette  B.  Mendel. 
Nutrition  and  Growth,  Lafayette  B.  Mendel. 
An  Adequate  Diet,  Percy  G.  Stiles. 
"The  Nutrition  of  the  People,"  M.  Rubner,  special 

article,  Journal  of  Home  Economics,  February,  19 13. 
Food  in  Health  and  Disease,  William  Tibbies. 
Food  and  Dietetics,  Robert  Hutchinson. 
Nutrition  and  Diet,  Winfield  S.  Hall. 
Feeding  the  Family,  Mary  Swartz  Rose. 
A  Laboratory  Manual  of  Dietetics,  Mary  Swartz  Rose. 
Food  Products,  Henry  C.  Sherman. 
Chemistry  of  Food  and  Nutrition,  Henry  C.  Sherman. 
Food  Analysis,  Leffmann  and  Beam. 
Pure  Foods,  John  C.  Olsen. 
How  to  Live,  Fisher  and  Fisk. 
"Principles  of  Nutrition  and  Nutritive  Value  of  Food," 

Atwater,  Bulletin  142,  United  States  Department 

of  Agriculture. 
"Composition  of  American  Food  Materials,"  Atwater, 

Bulletin  28,  United  States  Department  of  Agri- 
culture. 
Journal  of  Home  Economics,  American  Home  Economics 

Association,  Baltimore,  Md.  (special  articles). 
See  also  references  listed  at  close  of  Chapter  IV. 


VI 


PLANNING   THE    MEALS 

There  is  no  royal  road  to  food  conservation.  It  can  be 
accomplished  only  through  sincere  and  earnest  daily  co- 
operation in  the  twenty-two  million  kitchens  and  at  the 
twenty-two  million  dinner-tables  of  the  United  States.  .  .  . 
This  co-operation  and  service  I  ask  of  all  in  full  confidence 
that  America  will  render  more  for  flag  and  freedom  than 
king-ridden  peoples  surrender  at  compulsion. 

— Herbert  Hoover. 


EALS  must  both  feed  and  please. 
A  good  meal  is  that  which  supplies  the 
right  foods  in  the  most  wholesome  and 
attractive  form,  without  waste,  and  at 
the  lowest  cost — including  labor,  fuel  for  cook- 
ing, as  well  as  the  money  spent  for  the  food  itself. 
In  addition  to  this,  to-day — during  the  critical 
period  through  which  we  are  now  passing,  a  good 
meal  must  not  only  meet  these  requirements,  but 
in  its  planning  and  preparation  the  special  food 
needs  of  the  world  must  never  once  be  forgotten. 
Under  more  normal  conditions  it  was  not  diffi- 
cult to  provide  good  meals.    Under  the  changed 


PLANNING   THE   MEALS      75 

and  new  conditions  which  have  been  gradually- 
creeping  up  upon  us,  culminating  in  the  great 
home  and  world  food  problem  now  confronting 
us,  the  most  careful  thinking  every  step  of  the 
way  is  required — intelligent,  clever  planning,  wise 
purchasing,  good,  skilfully  managed  cooking,  at- 
tractive, happy  service. 

Of  these  steps,  the  first,  perhaps,  that  of  plan- 
ning the  meals,  requires  the  most  thought,  for 
we  can  no  longer  provide  good  meals  except 
through  the  understanding  application  of  the 
food  facts  assembled  in  the  preceding  chapter. 
It  is  the  only  way  to  give  every  one  the  best  and 
the  most  for  the  least;  to  play  fair,  as  it  were,  to 
every  interest — home,  country,  self.  Fortunately, 
this  is  not  really  as  difficult  as  it  may  sometimes 
seem.  In  order  to  feed  wisely,  economically,  and 
patriotically  it  is  not  necessary,  literally,  to  weigh 
and  measure  every  meal.  We  could  not  if  we 
would.  Scientific  menu-building  means,  bluntly, 
only  that  we  should  become  so  familiar  with  the 
most  important  food  facts  that  we  are  able  to 
reduce  this  knowledge  to  common  sense,  habit, 
or  second  nature  for  daily  practice,  and  use  it, 
technically,  as  a  checking  system,  whenever 
special  need  demands. 

If  the  family  is  dissatisfied,  if  there  are  doctor's 
bills,  if  children  are  fretful  or  white,  if  we  are 
spending  more  money  for  food  than  the  family 


76         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

budget  allows,  then  cold  science  must  come  to 
our  rescue  until  we  can  find  the  cause  of  the 
trouble,  and  a  remedy.  If  there  is  no  trouble — 
if  the  family  is  well  and  happy,  if  there  is  neither 
waste  nor  extravagance,  if  the  meals  appear  with 
little  effort,  if  we  know  how  to  substitute  foods 
equally  good  to  take  the  place  of  those  denied 
for  any  reason,  because  of  poverty,  scarcity, 
crop  failures — then,  although  we  may  not  realize 
it,  we  are  feeding  scientifically. 

Briefly  reviewed,   from  the  facts  outlined  in 
Chapter  V,  we  now  know: 

That  the  food  elements  include  proteins,  fats, 
carbohydrates,  certain  ash  or  mineral  constitu- 
ents, small  but  significant  amounts  of  accessory 
factors,  water,  and  bulk;  that  these  various 
principles  act  as  fuel,  repair,  growth,  and  regu- 
lating material  for  the  body,  and  are  present 
in  varying  proportions  in  natural  foods;  that 
they  are  all  needed  by  every  normal,  active 
body,  the  exact  proportions  of  each  element, 
and  the  total  amount  of  nourishment  depend- 
ing largely  on  the  age,  sex,  size  of  an  individual, 
and  the  amount  of  work  to  be  accomplished  in 
a  day;  that  this  nourishment  must  be  supplied 
from  a  variety  of  foods,  and  that  quality,  di- 
gestibility, proper  cooking,  flavor,  relish,  ap- 
pearance are  all  part  of  the  complete  dietetic 
value  of  any  food. 

Moreover,  we  have  learned  and  must  remember: 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS       77 

That  the  market  price  of  food  in  no  way  deter- 
mines the  nutritive  value;  that,  for  practical 
purposes,  the  nutritive  value  of  a  food  is  best 
measured  according  to  the  number  of  calories 
it  contains;  that  some  foods — weight  for  weight 
— contain  many  more  calories  than  other  foods; 
that  every  individual  requires  a  certain,  vary- 
ing number  of  calories  in  the  course  of  twenty- 
four  hours;  and  that  by  understanding  these 
two  facts  it  is  possible  to  feed  a  family  well  on 
a  certain  sum  of  money,  when,  without  this 
knowledge,  the  same  family  might  be  poorly 
fed  on  twice  that  sum. 

But,  valuable  as  the  calorie  method  of  house- 
keeping may  be,  in  our  enthusiasm  to  make  every 
bit  of  purchased  nourishment  count  high,  we 
must  not  overlook  the  fact  that  the  number  of 
calories  required  must  be  totaled  from  the  proper 
combination,  cooking,  and  serving  of  all  the  re- 
quired nutritive  elements. 

Meals  for  a  week  might  be  so  arranged  that  they 
would  provide  the  correct  number  of  calories, 
and  yet  not  supply  the  necessary  range  of  car- 
bohydrates, fats,  proteins,  the  necessary  mineral 
matter,  the  peculiarly  necessary  accessory  fac- 
tors. In  order  to  satisfy  his  curiosity  a  physician 
lived  on  nothing  but  sugar  for  a  month;  at  the 
end  of  the  month  he  died.1  The  necessary  calo- 
ries were  all  there  in  number — but  not  in  kind. 
Some  sugar  may  be  desirable  for  children,  but 
children  who  eat  their  quota  of  calories  in  the 

1  Cf.  Lusk,  Fundamental  Basis  of  Nutrition,  p.  16. 
6 


78  FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

form  of  candy  or  cheap  cake  have  no  appetite 
left  for  the  other  nutritive  elements  needed  by 
the  body,  and  trouble  follows.  Again,  meals 
might  supply  all  the  calories,  including  all  the 
needed  elements,  and  yet  be  so  unattractive  in 
food  selection,  combination,  cooking,  flavor, 
or  service  that  they  would  not  tempt,  and  to  that 
extent  would  not  nourish  properly. 

To  supply  all  the  needed  nutritive  elements, 
properly  balanced,  in  wholesome,  appetizing  com- 
binations, for  the  money  allowed  by  the  family 
budget,  without  unnecessary  labor,  and  without 
ever  once  forgetting  our  part  in  the  bigger  food 
and  feeding  issue  of  the  world,  is  no  small  problem 
in  itself.  The  only  way  to  solve  it  is  through  the 
kind  of  meals  we  plan. 

Family  needs,  season,  local  food  supply,  prac- 
tical conditions  or  ideals  of  living,  and  the  sum 
of  money  allowed  by  the  family  budget  are  all 
important  considerations  in  determining  the  type 
of  meals  served: 

A  meal  may  consist  of  one,  two,  or  more  foods 
served  as  separate  dishes,  or  it  may  consist  of 
several  foods  combined  in  one  dish.  Simple  meals, 
yet  served  without  loss  to  any  member  of  the  family 
of  the  nourishment  and  happiness  which  is  due, 
are  not  only  now  necessary,  but  rapidly  becom- 
ing popular  as  their  true  worth  is  recognized. 

Each  meal  should  be  considered  in  relation  to  the 
other  meals  of  the  day  or  week,  and  every  group 


PLANNING   THE    MEALS       79 

and  type  of  food  represented,  in  some  form,  in  the 
course  of  a  day's  feeding — some  carbohydrate,  some 
fat  (for  fuel),  some  protein,  some  mineral  matter  (for 
body  building  and  repair),  some  regulating  material, 
some  bulk  or  waste,  some  raw  food,  some  hard  food. 
The  simplest  way  to  insure  this  is  to  serve  as  much 
variety  as  possible;  not  necessarily  at  one  meal,  but 
in  the  course  of  a  day — or  even  the  week.  In  this 
way — and  excepting  definite  over-  or  under-feeding 
— the  proper  balance  of  the  needed  elements  will 
be  more  or  less  automatically  supplied.1  Few 
dishes  at  one  meal,  and  varied  meals  is  a  good  rule. 

Variety  must  not  be  confused  with  elaboration. 
Variety,  in  connection  with  meals,  is  only  in- 
tended to  mean  that,  as  far  as  practical,  we 
should  make  use  of  all  the  wholesome  foods 
wisely  provided  by  nature,  and  so  avoid  possible 
harmful  effects  of  a  narrow  or  one-sided  diet. 
Moderate,  varied  feeding  is  a  safeguard  against 
eating  too  much  or  too  little  of  any  one  food  ma- 
terial or  element.  Variety,  also,  prevents  loss 
of  appetite  through  monotony. 

Since  dinner  is  the  most  important  meal,  includ- 
ing, as  it  normally  does,  at  least  half  of  the  daily 
food  required,  it  should  be  planned  first,  and  the 
balance  of  the  nourishment  required  then  divided, 
approximately,  between  breakfast  and  lunch  or 
supper.  Moreover,  the  food  served  at  dinner  will 
largely  determine  the  kind  of  food  needed  for 
breakfast  and  supper  or  lunch. 

Not  more  than  one  food  or  dish  rich  in  protein- 
meat,  fish,  eggs,  beans,  cheese  (when  used  as  a  main 

1  See  chap,  v,  pp.  69,  70. 


80         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

dish) — should  be  served  at  one  meal;  it  is  better, 
perhaps,  in  a  majority  of  cases — particularly  for 
adults  who  do  not  need  food  for  body  growth — to 
serve  only  one  " protein-rich"  food  a  day,  and  to 
have  one  or  two  entirely  "meatless"  days  a  week. 
There  is  protein  enough  in  bread,  cereals,  milk, 
nuts  to  supply  what  may  be  needed  by  the  body 
on  those  days  when  " meats"  are  omitted  entirely. 
At  every  meal  either  fruit  in  some  form,  or  a  green 
vegetable,  should  be  served  as  regulating  material. 
"Fuel  foods" — breads,  cereals,  potatoes,  sweets — 
served  as  required  will  supply  the  balance  of  the 
nourishment.  Some  "color"  and  "flavor"  should 
also  be  included  in  every  meal. 

All  meals  which  must  cover  the  feeding  of  both 
children  and  grown  people  require  special  thought 
and  most  careful  planning.  Very  young  children 
must,  of  course,  be  specially  provided  for;  they 
require  different  food,  served  at  different  times  and 
in  different  quantities.1  School  boys  and  girls  also 
require  careful,  regular  feeding;  they  need,  urgently, 
the  food  materials  which  growth  and  development 
are  constantly  exacting,  and  can  use  more  food — 
although  it  must  be  wisely  selected — than  adults.2 

All  children  require  easily  digested  foods  that  are 
not  stimulating  or  highly  seasoned.    Children  re- 

1  For  advice  and  practical  help,  see: 

"Food  for  Young   Children,"   Farmers'   Bulletin   717, 
United  States  Department  of  Agriculture. 

Also,  Feeding  the  Family,  Rose,  chaps,  v,  vi,  vii. 

2  Feeding  the  Family,  Rose,  chap.  ix. 
Nutrition  and  Diet,  Hall,  chap.  xi. 

"School  Lunches,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  712,  United  States 
Department  of  Agriculture. 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS       81 

quire  particularly  the  elements  of  growth  found 
in  fresh  foods,  milk,  eggs,  real  butter,  cream;  also 
fresh  fruits  and  green  vegetables,  well-cooked 
cereals,  and  well-baked,  dry  breads;  they  should 
not  have  tea  or  coffee,  fried  foods,  or  pastry. 

A  quart  of  pure,  whole  milk  a  day  is  a  safe  and 
wise  foundation  for  a  child's  diet  through  and  even 
beyond  the  twelfth  year;  it  insures  " balanced 
protein,"  as  well  as  lime  for  body-building,  and 
the  desired  amount  of  butter  fat;  this  milk  may 
be  taken  as  a  beverage  or  in  combination  with 
cereals,  in  cream  soups  or  in  simple  desserts. 
If  this  amount  is  not  practical  for  any  reason, 
at  least  a  pint,  if  possible,  should  be  provided. 
A  quart,  however,  is  particularly  necessary  for 
children  under  six  years.    (See  chap.  iv.  pp.  46-49.) 

Unless  the  value  of  a  careful  diet  is  recognized, 
one  can  scarcely  expect  a  child  to  grow  into 
creditable  manhood  or  womanhood.  The  un- 
happy results  of  irregular  habits  and  poor  food 
are  not  always  apparent  at  once,  but  the  hurt 
of  unwise  feeding  is  bound  to  come — some  day, 
just  as  surely  as  the  health  and  strength  and  joy 
from  proper  feeding  are  also  bound  to  come. 

Fruit,  cereal,  milk  or  cream,  bread  in  some  form, 
with  coffee  or  milk  or  cocoa,  is  always  a  good  break- 
fast. More  or  less  of  this,  or  selections  from  this, 
may  be  eaten,  according  to  need.  Eggs  or  fish  may 
be  added  in  the  case  of  growing  boys  and  girls 
where  special  protein  nourishment  is  required,  or 
sometimes  in  cases  where  an  active  day  begins  early 
in  the  morning,  with  heavy  work  to  be  accomplished 


82         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

out  of  doors  before  noon.  Dishes  combining  cereal 
and  eggs — such  as  oatmeal  muffins  or  spoon  corn- 
bread — are  often  practical  and  economical. 

Nourishing  sandwiches  with  lettuce,  or  fresh  fruit, 
served  with  tea,  milk,  cocoa,  or  a  fruit  beverage 
make  a  good  lunch  or  supper.  A  cream  or  bean 
soup,  or  chowder,  with  rolls  and  butter,  is  a  good 
substitute — with  fruit  and  a  cookie  added  for  fun 
and  a  relish.  Salad,  with  biscuits  or  muffins,  fol- 
lowed by  a  light  dessert,  offers  other  possibilities. 

Meat  or  fish,  one  or  two  green  vegetables,  one 
starchy  vegetable,  bread  and  butter,  and  a  simple 
dessert  are  normally  the  rule  for  a  good  dinner.  For 
economy,  such  combination  dishes  as  stews,  soy 
beans  and  rice,  samp  and  cheese,  with  coarse  bread 
and  butter,  followed  by  salad  or  a  fruit  pudding  or 
dessert,  may  be  substituted. 

Soup  is  sometimes  desirable,  but  not  essential; 
if  the  dinner  is  substantial,  and  soup  is  served,  it 
should  be  a  thin,  clear  soup;  thick  soups  can  be 
so  made  and  served  that  they  furnish  complete 
meals  in  themselves. 

A  dessert  should  be  estimated  as  part  of  the  nour- 
ishment of  a  meal,  not  as  an  extra  that  does  not 
count.  A  substantial  dinner  should  be  followed 
by  a  very  light  dessert — such  as  fresh  fruit,  fruit 
salad,  or  a  simple  ice.  A  light  dinner  may  be 
completed  with  a  nourishing  dessert — such  as 
rice  pudding,  custard,  fruit  shortcake,  steamed 
raisin  pudding;  this  is  frequently  an  economical 
method  of  " stretching' ■  a  dinner  somewhat  lack- 
ing in  quantity  or  nourishment. 


PLANNING   THE    MEALS       83 

A  dinner  of  two  or  three  courses,  properly  planned 
and  nicely  served,  can  supply  all  the  food  and 
esthetic  satisfaction  required;  more  courses  than 
this  are  usually  unnecessary,  and  frequently  im- 
ply overfeeding. 

In  planning  meals  the  following  system  may 
be  helpful: 

1.  Consider  family  needs: 

Number  in  family,  age  of  each,  normal  weight, 
activity,  physical  condition. 

Estimate  approximately  total  amount  of  food 
required  daily.1 

Note  type  of  food  and  dishes — according  to 
individual  need,  and  season  of  the  year — best 
fitted  to  supply  this  required  amount  of  food: 

Note  what  staple  or  essential  foods  are  re- 
quired; allow,  if  possible,  one  quart  of  milk  a 
day  for  each  child,  and  from  one-half  to  one 
pint  for  each  adult;  do  not  exceed  3  ounces 
of  fat,  and  approximately  2  ounces  of  sugar  per 
capita; 2  use  a  variety  of  flours  and  cereals. 

Do  not  overlook  the  importance  of  fresh  food, 
or  some  raw  food,  and  the  general  regulating 
value  of  fruits  and  green  vegetables. 

With  some  hot  weather  exceptions,  at  least 
one  hot  dish  at  a  meal  is  desirable. 

1  See  chap,  v,  pp.  62-71. 

2  See  The  Food  Problem,  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  chaps,  v, 
vi,  vii. 


84         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Do  not  use  the  same  food  twice  at  one  meal. 

Food  eaten  between  meals  should  be  estimated 
as  part  of  the  regular  allowance. 

2.  Consider  the  food  supply: 

Be  readily  familiar  with  the  composition  of  all 
common  foods,  so  that  if  certain  needed  foods 
are  not  available,  others,  equally  good,  may  be 
substituted. 

Note  all  food  on  hand,  before  purchasing;  note 
what  additional  food  may  be  required. 

Note  what  foods  are  seasonable,  easily  avail- 
able, or  abundant. 

Note  what  local  foods  are  available — in  the 
garden,  in  a  neighbor's  garden,  in  the  town,  in 
the  state;  remember  the  wild  greens — dande- 
lion, cress,  sorrel,  etc. 

Note  what  foods  are  scarce  or  restricted,  and 
must  be  spared  because  of  world  needs;  note 
what  substitutes  can  be  used. 

3.  Consider  the  cost  of  food: 

Determine  what  foods  most  readily  available 
for  the  money  which  may  be  spent  (the  sum  al- 
lowed for  food  by  the  family  budget)  will  best 
satisfy  family  needs;   select  these  foods. 

Calculate  cost  of  food  not  only  in  relation  to 
market  prices,  but  in  relation  to  nourishment 
obtained,  digestibility,  proportion  of  edible 
material,  time  required  for  preparation. 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS      85 

Balance  the  cost  and  value  of  packaged  foods 
against  bulk  foods ;  raw,  against  ready-cooked ; 
home-made  bread  against  bakers':  in-season 
foods  against  out -of -season,  etc. 

.  Determine  type  of  meals: 

That  will  best  serve  family  needs. 

That  are  appropriate  for  the  season. 

That  will  permit  foods  selected  to  be  served  to 

the   best   advantage — all   interests   considered, 

health,  convenience,  and  an  attractive  table. 

.  Plan  meals  for  a  week  in  advance: 

Write  these  down  on  cards,  to  be  filed  in  a 
cabinet,  or  in  a  loose-leaf  notebook.  When  prac- 
tical, this  is  the  wisest  and  most  profitable  way 
to  manage;  it  prevents  confusion,  saves  money, 
also  time  in  marketing  and  cooking,  and  insures 
better  meals  and  greater  variety.  Menus  prov- 
ing satisfactory  may  be  kept  for  repetition  or 
reference:  unsatisfactory  menus  may  be  dis- 
carded. 

Prepare  different  types  of  menus  for  different 
needs — school-luncheon  menus,  picnic  menus, 
quickly  prepared  dinners,  fuel-saving  menus, 
cold  weather  menus,  menus  for  special  occasions, 
etc. 

Make  lists  of  suitable  combinations  of  foods.1 

1  For  suggestions,  see: 

Every  Day  Menu  Book,  S.  T.  Rorer. 

New  Cook  Book,  S.  T.  Rorer. 

How  to  Cook  and  Why,  Condit  and  Long,  chap.  xiv. 

Feeding  the  Family,  Rose,  chap.  xii. 


86         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Keep  a  list  of  new  dishes  or  new  foods  discovered 
from  time  to  time.  "  Surprises  "  prevent  monot- 
ony and  sustain  interest  in  meals. 

Keep  selective  food  lists  on  hand — meat-sub- 
stitute dishes,  breads  without  wheat,  desserts 
without  sugar,  etc. 

6.  Do  personal  marketing: 

.  Avoid  ordering  by  telephone;  pay  cash;  carry 
food  home;  accept  only  reliable  packaged  goods 
which  can  be  guaranteed;  try  new  foods;  when 
buying  perishables,  do  not  buy  more  than  can 
be  used  to  advantage;  when  practical,  buy 
staples  for  a  definite  period  in  advance — this 
saves  time,  deliveries,  inconvenience,  money. 
Do  not  be  ashamed  to  buy  carefully. 

SELECTIVE  FOOD  LISTS 
To  Spare  Wheat — Serve 

Barley  Bread  Barley  Scones 

Boston  Brown  Bread  Bran  Fruit  Gems 

Buckwheat  Cakes  Buckwheat  Muffins 
Corn-breads  and  Muffins     Corn  Griddle  Cakes 

Corn-Rye  Gems  Corn  Waffies 

Corn-Wheat  Bread  Date-Rye  Muffins 

Hominy  Popovers  Nut  Brown  Bread 

Oatmeal  Bread  Oatmeal  Cookies 

Oatmeal  Muffins  Oatmeal  Scones 

Rice  Gems  Rye  Bread 

Rye  Meal  Biscuits  Rye  Gingerbread 

Rye  Liberty  Cake  Southern  Spoon  Bread 
Soy  Meal  Gems 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS       87 


To  Spare  Meat — Serve 


Bean  Soups 
Cheese,  with  Cereals 
Cheese  Souffle 
Chowders,  Vegetable 
Eggs,  with  Cereals 
Eggs,  with  Vegetables 
Lentils,  with  Rice 
Local  Game  and  Poultry 
Mushrooms,  with  Vegetables 
Nut  Breads 
Omelets,  with  Cheese 
Omelets,  with  Vegetables  Peanut  Butter  Sandwiches 
Vegetable  Dinners 


Beans,  Baked 

Beans,  Stewed 

Cheese  Puree 

Chowders,  Fish 

Cocoa  and  Chocolate 

Eggs,  with  Sauces 

Fish 

Lentil  Soup 

Milk 

Nuts 

Nut  and  Cereal  Dishes 


To  Spare  Sugar — Serve 


Dried  Fruits 
Date  Puddings 
Figs 

Fresh  Fruits 
Honey- 
Honey  Frosting 
Maple  Syrup 
Maple-sugar  Candies 
Molasses 

Molasses  Puddings 
Raisin  Breads 
Raisin  Puddings 


Dates 

Dates,  with  Cereals 
Fig  Puddings 
Fruit-Nut  Candies 
Honey  Cakes 
Honey  Pop-corn  Balls 
Maple-sugar  Cakes 
Maple-sugar  Frosting 
Molasses  Cakes 
Prune  Puddings 
Raisin  Cakes 
Stuffed  Dates 


Vegetable  Candies 
To  spare  fat,  check  all  waste,  use  vegetable  oils 
and  nut  butters  in  cooking,  and  do  not  serve  fried 
foods  or  pastry. 

"If  each  individual  in  the  United  States  consumes 
a  half-pint  of  milk  per  day,  the  amount  of  meat 
that  may  be  regarded  as  necessary  does  not  exceed 
two  ounces  per  capita  per  day." 


88  FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

CONSERVATION   MENUS 

The  following  menus  have  been  arranged,  from  time 
to  time,  to  cover  different  needs.  To  get  the  most  food 
satisfaction  for  the  least  outlay — in  money,  time,  labor, 
fuel — has  been  the  central  thought  in  planning  them. 
Since  conditions  in  every  home  differ,  however,  these 
menus  can  be  offered  as  sample  suggestions  only,  with  the 
hope  that  they  may  be  of  value  in  helping  to  solve  some 
of  the  many  housekeeping  problems  as  they  occur.  Dishes 
similar  in  food  value  may  be  substituted  for  any  dishes 
mentioned  which  may  not  be  practical,  or  consistent 
with  the  food  needs  of  the  world  as  they  develop.  In  the 
case  of  very  simple  meals,  enough  in  quantity  must  be 
provided  to  make  up  for  lack  in  variety.  Young  children 
must,  of  course,  be  specially  provided  for. 

WHEN  PLANNING  MEALS  REMEMBER 
That  milk  is  a  valuable  food,  and  cheap,  because  of  its 
value,  even  when  comparatively  high  in  price;  it  requires 
no  cooking;  its  use  saves  meat,  fuel,  time,  and  insures  a 
good  diet.  From  one  pint  to  a  quart  of  whole  milk  a  day 
for  each  child,  and  from  one-half  to  one  pint  for  each 
adult,  is  a  wise  allowance.  "Milk  consumption  in  the 
United  States  should  not  fall  below  one  pint  of  milk  per 
capita  per  day."  l  A  general  demand  for  this  amount  would 
not  only  help  to  save  the  needed  meat,  but  would  increase 
the  dairying  business,  which  is  most  important,  since  the 
strength  of  a  country  can  be  measured  by  the  size  of  its 
herds  and  the  number  of  its  milch-cows. 
"That  cream  should  not  be  used  as  a  luxury,  nor  should 
butter  be  used  in  cooking,"  until  the  milk  supply  is  again 
adequate  or  abundant,  or  unless  a  fortunate  local,  personal 
supply  might  otherwise  justify  its  use. 
That  fresh  fruit  is  a  necessary  food,  and  requires  no 
cooking;  its  use  saves  sugar,  fuel,  time,  and  insures  a 
good  diet;  it  also  saves  fats  and  wheat  flour  frequently 
used  in  making  desserts  not  really  needed. 

1  Kellogg  and  Taylor,  The  Food  Problem,  chap.  vi. 


PLANNING   THE    MEALS       89 

SIMPLE   BREAKFASTS 
Nourishing — Easily  Prepared 


Stewed  Figs  and  Raisins 

Hominy  Popovers,    Butter 

Coffee  Milk 


Orange  Apple  Sauce 

Oatmeal,  Top  Milk 

Whole  Wheat  Rolls  Coffee 

3 

Sliced  Bananas,  with  Dates,  Cream 

Shirred  Eggs  Toasted  Muffins  Marmalade 

Coffee  Milk 

4 

Prunes  and  Barley,  Top  Milk 

Rye  Bread  Honey 

Coffee        Milk 

5 

Peaches  and  Grapes 

Southern  Corn  Waffles,  Maple  Syrup 

Coffee  Milk 

6 

Stewed  Apricots 

Cornmeal  Mush,  Top  Milk 

Date-Rye  Muffins  Coffee 

7 

Sliced  Oranges 

Broiled  Salt  Mackerel  Creamed  Potatoes 

Toast  Coffee  Milk 


I 


90         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 


TEMPTING   BREAKFASTS 
For  Hot  Mornings 

1 

French  Toast,  Strawberries 

Coffee  Milk 


Chilled  Orange  Juice 
Molded  Hominy  Mush,  Cream 
Blueberry  Gems  Coffee  Milk 

3 
Wild  Blackberries 
Rice  Cakes,  Honey 
Coffee  Milk 

4 

Sliced  Bananas,  with  Raspberries,  Cream 
Graham  Rolls  Butter 

Coffee         Milk 

5 

Cold  Rice,  Peaches,  Top  Milk 

Coffee        Cinnamon  Coffee  Cake 

6 

Tomato  Omelet  Corn-Wheat  Rolls 

Coffee 

7 

Berries  Molded  Wheat  Cereal,  Top  Milk 

Raisin  Brown  Bread  Coffee 

8 

Chilled  Clabbered  Milk,  Cream 

Oatmeal  Bread         Marmalade 

Coffee 


PLANNING   THE    MEALS       91 


FOR  CHILDREN  WHO  COME  HOME  AT  NOON 

School-children  who  finish  their  work  at  twelve  o'clock, 
and  are  free  to  enjoy  the  afternoon  in  active  play  out  of 
doors,  require  a  substantial  meal  in  the  middle  of  the  day. 
When  this  can  be  provided;  a  light  supper  at  night  is  all 
that  is  necessary.  The  following  dinners  are  practical 
and  wholesome,  and  may  suggest  possibilities: 


Vegetable  Broth  Oatmeal  Bread 

Spinach,  with  Poached  Eggs,  Bacon  Curls 

Compote  of  Rice,  with  Peaches 


Chicken  Fricassee  Noodles  Diced  Carrots 

Mixed  Green  Salad  Barley  Bread 

Pineapple  Tapioca 

3 

Split  Pea  Soup  Hard  Rolls 

Celery,  Apple  and  Lettuce  Salad 

Chocolate  Bread  Pudding,  Marshmallow  Sauce 

4 

Cream  of  Carrot  Soup,  Croutons 

Panned  Chicken  Baked  Bananas  Celery 

Whole  Wheat  Bread  Blackberry  Jam 

5 

Cream  of  Salmon  Soup 

Lima  Bean  Omelet        Jacket  Potatoes 

Fruit  Rye  Bread  and  Butter 

6 

Broiled  Chopped  Beef  Baked  Potato 

Creamed  Onions        Oven  Dried  Bread 

Zufii  Peach  Pudding,  Peach  Syrup 


92         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

INEXPENSIVE  TWO-COURSE   DINNERS 

i 

Black  Bean  Soup         Rye  Bread         New  Green  Onions 

Grandmother's  Strawberry  Shortcake,  or  Fruit  Salad 

2 

Oxtail  Stew,  with  Noodles  Dandelion  Salad 

Fruit  Come  Again  Cake 

3 

Calcutta  Rice        Asparagus,  Melted  Butter 

Quick  Corn  Sally 

Jellied  Fruit,  Custard  Sauce 

4 

Baked  Samp  and  Cheese 
Calico  Salad  Rye  Muffins 

Frozen  Strawberries  Sponge  Cake 

5 

Lentils  and  Rice  Whole  Wheat  Bread 

Cabbage  Salad  Cheese  Nut  Balls 

Florida  Ice        Sugar  Cookies 

6 

Leek  and  Potato  Soup 

Brown  Bread  Cottage  Cheese 

Quick  Apple  Dumpling,  Hard  Sauce 

7 

Soy  Bean  Stew         Rolls  Celery 

Little  Bread  Puddings,  Raspberry  Meringue 

8 

Steamed  Sea  Mussels  or  Clams 

Bermuda  Salad         Cheese         Oatmeal  Bread 

Blueberry  Shortcake,  or  Rice  Pudding,  Fruit  Sauce 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS       93 

FUEL  ECONOMY   MENUS 

Fuel  saving  is  of  just  as  great  national  importance  as 
the  right  kind  of  food  sparing.  To  save  fuel  in  cooking, 
do  not  forget  all  the  possibilities  of  "  fireless-oven " 
cooking;  do  not  forget  that  complete  dinners  may  be 
cooked  over  one  burner  by  using  a  two-  or  three-story 
steamer;  do  not  forget  the  value  of  the  tireless  cooker 
for  overnight  cooking — particularly  for  cereals,  beans, 
vegetables,  stewed  fruits,  or  a  piece  of  meat  for  "cold 
cuts";  do  not  forget  to  bake  breads,  puddings,  cakes  in 
small  pans;  do  not  forget  to  cook  enough  at  one  time  to 
cover  several  meals;  do  not  forget  the  many  foods  that 
require  little  or  no  cooking — fresh  fruits,  dates,  figs, 
raisins,  nuts,  salads,  milk,  cocoa  or  chocolate,  cheese 
dishes,  eggs,  fish,  cream  soups. 

Cold  Weather  Dinners 


Chicken  Casserole,  with  Vegetables 

Celery         Grape  Jam         Ripe  Olives 

Baked  Stuffed  Apples,  Marshmallow  Sauce 


Fireless  Flank  Steak,  with  Spaghetti 

Graham  Bread  Spiced  Crabapples 

Fruit         Cocoanut  Jumbles 

3 
Cream  of   Scallop  Soup 
Rice  and  Vegetable  Salad  Rye  Bread 

7  Orange  Jelly  Spiced  Oat  Cookies 


94         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Hot  Weather  Dinners 


Jellied  Fowl  Rice  Salad,  with  Escarole 

Corn-Wheat  Rolls  Orangeade 

Cantaloupe  Surprise 


Panned  Fish  Parsley  Potatoes 

Sliced  Tomatoes  and  Cucumbers,  French  Dressing 

Cheese  Wafers 

Strawberry  Mousse  or  Custard 

3 

Hot  Clam  Broth 

Debutante  or  Summer  Salad  Barley  Rolls 

Chilled  Peaches       Cookies,  or      Brown  Bread  Ice  Cream 

4 
Cream  of   Carrot  Soup 
Clam  Omelet        Beet  Greens        Peanut  Bread 
Watermelon 


5 

Fruit  Cocktail 

Creamed  Chicken,  with  Mushrooms  New  Peas 

Corn  on  the  Cob 

Chocolate  Junket  Liberty  Cake 


Spinach  Florentine 

Iced  Coffee  Tiny  Tea  Biscuit 

Shredded  Pineapple,  with  Bananas 


PLANNING   THE    MEALS 

A  Few  Luncheon  Suggestions 

i 

Tomato-Cheese  Rarebit  Toast 

Peach  Salad  Wafers 


Oatmeal  Crackers,  Milk 
Dates  or  Berries 

3 
Cream  of  Turnip  Soup,  Croutons 
Cereal- Prune  Bread  Apples 

•4 
Food-Fruit  Salad 
Hot  Cocoa  Brown  Bread  Sandwiches 

5 

Split  Pea  Soup 

Oven  Dried  Bread,  Butter 

Fruit  Maple  Sugar 

6 

Chicken  Curry  Soup  Potato  Bread 

Bean   Salad,  French  Dressing 

Figs  Apples 


95 


96         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

WHEN    CARRIED    TO    SCHOOL    IN    A    BASKET 

Let  the  school  lunch  be  easily  digested  and  nourishing. 
Give  enough,  but  not  too  much.  A  brown,  whole-wheat 
or  cereal-bread  sandwich,  with  good  butter,  chopped  beef, 
minced  chicken  or  lamb,  ground  nuts,  or  cream  cheese 
and  a  lettuce  leaf  for  the  filling,  with  fruit,  and  a  hard 
cooky  or  small  piece  of  sweet  chocolate  to  satisfy  the 
desire  for  something  sweet,  make  the  best  luncheon. 
Coffee,  tea,  pie,  rich  cake,  cheap  candy,  and  pickles 
should  not  be  given.  Variety  makes  the  luncheon  in- 
teresting and  appetizing.  Keep  sandwiches  moist  by 
wrapping  them  in  wax  paper.  Covered  paper  cups  are 
excellent  for  holding  salads  or  a  baked  custard  or  some 
fruit  jelly.  Milk,  hot  soup,  cocoa,  or  malted  milk  when 
practical  is  sometimes  a  good  addition  to  the  sandwich 
luncheon. 

i 

Chopped  Beef  Sandwiches,  with  Lettuce 

Apple  Honey  Cookies 

2* 

Cream  Cheese  and  Nut  Sandwiches  (Brown  Bread) 
Peach  Butter  Sandwiches  Grapes 

'  3 
Raisin  and  Fig  Paste  Sandwiches 
Apple        Rice  Pudding 

4 

Minced  Chicken  and  Celery  Sandwiches 

Orange  Sweet  Chocolate 

5 

Peanut  Butter  Sandwiches  (Graham  Bread) 

Marmalade  Sandwiches         Ripe  Pear 

6 

Thin  Corn  Bread  and  Butter 
Hot  Malted  Milk  Apple  Maple  Sugar 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS      97 

FOR  THE  WOMAN  AT  HOME 

The  housekeeper  alone  at  home,  whose  work  does  not 
take  her  beyond  the  limits  of  stove  and  ice-box,  also 
faces  the  problem  of  a  proper  meal  at  noon.  Here  the 
difficulty  lies,  however,  in  lack  of  appetite  rather  than 
lack  of  good,  available  food.  A  monotonous  morning, 
with  little  opportunity  for  refreshment  in  the  open  air, 
has  robbed  the  body  of  its  vitality,  leaving  one  worn,  but 
with  no  very  keen  desire  for  food  Neglect  is  easy.  A 
cup  of  strong  tea  is  hastily  swallowed  while  standing, 
and  the  "  dull  -headachy "  afternoon  follows.  Luncheon 
with  a  chair,  a  plate  with  a  napkin  under  it,  and  a 
flower  seems  out  of  the  question.  There  are,  how- 
ever, many  quickly  prepared  food  drinks,  and  other  simple 
dishes  calling  for  no  more  effort  than  the  "tea  and  bread" 
luncheon,  but  supplying  the  body  with  just  the  right  kind 
of  attractive  nourishment  required.  A  list  of  such  dishes 
kept  on  hand,  so  that  the  right  food  might  be  quickly  pre- 
pared at  the  psychological  moment,  would  double  and 
triple  the  working  value  of  the  afternoons — and  inci- 
dentally substitute  happiness  for  headaches  in  many 
homes. 

I 

Cheese  Puree  Toast 

Sliced  Tomato 

2 

French  Omelet  Buttered  Roll 

Fruit 

3 

Egg  Lemonade 

Raisin  Bread  and  Butter 

4 

Iced  Chocolate 
Bran  Wafers  Peaches 


98         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

TRAY   SUPPERS 
For  the  Porch  or  Fireside 

i 

Sweetbread  Salad  Sandwich  Rolls 

Orangeade         Fruit  Jumbles 


Tomato  Bisque  in   Cups 

Oatmeal-Cheese  Biscuit 

Stuffed  Dates  or  Nut  Brittle 

3 

Assorted  Sandwiches,  with  Lettuce 

Cantaloupe  or  Frozen  Peaches 

Corn  Cup  Cakes 

4 

Marmalade  Nut  Bread  Sandwiches 

Iced  Chocolate 

5 

Peanut  Scones  Calico  Salad 

Hot  Cocoa 

6 

Banana  Salad  Buttered  Graham  Rolls 

Currant  Punch         Cup  Cakes 

7 

Assorted  Sandwiches 

Lemon  Milk  Sherbet       Sponge  Cake 

8 

Oatmeal  Crackers  or  Whole  Wheat  Bread,  Milk 

Sliced  Peaches  or  Baked  Apples 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS      99 

GOOD   DINNERS  FOR   LATE   SUMMER 

When  the  Garden  Is  Overburdened  with  Its 
Treasure 


Chilled  Cantaloupe 

Stuffed  Peppers,  Cream  Sauce  Corn 

Garden  Salad,  Russian  Dressing 

New  Apple  Cake  Cheese 

2 

Cream  of  Lettuce  Soup 

Creole  Omelet  Corn-on-the-Cob 

Orchard  Salad 

Apple  Sauce  Cake        Fruit  Punch 

3 

Tomato  and  Cucumber  Cocktail 

Trench  Succotash  Potato  Bread 

Peaches  Fruit  Cookies 

4 

Corn-cut-from-the-Cob 

Cold  Boiled  Lobster 

Sliced  Tomatoes,  Chicory,  Mayonnaise 

Steamed  Blackberry  Dumpling  Coffee 

5 

Spinach,  with  Diced  Carrots 

String  Beans,  with  Chipped  Beef 

Potatoes  in  Their  Jackets 

Green  Plum  Cake 

6 

Cream  of  Cauliflower  Soup    . 
Tomatoes,  with  Crabflakes,  Mayonnaise 
War  Bread  Butter 

Pears,  Delicious 


ioo       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 


COLD- WEATHER   "SOUP  MEALS" 

When  we  are  looking  for  some  one  dish  that  will,  at 
a  minimum  cost,  both  nourish  and  please,  the  thick 
soup  or  broth  offers  many  possibilities,  and  the  knowl- 
edge of  its  proper  making  and  use  is  a  valued  asset.  In 
the  large  family,  where  the  necessary  generous  providing 
furnished  meat  trimmings,  vegetable  water,  and  interest- 
ing left-overs  in  abundance,  it  is  frequently  possible  to 
put  together  a  real  soup  without  going  to  one's  purse  for 
assistance.  Briefly,  to  get  the  best  out  of  your  soup-pot, 
utilize  all  food  bits  that  are  clean  and  wholesome,  cook 
the  soup  by  some  method  that  will  use  as  little  fuel  as 
possible,  and  serve  it  with  an  ingenious  accompaniment  so 
that  all  the  required  food  elements  may  be  properly  repre- 
sented. Ground  smoked  meat,  or  a  sliced  sausage  or  hard- 
cooked  egg,  with  a  garnish  of  dry  toast,  will  add  flavor, 
attractiveness,  and  still  more  nourishment  to  the  dried 
pea  and  bean  soups.  The  food  value  of  the  cream  vege- 
table soups  is  increased  if  the  water  in  which  the  vegetables 
have  been  cooked  is  consistently  used  in  combination 
with  the  milk  and  the  chopped  or  strained  vegetable  it- 
self. If  a  spoonful  of  whipped  cream,  when  such  a  luxury 
is  available,  is  added  to  each  portion,  or,  for  variety,  a 
slice  of  toast  with  melted  cheese,  or  toasted  cheese  crack- 
ers, the  soup  at  once  becomes  a  better  food.  Rolls  or 
crackers  made  of  coarse  flour,  served  with  a  cheese  or  nut 
soup,  break  the  concentration  and  blandness  of  these 
dishes.  As«  a  rule,  small,  warm,  hard  rolls,  breadsticks, 
or  toast  are  more  appetizing  with  soup  than  cold  sliced 
bread. 


PLANNING   THE'MEaLS     ioi 

Appropriate  for  Dinner,  Luncheon  or  Supper, 
According  to  the  Needs  of  Your  Family 


Cheese  Puree 

Graham  Gems  Butter 

Tomato  Jelly  Salad,  with  Cabbage 

Baked  Apple  Dumplings 


Black  Bean  Soup  Pulled  Bread 

Celery  and  Apple  Salad 
Steamed  Fig  Pudding,  Foamy  Sauce 

3 

Lentil- Sausage  Soup 
Rye  Rolls  Butter 

Orange  and  Date  Salad 
Pumpkin  Custard  Coffee 

4 

Fish  Chowder 

Pilot  Crackers  Butter 

Escarole  Salad  Cottage  Cheese 

Maple  Custards  Oatmeal  Cookies 

5 

Chicken  Curry  Soup 

Shamrock  Rolls  Butter 

Beet  and  String  Bean  Salad 

Corn  Waffles  Maple  Syrup  Coffee 

6 

Spinach,  Marmite  Corn- Wheat  Rolls 

Potato,  Cress,  and  Egg  Salad 

Quince  Tapioca,  Ice  Cream  Sauce 


io2        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 
Some  Spring  Dinners 


Cream  of  Cucumber  Soup 

Shad,  Creole       New  Potatoes 

Green  Onions  and  Radishes 

Popover  Puddings,  Strawberry  Sauce 

2 

Potato  and  Onion  Bisque 

Broiled  Squab  Asparagus 

Spring  Salad  Anchovy  Toast 

Rhubarb  Pudding  Coffee 

3 

Panned  Chicken 

Rice  Bermuda  Onions 

Dandelion  Salad  Wafers 

Maple  Ice  Cream  Lace  Cookies 

4 

Spinach  Beauregard  Cold  Sliced  Tongue 

Parsley  Potatoes 

Pineapple- Strawberry  Shortcake 


Ready-made  Company  Luncheons 


Italian  Spaghetti,  or  Welsh  Rarebit 

Lettuce  Salad,  French  Dressing  Wafers 

Grape  Juice  Punch  Fig  Cookies 


Tomato  Bisque  Croutons 

Sliced  Tongue  Asparagus  Tip  Salad 

Wafers  Cheese  Balls  Jam 

Iced  Chocolate  Sugar  Cookies 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS      103 

"VERY   EASY"   DINNERS 
For  the  Small  Family  without  Help 

1 

Oven  Panned  Smelts  Baked  Potatoes 

Romaine  and  Bermuda  Onion  Salad 

Dates  Oatmeal  Wafers  Orangeade 


Spinach,  Scrambled  Eggs,  Mushroom  Garnish 
Rye  Meal  Biscuit  Butter 

Fruit  Hot  Tea 

3 

Turkey  Rice  Soup,  with  Celery 

Hominy  Popovers  Butter 

Pineapple  Salad 

4 

Cheese  Rarebit  Toast 

Shredded  Cabbage  Salad,  Tomato  Garnish 

Banana  Charlotte 

5 

Creamed  Scallops  and  Shrimps 

Lettuce  Salad,  Russian  Dressing  Rolls 

Dutch  Coffee  Ring  Hot  Coffee 

6 

Creole  Fish  Chowder 

Corn  Muffins  Butter 

Prunes,  with  Chopped  Nuts  Cream 

7 
Broiled  Chicken 
Green  Peas  Bananas,  Southern  Style 

Fruit  Liberty  Cake 


io4        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

FESTIVE   MENUS      . 

Patriotically,  we  know  that  it  is  our  duty  to  be  wise 
and  economical  in  the  expenditure  of  every  material  re- 
source, as  well  as  of  our  own  time  and  energy;  but, 
patriotically,  is  it  not  also  our  duty  to  put  just  as  much 
fermenting  joy  into  the  world  now  as  we  possibly  can? 
Home  fun  and  parties  there  must  be  of  some  kind — or 
the  normal  balance  of  living  would  be  destroyed;  what- 
ever refreshments  are  served,  however,  should  be  planned 
with  the  utmost  judgment,  and  made  to  take  the  place, 
whenever  practical,  of  one  of  the  regular1  meals,  so  that 
a  "fourth"  meal  shall  not  be  served. 

For  the   Picnic   Lunch 


Egg,  Olive,  and  Lettuce  Sandwiches 
Fruit        Come  Again  Cake 


Rye  Tea  Biscuit  Sandwiches 

(with  minced-ham  and  cress  filling) 

Lace  Cookies  Lemonade  Ripe  Bananas 

3 

Cold  Roasted  Chicken 

Olives  Green  Onions 

Buttered  Corn-Wheat  Rolls 

Sponge  Cake,  with  Fresh  Strawberry  Filling 

4 
Grilled  Bacon  Whole  Wheat  Bread     ' 

Fig  Rolls  Hot  Coffee 

Fruit 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS     joS 

For  Winter   Holiday  Evening  Parties 

i 

Hot  Chicken  Broth  in  Cups 
Minced  Celery  and  Pimento  Sandwiches 
Chocolate  Ice  Cream  Sponge  Cake 

2 

Debutante  Salad         Graham  Bread  Sandwiches 

Frozen  Rice  Pudding,  Strawberry  Sauce 

Assorted  Cookies 

3 

Cress  Sandwiches,  Russian  Mayonnaise 
Hot  Cocoa       Corn  Cup  Cakes 

4 

Cottage  Cheese  and  Olive  Sandwiches 

Apricot  Jam  Sandwiches,  Nut  Bread 

Grape  Juice  Punch 

5 

Oysters  and  Shrimps  in  the  Chafing-dish 

Olive  Sandwiches  (Whole  Wheat  Bread) 

Hot  Coffee  Little  Raisin  Cakes 

6 

Turkey  Salad 

Buttered  Oatmeal  Rolls 

Pineapple  Sherbet 

7 

Chicken  Toast  Patties 

Cress  Sandwiches 

Nut  Kisses  Heart  Cookies 

Currant  Lemonade 

8 

Apple  and  Celery  Salad,  Cream  Mayonnaise 

Peanut  Biscuit  Sandwiches 

Orange  Ice 

Lace  Cookies  Sponge  Cake 


io6       FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 


'My  America"  Christmas  Dinners 


Tomato  Bouillon  in  Cups 

Rye  Breadsticks 

Roast  Duck,  Hominy  Stuffing 

Spinach         Apple  Sauce 

Conservation  Plum  Pudding 

Ginger  Punch 


Fruit  Cocktail 

Roast  Turkey 

Potato  Puffs  Creamed  Onions 

Celery  Quince  Jelly 

Mince  Tarts 

Coffee 


Fish  in  Aspic,  Tartar  Sauce 

Broiled  Guinea-hens  Sweet  Potatoes 

Elderberry  Jelly 

Lettuce  and  Apple  Salad 

Frozen  Rice  Pudding 

Fruit 

Coffee  Mints 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS     107 
The  Thanksgiving  Dinner 


Cream  of  Spinach  Soup,  Croutons 

Chicken  Casserole,  with  Vegetables 

Spiced  Windfalls  Candied  Sweet  Potatoes 

Thanksgiving  Pudding 

2 

Rabbit  Fricassee     , 

Browned  Hominy  Squares  Grape  Jam 

Celery  and  Lettuce  Salad 

Cheese  Wafers 

Meatless  Mince  Pie 


3 

Halves  of  Grapefruit 

Roast  Turkey  Bananas,  Southern  Style 

Black  Currant  Jelly  Curled  Celery 

Cheese 

Ginger  Fruit  Tarts 

Coffee 


108        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Reception  Menu 
for  the  small  home  wedding 

Chicken  Salad  Sandwiches 

Ripe  Olive  Sandwiches 

Wild  Strawberry  Ice  Cream 

Cocoanut  Kisses 

Bride's  Cake 

Fruit  Punch 

A  Pansy  Luncheon 

Grapefruit  Cocktail 

Panned  Chicken 

New  Peas  and  Tiny  Currants 

Small  Fresh  Rolls 

Olives  Grape  Jelly 

Frozen  Bananas,  Orange  Sauce 

Little  Cakes 

Coffee 

For  this  luncheon,  make  the  most  of  the  pansies  in  all 
their  variegated  loveliness — white,  purple,  brown,  yellow 
— and  let  no  other  color  but  a  background  of  green  and 
white  mar  the  sunshiny-gold  and  purple-lavender  sweet- 
ness of  your  table.  Cover  the  table  with  a  pure  white 
cloth,  use  small  white  tea-napkins,  green-and-white  or 
white-and-gold  china,  and  place  a  small,  low,  white- 
enameled  basket  filled  with  pansies  and  maidenhair  in 
the  center.  Additional  small  baskets,  similar  in  design, 
may  be  filled  with  white  cream  mints,  topped  with  a 
pansy,  tied  with  a  lavender  ribbon,  and  used  as  individual 
favors. 


PLANNING    THE    MEALS     109 

REFERENCES: 

The  Food  Problem,  Kellogg  and  Taylor. 
"Ten  Lessons  on  Food  Conservation/ '  Special  Bulle- 
tin, United  States  Food  Administration. 
Feeding  the  Family,  Mary  Swartz  Rose. 
Every  Day  Menu  Book,  Sarah  Tyson  Rorer. 
New  Cook  Book,  Sarah  Tyson  Rorer. 
Lessons  in  Food  Values  and  Economical  Menus,  Alice 

Bradley. 
The  Cost  of  Food,  Third  Edition,  Ellen  H.  Richards. 
Food  and  Flavor,  Henry  T.  Finck. 
"Planning  and  Serving  Meals,"  Home  Economics  Bul- 
letin, Iowa  State  College,  Ames,  Iowa. 
"Food  for  School  Boys  and  Girls,"  Mary  Swartz  Rose, 
Bulletin   No.    23,   Teachers   College,   New  York, 
N.  Y. 
"How  to  Select  Foods,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  808. 
"How  to  Select  Foods,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  817. 
"How  to  Select  Foods,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  824. 
"Food  for  Young  Children,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  717. 
"School  Lunches,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  712. 

Note. — The  above,  as  well  as  other  valuable  food  bul- 
letins, may  be  obtained  free  of  cost,  or  for  a  nominal  sum, 
by  addressing  the  Division  of  Publications,  or  the  Super- 
intendent of  Documents  at  the  Government  Printing 
Office,  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  Wash- 
ington, D.  C. 

Foods  and  Their  Adulteration,  Third  Edition,  Harvey 

W.  Wiley. 
See  also  references  listed  at  close  of  Chapters  III  and  IV. 

8 


VII 


COOKING   THE    MEALS 


If  women  are  once  more  to  become  home-makers  .  .  . 
we  must  put  it  within  the  strength  and  ability  of  the 
average  woman  to  do  the  work  of  her  home  happily  and 
comfortably. — The  Craftsman  Magazine. 

ND  next  we  are  faced  with  the  work  of 
preparing  these  meals  so  carefully 
planned.  And  it  is  here,  in  front  of 
the  kitchen  stove,  where  so  many  lose 
their  faith,  their  hope — and  falter — for  the  days 
do  come  when  it  is  hard,  very  hard,  to  make  our 
cabbages  look  like  roses;  when  it  is  hard  to  grip, 
and  "keep  your  grip."  These  are  the  days  when 
we  must  say,  with  the  old  philosopher, "  This,  too, 
shall  pass,"  and  begin  again. 

Because  its  repetition  is  so  consistent,  and  so 
endless,  cooking  forms  the  biggest  part  of  all 
household  work,  and  since  approximately  only 
six  per  cent,  of  the  twenty-two  million  homes  in 
America  have  outside  assistance,  the  problem  is 


COOKING   THE    MEALS      in 

necessarily  one  that  affects  the  personal  daily 
life  of  the  great  majority  of  housekeepers. 

Preparing  the  meal  for  a  family  is  something 
which  may  take  an  hour  or  two  out  of  the  day, 
or  it  may  take  all  day.  It  depends  so  much  on 
what  we  know,  what  kind  of  a  philosophy  we 
may  have,  and  how  we  organize  our  knowledge  and 
apply  the  philosophy.  A  good  cook  is  one  who 
spends  little  time  in  the  kitchen,  yet,  through 
some  magic  management,  serves  very  perfect 
meals.  While  the  size  of  a  family  is  an  important 
factor  to  be  reckoned  with,  and  may  materially 
increase  or  decrease  the  time  required  for  cer- 
tain detail  operations  in  connection  with  the 
cooking  and  serving  of  meals,  it  should  not 
affect  to  any  great  degree  the  time  required 
for  preparing  the  food  for  the  day  as  a  whole. 
Although  the  accomplishment  which  combines 
good  cooking  with  little  effort  calls  for  both 
training  and  clear,  reasonable  thinking,  the 
results  are  so  gratifying,  have  come  to  be  so 
important  to  the  world,  and  are,  from  every 
point  of  view,  so  liberating  that  they  are  worth 
striving  for. 

We  cook  our  food  because,  broadly,  it  is  nec- 
essary to  do  so. 

Cooking  makes  many  foods  more  digestible — such 
as  starchy  foods,  cereals,  many  vegetables,  some 
fruits,  and  the  connective  tissue  of  meat. 


ii2        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Cooking  develops  or  modifies  flavor,  making  many 
foods  more  palatable,  and  makes  increased  variety 
and  attractiveness,  as  well  as  many  economies  in 
the  use  of  food,  possible. 

Cooking  is  a  means  of  sterilizing  food,  when  this  is 
desirable  or  necessary. 

Different  methods  of  cooking  are  commonly 
practised— boiling,  stewing,  steaming,  toasting, 
broiling,  roasting,  braising,  baking,  panning,  sau- 
teing,  frying — all  of ;  which  serve  many  good  ends 
in  the  preparation  of  food,  although  certain  meth- 
ods of  cooking  are  better  for  some  foods  than 
others.  To  make  food  more  wholesome  and  more 
acceptable  is  the  principle  underlying  all  good 
cooking.  Any  method  that  will  accomplish  this 
end  without  food  waste,  retaining  as  far  as  pos- 
sible all  the  original  nutrients  in  the  food,  is  a 
good  method;  other  factors  being  equal,  that 
requiring  the  least  effort  and  time,  combined 
with  fuel  economy,  is  always  the  better  method, 
while  food  that  is  good  without  cooking  is  usually 
best  served  in  that  way — except  where  variety 
may  be  particularly  needed,  or  where  cooking 
may  prevent  food  waste. 

Cooking  is  a  necessary,  profitable,  and  en- 
nobling occupation  up  to  the  point  of  making 
food  more  wholesome  and  more  acceptable.  Be- 
yond this,  when  it  reaches  the  point  of  spending 


COOKING    THE    MEALS       113 

the  better  part  of  the  day  converting  clean,  honest 
food  into  complicated,  over-elaborated  dishes, 
which  are  neither  wholesome  nor  digestible  and 
are  carelessly  eaten  in  a  few  minutes,  it  is  hardly 
profitable.  When  practised  to  the  exclusion  or 
neglect  of  other  necessary  thought  and  work — 
sacrificing,  as  it  can,  home  happiness,  health,  even 
'the  wealth  of  the  country — it  is  enslaving,  and 
very  rapidly  deteriorates  into  that  drudgery 
which  many  believe  is  its  true  and  only  r6le. 
In  order  to  cook  so  that  the  work  is  a  great  health 
and  happiness  giving  service,  so  that  it  enriches 
and  does  not  exhaust,  it  must  be  understood 
and  organized  in  the  mind  just  as  home-making 
as  a  whole  must  be  understood  and  organized. 
Only  in  this  way  can  cooking  be  reduced  and 
simplified  without  sacrificing  the  pleasures  of  a 
delightful  table  to  which  every  one  is  entitled, 
and  without  which  life  would  mean  very  little, 
or  paying  for  our  freedom  through  the  purchase 
of  expensive  food  materials  requiring  little  or  no 
troublesome  preparation  to  make  them  whole- 
some and  palatable. 

The  essentials  of  good,  attractive,  economical 
and  easily  managed  cooking  include: 

1.  A  knowledge  of  food  materials,  which  covers: 

The  chemical  composition  and  digestibility  of 
different  foods,  both  raw  and  cooked. 


ii4        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

The  effect  of  heat,  and  varying  degrees  of  heat, 
on  different  food  principles  and  foods,  as  to 
digestibility,  form,  appearance,  flavor. 

2.  A  knowledge  of  cooking  methods,  which  covers: 

The  best,  simplest,  and  quickest  methods  of 
preparing  foods  previous  to  cooking. 

Example:  Washing  potatoes  and  cooking  them  ■ 
without  paring  saves  time,  waste, 
and  is  desirable  from  a  health  stand- 
point. 

The  processes  of  cooking,  or  practical  methods 
of  applying  heat — boiling,  baking,  broiling,  etc. 
— with  ability  to  quickly  determine  which  meth- 
ods, under  certain  conditions,  will  produce  the 
best  results  with  the  least  effort,  in  the  least 
time,  and  with  the  greatest  fuel  economy. 

Standardization  of  cooking  temperatures  as  far 
as  practical;  use  of  a  thermometer,  rather  than 
variable,  practical  tests  to  determine  temper- 
atures most  desirable  for  cooking  certain  foods, 
or  for  obtaining  certain  desired  results;  this 
insures  repeated  successes,  uniform  results,  and 
saves  anxiety  as  well  as  wasted  effort  and  food 
materials. 

Examples:  Use  an  oven  thermometer  or  indi- 
cator when  baking;  note  what 
temperature  produces  best  results 
— for  bread,  cake,  rolls,  etc. — and 
have  oven  heated  to  this  tempera- 
ture when  baking. 


COOKING    THE    MEALS       uS 

Use  a  candy  thermometer  for 
syrups,  candy-making,  and  boiled 
frostings. 

Use  a  thermometer — one  register- 
ing as  high  as  four  hundred  de- 
grees Fahrenheit — for  testing  deep 
fat  for  frying.1 

Best  methods  of  combining  different  materials, 
with  a  ready  understanding  of  the  effect  of  one 
ingredient  on  another,  including  resourcefulness 
in  substituting  one  material  for  another  accord- 
ing to  need,  economy  or  convenience,  or  desire. 

Example:  Such  as  the  use  of  sour  milk  and 
baking-soda  in  place  of  sweet  milk 
and  baking-powder,  or  chicken  fat 
in  place  of  butter,  or  rye  flour  in 
place  of  wheat,  etc. 

Accuracy  in  measuring  ingredients,  use  of 
measuring  cups  and  spoons,  and  some  knowledge 
of  proportions. 

Example:  Two  level  tablespoonfuls  fat,  two 
level  teaspoonfuls  flour,  and  one 
cupful  liquid  is  the  rule  for  a  good 
sauce;  the  fat  used  may  vary  ac- 
cording to  convenience  or  desire,  and 
the  liquid  according  to  flavor  desired 
— the  proportions  remain  the  same. 

xSee  "Some  Attempts  to  Standardize  Oven  Tempera- 
tures," M.  B.  Van  Arsdale,  Teachers  College,  New  York, 
N.  Y. 

Also,  New  Cook  Book,  Mrs.  S.  T.  Rorer. 

Also,  Boston  Cooking- School  Cook  Book,  F.  M.  Farmer. 


n6       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Appreciation  of  types  of  cooking  utensils  best 
fitted  for  preparing  or  cooking  certain  foods. 

Examples:  The  use  of  glass  baking-dishes  to 
insure  a  brown  undercrust  for 
pastry  or  biscuits. 

For  efficient  results,  mixing-bowls 
should  be  conical  in  shape,  not 
flat  on  the  bottom. 

The  use  of  wooden  spoons  for  mix- 
ing and  stirring. 

3.  Efficient  working  conditions: 
These  cover: 
A  well-planned,  convenient,  inspiring  kitchen. 

'  Equipment  and  tools  or  cooking  utensils  that 
will  facilitate  work  and  save  all  unnecessary 
labor. 

A  comfortable,  washable,  becoming  kitchen 
uniform,  including  a  cap,  white  stockings,  and 
well-fitting,  good-looking,  low-heeled  shoes. 

Every  woman  in  the  country  is  entitled  to  the 
best  kitchen  equipment  and  uniform  that  the 
work  of  her  particular  household  demands.  Any 
system  of  living  that  does  not  make  this  possible 
is  unfair  in  the  extreme;  where  the  income  of  a 
home  cannot  afford  right  working  conditions  for 
the  housekeeper,  these  should  be  provided  for,  in 
some  way,  by  the  state  or  community. 


COOKING    THE    MEALS       117     ' 

4.  Elimination  of  all  unnecessary,  elaborate  cooking. 

5.  Simplification  of  all  necessary  cooking,  making  as 
little  work  of  this  as  possible,  and  keeping  this  work 
under  control.  The  following  suggestions,  put  into 
practice,  can  be  most  helpful: 

Have  menus  planned  in  advance;  let  these  in- 
clude frequent  " one-dish"  and  "two-course" 
meals,1  also  include  dishes  requiring  little  or  no 
cooking— fresh  fruits,  raisins,  dates,  figs,  nuts, 
milk,  cocoa,  chocolate,  cheese,  salads,  egg  dishes, 
fish  dishes,  cream  soups,  sandwiches,  gelatin, 
and  frozen  desserts. 

Plan  an  adaptable  schedule  of  work  fitted  to 
particular  home  conditions,  with  greatly  reduced 
work  for  Sundays,  holidays,  hot  weather.1  Plan 
"cookless"  meals  for  these  days;  "picnics"  and 
"tray -suppers"  save  work  and  give  pleasure. 

Do  all  kitchen  work  as  far  as  possible  before 
9  A.M. 

When  cooking  cereals,  beans,  vegetables,  etc., 
cook  enough  at  one  time  to  cover  several  meals; 
serve  in  different  forms. 

Use  a  fireless  cooker  for  overnight  cooking: 
cereals,  beans,  vegetables,  stewed  fruits,  stews, 
a  fowl  or  other  piece  of  meat,  may  all  be  pre- 
pared in  this  way,  when  convenient,  and  much 
time  and  work  during  the  day  will  be  saved. 

1  See  "Hot  Weather  Cooking  Suggestions,"  on  p.  253. 
Also,  " Fuel-saving  Menus,"  on  pp.  93~94- 


n8        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

"Oven  dinners,"  "two-story"  steamer  dinners, 
the  baking  of  breads  and  cakes  in  small  pans — 
all  save  time  and  fuel. 

An  "emergency  cupboard,"  stocked  with  ready- 
to-eat  foods,  frequently  saves  time  and  con- 
fusion. 

Form,  arrangement,  color,  flavor,  count  high  in 
food  satisfaction,  but  cost  little  in  time  and 
money. 

Reliable  "rules,"  "tables,"  and  "foundation 
recipes"  are  more  convenient  and  helpful  than 
a  confused  mass  of  scattered,  individual  recipes. 
A  good  cook-book  or  set  of  recipes  may  be  used 
as  a  guide  or  reference,  but  it  is  more  efficient  to 
work  without  constantly  referring  to  a  recipe. 

Enlist  the  co-operation  of  other  members  of  the 
family. 

Fuels  used  for  cooking  include  wood,  coal, 
coke,  kerosene  oil,  gas,  electricity,  and,  for  small 
quantity,  cooking  alcohol.  While  the  use  of  coal 
may  still  be  necessary  in  some  localities,  the  coal 
stove  or  range  for  home  cooking  represents  econ- 
omy in  neither  fuel  nor  labor.  The  proportion  of 
coal  used  for  generating  the  heat  required  for 
family  cooking  is  extravagant,  much  of  this  heat 
is  wasted,  and  the  care  of  the  stove  is  a  burden. 
Gas,  oil,  and  electricity  are  now  the  practical 


COOKING    THE    MEALS       119 

and  popular  fuels,  with  the  latter,  particularly, 
promising  still  further  economy,  relief,  and  satis- 
faction for  the  future.  The  great  needs  of  the 
present — conservation  of  our  national  resources 
and  freedom  for  the  housekeeper — are  definitely 
recognized  in  the  construction  of  all  the  newer 
stoves  in  which  these  fuels  are  burned. 

These  stoves  have  all  been  so  perfected,  in- 
cluding automatic  operation  in  clever  combina- 
tion with  fireless  ovens,  with  all  unnecessary  heat 
radiation  carefully  controlled,  that  cooking  may 
be  facilitated  to  a  remarkable  degree,  and  fuel 
economy  correspondingly  increased.  At  the  same 
time,  all  quick-cooking  methods — broiling,  boil- 
ing, frying — are  perfectly  provided  for.  These 
stoves  are,  in  addition,  so  constructed  and  finished 
that  care  and  cleaning  amount  to  very  little  com- 
pared with  the  old  ' '  stove-polishing ' '  days.  Where 
fireless  cooking  is  not  otherwise  provided  for,  a 
reliable  one-,  two-,  or  three-compartment  cooker 
may  stand,  raised  to  a  convenient  height,  near 
the  range.  Separate  gas,  oil,  or  coal  water- 
heaters,  operating  at  low  cost,  and  in  cases  auto- 
matically, will  supply  the  needed  hot  water. 

Since  the  use  of  more  than  one  fuel  is  prac- 
ticable in  almost  all  localities,  and  since  each  fuel 
may  have  certain  advantages  under  certain  condi- 
tions, an  intelligent  combination  of  fuels  suggests 
the  most  satisfactory  solution  of  the   cooking 


120        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

problem  for  many  homes.  These  fuel  combina- 
tions may  be : 

Wood,  coal,  and  gas. 
Coal  and  gas. 
Coal  and  oil. 
Coal  and  electricity. 
Oil  and  electricity. 
Gas  and  electricity. 

Local  conditions  and  individual  need  or  prefer- 
ence must  determine  the  choice.  With  each  one 
of  these  fuels  or  combinations  some  means  of 
tireless  cooking  can  be  included,  resulting  in  every 
possible  cooking  advantage: 

A  warm  kitchen  in  winter. 

A  cool  kitchen  in  summer. 

An  attractive  kitchen  at  all  times. 

An  abundant  supply  of  hot  water  for  the  large 

family. 

Some  special  convenience  for  the  small  family. 

Some  advantage  for  the  housekeeper  who  is  also  a 

business  woman  outside  the  home. 

All  degrees  of  heat  for  all  methods  of  cooking. 

Always  the  maximum  economy  in  fuel,  time,  and 

labor. 

Where  the  use  of  coal  is  desirable,  the  two- 
or  three-fuel  ranges  are  practical.  Either  coal  or 
wood,  in  combination  with  either  gas  or  kerosene 
oil,  may  be  burned  in  the  one  range,  thus  provid- 
ing the  needed  heat  for  a  cold  kitchen  in  winter 


COOKING    THE    MEALS       121 

without  a  corresponding  disadvantage  during  the 
summer  months.  In  cases,  both  fuels  may  be 
burned  in  the  one  range  at  the  same  time,  fur- 
nishing increased  cooking  capacity  without  re- 
quiring increased  floor  space.  Again,  under  some 
conditions,  instead  of  investing  in  one  stove  of 
generous  capacity  that  fulfils  every  cooking  need, 
it  may  be  more  convenient,  satisfactory,  and 
economical  to  have  two  small  stoves  of  distinctly 
different  types.  A  small  electric  range  with  a 
generous  oven,  for  both  baking  and  broiling,  and 
a  one-  or  two-burner  oil-stove,  supplemented  with 
a  device  or  two  for  table  cooking — perhaps  a 
chafing-dish  and  a  coffee-pot — may  give  the  acme 
of  cooking  comfort  and  pleasure.  A  small  gas 
hot-plate,  with  a  first-class  portable  oven  and  an 
electric  table  stove  or  grill,  suggests  another  com- 
bination possibility.  For  the  country  home,  an 
out-of-door  camp  stove,  or  an  old-fashioned  stone 
fireplace  in  which  surplus  wood  may  be  burned, 
may  give  much  pleasure  and  be  most  profitable 
at  the  same  time. 

The  advantages  of  fireless  cooking  must  be 
neither  undervalued  nor  overestimated.  While 
the  fireless  cooker  is  a  most  useful  device,  and,  in- 
telligently handled,  can  accomplish  much — con- 
serving time,  fuel,  food — it  should  be  used,  more 
particularly,  for  those  foods  that  would  normally 
require  long,  slow  cooking  in  covered  containers, 


122       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

and  for  other  methods  of  cooking  where  conven- 
ience or  necessity  demands.  Fireless  cooking  is 
reallyamethod  in  itself,  just  as  baking  and  broiling 
are  methods.  The  principle  of  successful  fireless 
cooking  lies  in  the  fact  that  sufficient  heat,  both 
in  quantity  and  in  degree,  must  be  introduced,  and 
retained  until  the  food  is  thoroughly  cooked.  A 
small  quantity  of  food  only  partially  heated 
through,  and  placed  in  a  large  container  in  a 
cooker,  will  not  hold  sufficient  heat  to  accomplish 
satisfactory  cooking. 

The  all-metal  box,  aluminum  lined,  with  alum- 
inum containers,  and  insulated  with  mineral 
wool,  is  the  most  durable,  and  if  properly  handled 
should  not  rust,  warp,  or  absorb  odors.  Very 
satisfactory  small  cookers  may  also  be  made  at 
home.1  Any  reliable  fireless  cooker  should  give 
good  service  if  the  following  points  are  observed: 

Read  carefully  the  descriptive  circular  and  direc- 
tions which  accompany  every  good  cooker. 

Spend  at  least  a  week  in  learning  how  to  use  it. 
A  certain  amount  of  experimenting  must  be  done 
before  the  best  results  can  be  obtained;  reserve 
judgment  until  a  cooker  has  been  fairly  tested. 

Do  not  force  its  use,  nor  expect  it  to  accomplish  the 
impossible. 

1  Directions  may  be  obtained  from  the  United  States 
Department  of  Agriculture, 

See,  also,  Scott,  Home  Labor-saving  Devices,  p.  39. 


COOKING   THE    MEALS       123 

Keep  it  scrupulously  clean  and  dry  at  all  times, 
and  well  aired  when  not  in  use.  If  the  aluminum 
becomes  discolored,  clean  with  steel  wool  and  a  neu- 
tral soap. 

While  table  cooking  is  always  delightful,  since 
the  advent  of  electricity  it  is  now  also  recognized  as 
a  thoroughly  practical  convenience  for  the  woman 
who  does  her  own  work.  It  is  of  special  advan- 
tage, perhaps,  for  the  small  family,  for  the  house- 
keeper who  is  also  a  business  woman  outside  the 
home,  and  for  use  on  the  eating-porch  during  hot 
weather.  But  here  again,  as  in  the  case  of  the 
fireless  cooker,  this  method  of  cooking  should  not 
be  forced,  and  only  quick-cooking  foods  at- 
tempted— such  as  eggs,  cheese,  fish,  etc.  For  the 
summer  evening  dinner,  a  chafing-dish  or  small 
table-stove  is  also  sometimes  practical  for  re- 
heating a  stew  or  chowder  that  has  been  pre- 
viously prepared  early  in  the  day. 

Definite  choice  of  any  stove  is  controlled  first 
of  all,  of  course,  by  the  kind  of  fuel  that  repre- 
sents the  greatest  economy  in  the  locality,  and, 
second,  by  the  number  in  family  to  be  provided 
for.  In  addition  to  this,  other  considerations 
must  be  taken  into  account,  and  certain  practical 
details  checked  before  the  wisest  (Jecision  can 
always  be  made.  There  is,  for  example,  the 
kitchen  floor  and  wall  space  to  be  considered, 
the  method  of  cooking  preferred  or  most  con- 


i24        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

venient,  and  the  construction,  material,  and 
shape  that  will  best  satisfy  the  standards  of  a  good 
stove  and  one's  own  esthetic  need.  Where  more 
than  one  fuel  offers  itself,  estimating  compara- 
tive costs  of  operating  different  stoves,  and  bal- 
ancing certain  practical  advantages  in  construc- 
tion, or  possible  results,  of  one  stove  against 
another,  under  the  particular  home  conditions  in 
which  it  is  to  be  used,  can  help  one  to  come  to  a 
profitable  conclusion.  When  installing  a  stove 
all  connections  and  necessary  adjustments  should 
be  prope*  1y  made,  when  operating  it  the  directions 
provided  by  the  manufacturer  should  be  observed, 
and  a  stove  should  receive  such  regular  care  as 
will  keep  it  in  good  working  order  so  that  the 
maximum  satisfaction  and  economy  shall  result. 

Not  until  the  right  attitude  toward  kitchen 
work  is  generally  adopted  shall  the  food  help 
that  the  world  now  needs  from  the  homes  of 
America  be  effectively  and  truly  realized,  and  our 
own  individual  release  at  the  same  time  come  to 
pass.  As  we  have  been  told  over  and  over  again, 
this  help  must  come  through  organized  knowl- 
edge and  the  ability  to  put  that  knowledge  into 
practice.  Whether,  as  housekeepers,  we  do  the 
cooking  ourselves  or  not,  is  no  longer  part  of  the 
question.  Practical  food  and  housekeeping  knowl- 
edge is  needed  by  every  one  of  our  twenty-two 
million  housekeepers  or  the  American  home  cannot 


COOKING    THE    MEALS       125 

register  as   a   positive  stronghold   in   the  crisis 
through  which  history  is  passing. 

Unfortunately,  however,  it  is  not  only  this 
knowledge  that  is  needed — the  knowledge  itself 
is,  after  all,  not  so  difficult  to  acquire — some- 
thing must  be  done  to  make  us  want  the  knowledge 
needed.  Something  must  be  done  to  make  us 
think  of  the  work  done  in  our  kitchens  as  also 
"one  of  the  forces  now  operating,  the  sum  of 
which  is  to  set  the  world  free."  Something  must 
be  done  to  change  the  thought  that  kitchen  work 
is  drudgery,  despised,  to  the  truer  thought  that 
it  can  be  more  nearly  like  a  holiday  in  fairy-land. 
There  is  a  way,  if  we  can  only  make  the  spirit 
go  and  find  it. 

REFERENCES: 
See  References  at  close  of  Chapters  IV,  V,  VI,  XI.  Also, 

Boston  Cooking-School  Cook  Book,  Fannie  Merritt  Farmer. 

New  Book  of  Cookery,  Fannie  Merritt  Farmer. 

Food  and  Cookery  for  the  Sick,  Fannie  Merritt  Farmer. 

Key  to  Simple  Cookery,  Sarah  Tyson  Rorer. 

Bread  and  Bread  Making,  Sarah  Tyson  Rorer. 

New  Salads,  Sarah  Tyson  Rorer. 

Vegetable  Cookery  and  Meat  Substitutes,  Sarah  Tyson 
Rorer. 

Cooking  for  Two,  Janey  McKenzie  Hill. 

How  to  Cook  and  Why,  Condit  and  Long. 

"Ninety  Tested,  Palatable,  Economical  Recipes,"  Bul- 
letin No.  34,  Teachers  College,  New  York,  N.  Y. 
y 


126       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

The  Cook  Book  of  Left-Overs,  Clarke  and  Rulon. 
The  Corn  Cook  Book,  Elizabeth  O.  Hiller. 
Foods  and  Household  Management,  Kinne  and  Cooley. 
"Some  Attempts  to  Standardize  Oven  Temperatures, " 
Bulletin  No.  22,  May  B.  Van  Arsdale,  Teachers 
College,  New  York,  N.  Y. 
Economics  of  Electric  Cooking,  P.  W.  Gumaer,  Univer- 
sity of  Missouri,  Columbia,  Mo. 
The  Chemistry  of  Cooking  and  Cleaning,  Richards  and 

Elliot. 
Bacteria,  Yeasts,  Molds  in  the  Home,  H.  W.  Conn. 
Farmers'  Bulletins,  published  by  Department  of  Home 
Economics,   United  States  Department  of  Agri- 
culture. 

A  list  of  valuable  food  and  cookery  bulletins — 
containing  food  facts,  cooking  instructions,  and 
recipes — available  for  free  distribution,  or  for 
a  nominal  sum,  may  be  obtained  by  addressing 
the  Division  of  Publications,  United  States  De- 
partment of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C. 
American  Cookery,  Boston  Cooking  School  Magazine 
Company,  Boston,  Mass. 
Particularly  valuable  for  its  illustrations  and  ex- 
cellent up-to-date  recipes. 
Special  and  emergency  recipes,  as  required,  covering 
foods  to  be  used  or  spared  by  the  country,  may  always 
be  obtained  from: 

The  United  States  Food  Administration,  Washington, 

D.  C. 
The  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  Wash- 
ington, D.  C. 
The  State  Agricultural  Colleges. 

See,  also,  References  listed  at  close  of  Chapter  III. 


VIII 


SERVING    THE    MEALS 


To  simplify  is  often  to  beautify.  To  rid  modern  life 
of  its  knickknacks  is  to  make  room  for  those  things  which 
are  necessary  and  beautiful. — Mrs.  Havelock  Ellis. 


00D  service  means  attractive,  happy 
service — that  is  all !  Since  the  pleasure 
food  can  give  is  a  very  real  part  of  the 
benefit  it  holds,  good  service  is  as  es- 
sential as  good  cooking.  The  appearance  of  a 
dish,  its  flavor,  the  way  it  is  placed  upon  the 
table,  are  quite  as  important,  in  many  ways,  as 
the  actual  nourishment  which  that  dish  may  con- 
tain. In  other  words,  unless  one  eats  with  appe- 
tite and  relish,  unless  things  "look  good — and 
taste  good,"  one  does  not  get  full  value  from  the 
food  served,  nor  for  the  time  and  money  spent 
on  it.  At  the  present  time,  it  is,  moreover,  par- 
ticularly important  that  all  food  cooked  and  served 
should  be  palatable  and  attractive,  so  that  it  will 
be  eaten  and  not  left  on  the  plate  to  be  thrown 
away,  which  is  only  food  waste  in  another  form. 


128        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Just  how  good  service  shall  be  accomplished 
in  the  home  depends  largely  upon  ideals  and 
standards,  as  well  as  practical  conditions,  of  liv- 
ing. There  are,  briefly,  two  kinds  of  service — 
formal  and  informal.  Where  the  desire  for  the 
former  exists,  and  can  be  satisfied  in  the  right 
way — with  properly  recognized  professional  ser- 
vice— there  is  really  no  service  problem,  all  de- 
tails of  table  arrangement  and  dining-room  ser-' 
vice  being  largely  a  matter  of  individual  taste 
or  preference  and  accepted  convenience. 

Since,  however,  the  majority  of  housekeepers 
must  serve  a  meal  as  well  as  cook  it,  and  eat, 
and  entertain,  and  clear  it  all  away  again — 
almost  in  the  same  breath — this  final  phase  of  our 
food  problem  remains  to  be  solved  in  some  prac- 
tical, happy,  informal  way.  How  to  do  it  with- 
out making  a  slave  of  some  member  of  the  family 
is  again  the  question,  and  again  it  is  a  question 
that  must  be  solved  step  by  step — in  some  orderly 
fashion. 

Serving  a  meal  includes: 

Arranging  the  dining-table. 
Carrying  food  from  kitchen  to  table. 
Serving  at  the  table. 
Clearing  the  table. 
Dish-washing. 

These  are  the  steps  to  be  approached  and 
simplified,  reduced  to  their  very  lowest  terms,  as 


SERVING   THE    MEALS       129 

it  were.    Taken  as  a  whole,  this  may  be  accom- 
plished to  a  very  great  degree  by: 

1.  Simplifying  menus,  as  previously  suggested;  that 
is,  reducing  the  number  of  courses  served,  and  con- 
sequently the  number  of  utensils  and  dishes  used, 
to  be  carried  back  and  forth,  and  to  be  washed  and 
put  away  again.  In  this  connection,  let  us  not  for- 
get the  following  types  of  meals,  which  are  always 
delightful  and  becoming  more  popular  as  their  prac- 
tical value  is  appreciated: 

"Kitchen  alcove' '  breakfasts. 
"One  dish"  luncheons. 
"Two-course"  dinners. 
"Tray-suppers"  for  the  porch  or  fireside. 
"Picnic-basket"  meals. 

2.  Reducing  dining-room  and  table  appointments  to  a 
minimum,  and  placing  on  the  table  only  dishes  and 
food  that  give  one  pleasure  to  look  at,  handle,  or 
eat.  Beauty  has  a  wonderful  way  of  reducing  labor 
and  neutralizing  fatigue.  Perhaps  this  is  a  subtle 
point  to  make,  but  we  have  only  to  experiment  to 
know  that  it  is  so. 

A  sprig  of  fresh  parsley  here,  a  slice  of  lemon 
there,  the  radish  rose,  the  olive,  the  bit  of  pi- 
mento, and  the  table  will  have  a  crispness  and 
a  sparkle  and  a  lightness  that  seem  to  dissipate 
any  work  there  may  be  in  caring  for  it.  Even  the 
paper  doily  under  the  baked  custards,  the  leaf 
in  the  ringer-bowl,  the  flower  in  the  center  of  the 
table  have  a  drudgery-reducing  value  all  their 
own. 


130        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Perhaps  the  most  practicable  and  at  the  same 
time  the  most  artistic  and  attractive  table  itself 
is  the  plain,  painted  table — in  cream- white  or 
black — waxed  to  a  polish,  and  arranged  with 
very  little  or  even  no  linen,  and  as  few  dishes  and 
pieces  of  silver  as  possible.  Such  a  table  is  easily 
washed  with  soap  and  water,  it  can  be  kept  im- 
maculate with  very  little  effort,  there  is  little 
linen  to  fold,  put  away,  launder,  and  the  table 
itself  furnishes  the  very  loveliest  background  for 
flowers  of  any  kind  and  whatever  cheerful,  gaily 
colored  pottery  china  we  may  choose  to  have. 

Small  pieces  of  linen — which  does  not  mean  in- 
numerable small  doilies — are  always  more  prac- 
tical than  the  large  table-cloth  with  its  accom- 
panying heavy,  padded  under-cloth,  always  a 
trouble  to  fold,  wash,  and  care  for.  For  the  aver- 
age table,  a  small  linen  piece  in  the  center,  or  a 
narrow  runner,  with  little  tea-napkins  to  match, 
is  all  the  linen  required.  The  unbleached  crash 
linens  and  the  Japanese  crepe  towelings  are  best 
for  this  purpose,  and  most  attractive  pieces  can 
be  made  very  quickly  at x  very  little  expense. 
Paper  doilies  and  napkins  may  be  substituted 
for  linen,  if  desired;  while  these  may  not  be 
as  attractive  as  the  linen,  they  are  worth  con- 
sidering where  the  laundry  problem  is  at  all 
troublesome. 

Flat  silver  free  from  unnecessary  ornamentation 
is  the  most  comfortable  to  handle,  looks  best  on 
the  table,  and  is  the  easiest  to  keep  clean. 

Do  not  have  one  service  for  " every  day"  and 
another  for  "company"  and  " Sundays."     This 


SERVING    THE    MEALS       131 

complicates  matters,  and  the  idea  is  not  sound. 
Let  us  live  as  happily  as  we  can — always — 
according  to  our  means  and  standards,  and  then 
that  which  is  good  enough  for  our  own  family 
is  surely  good  enough  for  others. 

3.  Checking  kitchen  convenience  in  relation  to  the 
dining-room — how  many  steps  from  stove  to  table? 
from  sink  to  table?  from  dresser  with  dishes  and 
silver  to  table? 

Narrow,  open,  painted  shelves  for  the  china,  with 
hooks  for  cups  and  pitchers,  are  more  practical 
than  the  deep  closet,  or  a  dresser  with  doors. 
These  shelves  should  be  located  in  convenient 
relation  to  both  the  sink  where  the  dish-washing 
is  done  and  the  dining-room  table. 

4.  Making  use  of  all  practical  step-  and  labor-saving 
devices: 

A  "tray-wagon"  or  a  "wheel-tray,"  on  rolling 
casters  or  small  wheels,  also  finished  in  a  hard 
enamel  paint,  and  complete  with  a  series  of 
shelves,  including  one  sliding  shelf  or  drawer — 
with  partitions — for  holding  all  flat  silver  in 
constant  use,  will  further  simplify  service  and 
make  every  meal  comfortable  for  every  member 
of  the  family.  If  such  an  "assistant"  is  cleverly 
used,  it  is  easily  possible  to  serve  an  entire  meal 
without  any  one  leaving  the  table  at  any  time. 
This  tray  should  have  a  permanent  place  in  the 
kitchen  near  both  stove  and  sink,  so  that  it  can 
be  of  equal  service  for  carrying  food  from  the 
stove  to  the  table,  as  well  as  soiled  dishes  from 
the  table  to  the  sink. 


i32        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

The  many  interesting  glass  and  earthen  baking- 
dishes  which  meet  every  requirement  of  perfect 
cooking  and  perfect  service  suggest  another  means 
of  saving  labor,  for  the  one  dish  "both  cooks  and 
serves." 

Paper  dishes  are  practical  at  times.  When  pur- 
chased by  the  gross  from  a  wholesale  paper- goods 
concern  they  are  much  less  expensive  than  when 
purchased  by  the  dozen  in  a  department  store. 

Cooking  at  the  table  is  another  happy  thought. 
An  electric  chafing-dish,  coffee-pot,  toaster,  or  one 
of  the  fascinating  " table-stoves'*  can  save  many 
steps  and  will  take  good  care  of  the  small  family. 

The  picnic-basket — fortified  with  an  alcohol- 
kettle  or  a  vacuum  bottle — might  be  used  much 
more  frequently  than  it  is.  Instead  of  closing 
the  eyes  to  the  sunshine  and  the  flowers  as  a 
sterner  conscience  whispers  " dinner,' '  why  not 
spread  a  cloth  under  the  protecting  branches  of 
an  apple-tree  just  bursting  into  bloom,  and  in- 
vite family  and  friends  to  a  meal  in  fairy-land? 
Every  one  will  be  the  better  and  happier  for  such 
a  treat.  Call  it  an  apple-blossom  party  if  you 
will,  and  have  one  on  the  first  warm  day  when 
the  blossoms  open,  and  another  the  next,  and  still 
another  before  the  blossoms  fall. 

5.  Enlisting  the  interested  co-operation  of  all  members 
of  the  family. 

By  taking  turns  in  caring  for  the  table,  children 
can  be  taught  housekeeping,  as  well  as  service  for 
others,  in  a  happy,  practical,  wholesome  way. 


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SERVING   THE    MEALS        133 

6.  Organizing  some  effective  method  of  caring  for  the 
dish -washing  problem,  as  follows: 

Eliminate  as  much  dish-washing  as  possible  by 
simplifying  meals  and  service,  as  suggested. 

Install  proper  dish -washing  equipment: 

A  large,  white-enameled  or  porcelain  sink — in- 
stalled at  the  proper  height,  near  a  window  with 
a  pleasant  outlook — and  running  hot  water  in 
abundance  are  the  first  requisites  of  simplified 
dish -washing. 

The  following  small  equipment  kept  near  the 
sink,  in  some  orderly  arrangement,  will  further 
simplify  the  work: 

Porcelain  jar  for  soap-powder. 

Porcelain  jar  for  soda. 

Ammonia. 

Reliable  friction  cleanser. 

Steel  wool  for  cleaning  aluminum,  etc. 

Faucet  soap-dish,  with  neutral  soap. 

Copper  dish-mop. 

Copper  dish-cloth. 

Sink  strainer. 

Bottle-brush. 

Utility  brush. 

Cork  knife-cleaner. 

Small  emery -stone. 

White  fiber  tray. 

Dish-drainer. 

Dish-pan. 

Small  enameled  garbage-can. 

Crash  dish-towels. 


134        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Linen  glass-towels. 

Paper  towels. 

Hand-brush. 

Lemon  and  cold-cream  for  the  hands. 

For  the  large  family,  the  dish-washing  machine 
is  already  demonstrating  its  usefulness,  and 
greatly  improved  types  are  on  the  market  or 
under  construction.  A  machine  must  be  selected 
with  care  and  judgment,  however.  One  operated 
by  electricity,  where  this  is  available,  is,  of  course, 
preferable  to  one  operated  by  hand.  Any  ma- 
chine selected  and  used  should  be  simple  in 
construction  so  that  care  and  cleaning  are  easy, 
should  be  durable,  should  not  occupy  unneces- 
sary floor  space,  and  should  be  so  constructed 
that  it  can  be  permanently  connected  with 
water-supply  and  disposal  pipes. 

For  the  small  family,  and  in  the  home  where 
hot  water  is  abundant,  dishes  can  sometimes  be 
very  quickly  washed  by  placing  them  in  a  deep 
wire  rack  or  dish-drainer,  sprinkling  them  with 
soap-powder,  and  allowing  scalding  water  from 
the  faucet  to  run  over  and  through  them.  The 
drainer  may  then  be  lifted  from  the  sink, 
placed  on  the  drain  board,  and  the  dishes  allowed 
to  stand  until  dry. 

Work  in  an  orderly  manner: 

Just  what  routine  is  best  followed  must  be  de- 
cided by  each  individual  housekeeper.  So  long 
as  the  work  is  done  quickly  and  well,  the  exact 
process  matters  little.     Much  time  is  saved,  and 


SERVING    THE    MEALS       135 

it  is  usually  more  sanitary,  if  dishes  are  allowed 
to  dry  by  draining.  Dishes  should  always  be 
carefully  scraped,  or  wiped  with  paper,  before 
washing;  this  is  particularly  important  in  con- 
nection with  greasy  dishes  or  pans. 

Our  country  as  an  industrial  art  center  is  de- 
veloping rapidly.  In  every  phase  of  living,  pub- 
lic taste  is  demanding  the  artistic  as  well  as  the 
practical.  Useful  household  articles  of  every  kind, 
from  the  pots  and  kettles  hanging  in  our  kitchens 
to  the  fixtures  in  the  bathroom,  are  now  chosen 
for  line,  form,  color,  as  well  as  for  general  useful- 
ness, wearing  qualities,  and  other  practical  ad- 
vantages. In  no  field,  however,  has  the  American 
producer  of  household  requisites  assembled  greater 
talent  than  in  the  manufacture  of  furnishings  and 
equipment  for  the  dining-room  and  table.  Artists 
with  a  real  message  for  the  world  are  now  design- 
ing our  everyday  knives  and  forks  and  spoons, 
our  dinner-plates  and  teapots,  the  glass  from 
which  we  drink  our  water,  the  linen  on  the  table. 
Everything  we  handle,  in  this  connection,  can  be 
a  source  of  rest  and  inspiration.  Every  moment 
spent  in  the  preparation  and  serving  of  meals 
should  be  one  of  the  brightest  spots  in  life,  one 
very  real  thing  that  relieves  and  balances  the 
struggle  to  live.  That  it  is  not,  is  one  of  the  sad- 
dest facts  in  the  history  of  the  world  at  this  time. 
Knowledge,  well-ordered,  is  suggested  over  and 


136        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

over  again  as  a  remedy — and  it  is  the  only  prac- 
tical remedy  to  offer.  But  all  the  knowledge,  all 
the  theories,  all  the  order  in  the  world  can  never 
entirely  remedy  matters  unless  we  ourselves  can 
and  will  see  household  service  stripped  of  its 
drudgery  and  revealed  in  its  true  light. 

REFERENCES: 

For  practical  instructions  and  helpful  suggestions  in 

the  serving  of  meals,  the  following  publications  will 

be  found  of  value: 

Table  Service,  Lucy  G.  Allen. 

Planning  and  Furnishing  the  Home,  Mary  J.  Quinn. 

The  Efficient  Kitchen,  Georgie  B.  Child. 

The  New  Housekeeping,  Christine  Frederick. 

The  Expert  Waitress,  Anne  F.  Springsteed. 

Foods  and  Household  Management,  Kinne  and  Cooley. 

"  Planning  and  Serving  Meals,"  Home  Economics  Bul- 
letin, Iowa  State  College,  Ames,  Iowa. 

For  the  Comfort  of  the  Family,  Josephine  Story. 

A  Text  Book  of  Cooking,  Charlotte  C.  Greer.  (See 
Part  II,  chapter  on  Dining-room  Service.) 

Journal  of  Home  Economics,  American  Home  Eco- 
nomics Association,  Baltimore,  Md.  (Special 
articles.) 

See,  also,  References  listed  at  close  of  Chapter  III. 


IX 


YOUR   RECIPES 


followed. 


[HE  value  of  a  recipe  depends  upon  its 
fundamental  reliability,  its  complete- 
ness, its  adaptability,  and  the  accu- 
racy and  judgment  with  which  it  is 
The  majority  of  foods  may  be  pre- 
pared, and  a  number  of  wholesome,  interesting 
dishes  made  from  a  few  standard  rules  or  recipes, 
variety  being  easily  obtained  by  changing  flavor, 
seasoning,  form,  or  method  of  service,  or  sub- 
stituting one  equivalent  material  or  ingredient 
for  another.  While  a  practical  recipe  properly 
used  should  and  does  go  far  toward  simplifying 
cooking  and  insuring  good  results,  the  fewer  rec- 
ipes we  have  the  better  off  we  really  are;  in 
mere  accumulation  there  is  more  burden  than 
virtue. 

Every  recipe  used  and  kept  should  fill  some 
definite  purpose,  either  serving  as  a  "foundation" 
for  many  dishes  or  meeting  some  special  need. 
From  the  one  recipe  for  wheat  tea  biscuit,  for 


i38       FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

example,  we  should  be  able  to  make  rye  biscuit, 
drop  biscuit,  barley  scones,  cheese  biscuit,  gra- 
ham biscuit,  shortcakes,  quick  coflee-cake,  etc., 
by  simply  supplying  the  necessary  variation  or 
addition,  or  substituting  one  material  for  another. 
In  the  same  way,  from  a  recipe  for  cream  of 
spinach  soup  we  should  be  able  to  make  any 
cream  vegetable  soup — cucumber,  carrot,  let- 
tuce, etc. — the  vegetable  varying,  that  is  all — 
and  perhaps  the  bowl  in  which  we  choose  to 
serve  it. 

The  ideal  recipe,  one  that  is  worth  keeping  and 
using,  should  not  only  be  correct  as  to  the  pro- 
portions and  amounts  of  the  ingredients  used  in 
the  making  of  the  dish,  and  explicit  in  directions 
for  treating  or  combining  these  ingredients,  it 
should  state,  in  addition,  as  far  as  practical: 

Time  required  for  preparation. 

Time  required  for  cooking. 

Most  desirable  cooking  temperature. 

How  to  serve  it. 

Number  served. 

At  what  meal  served. 

With  what  other  foods  it  is  best  served. 

Wholesomeness  or  digestibility. 

Keeping  qualities. 

How  it  may  be  varied  or  adapted. 

Approximate  cost. 

Special  caution,  if  any. 


YOUR    RECIPES  139 

But,  we  must  not  overlook  the  fact,  further, 
that  at  best  any  recipe  is  only  a  guide.  No  matter 
how  reliable  and  complete  a  recipe  may  be  in 
itself,  food  materials  are  ever  variable,  and,  very 
frequently,  conditions  under  which  the  work  is 
done,  therefore  the  ultimate  success  and  final 
value  of  a  dish  depends  not  only  upon  our  ability 
to  follow  specific  directions,  but  to  judge  materials 
and  conditions,  and  make  such  adjustments  as 
may  be  called  for  at  the  moment.  One-third  of 
a  cupful  of  liquid  to  one  cupful  of  flour  may  be 
the  theoretically  correct  proportion  for  making 
ideal  biscuits,  and  we  may  measure  these  propor- 
tions accurately,  but  the  result  may  not  be  as 
anticipated,  or  guaranteed  by  the  recipe,  be- 
cause we  fail  to  note  some  difference  in  the  flour 
which  should  have  called  for  some  corresponding 
change  in  the  amount  of  liquid  used — possibly 
a  little  more  or  a  little  less. 

This  matter  of  judgment  is  particularly  im- 
portant, too,  in  connection  with  oven  tempera- 
tures when  baking.  The  size  of  a  loaf  of  bread  or 
cake,  the  shape  of  the  pan,  even,  at  times,  the 
particular  oven  or  fuel  in  use,  can  materially 
affect  the  temperature  at  which  the  baking  should 
be  done.  The  best  way  to  insure  success  is  to 
study  one's  own  oven — one  with  a  glass  door 
will  simplify  matters  very  much — use  an  indicator, 
and  note  temperatures  and  results  in  connection 


i4o       FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

with  the  baking  of  certain  foods  under  certain 
conditions.1 

Every  housekeeper  should  be  equipped  with 
a  standard  cook-book  2  for  general  cooking  in- 
structions and  such  special  recipes  as  may  be  re- 
quired from  time  to  time.  A  reliable  book  on 
cookery  for  the  sick  is  also  desirable.  In  addition 
to  this,  cooking  for  a  family  can  be  greatly  sim- 
plified if  a  housekeeper  has  a  special,  compact 
set  of  recipes  of  her  very  own,  selected  and  ar- 
ranged to  meet  the  needs  of  her  particular  house- 
hold. These  recipes  should  be  printed  or  written 
on  small  cards,  and  filed,  carefully  indexed — 
ready  for  instant  use — in  a  small  card-catalogue 
box  kept  on  or  near  the  work-table  in  the  kitchen. 
This  cabinet  method  of  keeping  recipes  is  not 
only  a  convenience  for  the  housekeeper,  and  an 
inspiration  for  the  school-girl  just  learning  to 
cook,  but  a  recognized  system  now  adopted  in 
schools  and  colleges  where  cooking  is  taught. 

The  following  assembled  recipes 3  suggest  what 
might  be  included  in  such  a  set.  While  these 
recipes,  like  the  menus  in  Chapter  VI,  have  been 
selected  because  of  their  food  satisfaction,  both 


1  See  "Some  Attempts  to  Standardize  Oven  Tempera- 
tures," Bulletin  22,  May  B.  Van  Arsdale,  Teachers  College, 
New  York,  N.  Y. 

2  See  books  listed  at  close  of  chaps,  vi  and  vii. 

3  These  are  largely  standard  recipes  adapted  to  present 
needs. 


YOUR    RECIPES  141 

in  wholesomeness  and  attractiveness,  as  well  as 
economy  in  the  use  of  food  materials  and  time 
required  for  preparation,  they  are  offered  here 
as  sample  suggestions  only.1  They  may  be  revised 
or  adapted  to  meet  special  needs,  or  they  may 
serve  as  a  model  or  inspiration  for  arranging 
other  "sets."  The  recipes  as  given  have  all  been 
thoroughly  tested,  and  may  be  depended  upon 
for  good  results  if  followed  with  care  and  judg- 
ment. All  measurements  are  level,  and  one  cup- 
ful equals  one-half  pint;  measuring-cups  and 
standard  tea-  and  table-spoons  should  be  used 
for  measuring. 
2q  *  See,  also,  chap,  xii,  p.  238. 


142        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 


WHOLESOME  BREADS 
Made  from  a  Variety  of  Flours 

Where  much  baking  is  done,  a  set  of  "rules,"  or  a 
"table  of  proportions,"  clearly  printed  on  a  card, 
which  can  be  slipped  into  a  little  celluloid  case,  or 
even  framed,  is  most  convenient.  The  Quick  Bread 
table  printed  on  the  following  page  is  particularly- 
practical,  and  illustrates  this  point.  From  this  one 
table  almost  any  variety  of  quick  bread  may  be  made 
— from  tea-biscuits  down  to  popovers,  including 
muffins,  waffles,  griddle-cakes.  Variety  is  obtained 
by  using  different  flours,  changing  the  amount  or 
kind  of  shortening,  and  sometimes  the  pan  in  which 
the  baking  is  done.  With  the  exception  of  the  last 
two,  which  are  of  another  type,  the  recipes  which 
follow  are  based,  largely,  on  these  same  proportions, 
but  suggest  interesting  developments. 


YOUR    RECIPES 


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i44        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Corn  Bread 

Ingredients 

2^  cupfuls  soft  cornmeal  2  cupfuls  thick  sour  milk 

M  level  teaspoonful  salt  1  level  teaspoonful  baking-soda 

2  level  tablespoonfuls  melted  fat 

Time:  Preparation,  8  minutes;  baking,  30  minutes 
Number  served:  6  persons 

MIX  salt  and  meal.  Put  milk  into  a  bowl,  add  soda — 
dissolved  in  spoonful  water;  mix.  Add  this  to  meal, 
add  melted  shortening,  mix  well.  Pour  into  a  greased, 
shallow  pan;  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  (about  3700 
F.)  until  a  rich  golden  brown.  Serve  fresh  for  breakfast  or 
supper,  with  milk  or  cocoa  or  fruit. 

For  variety,  two  beaten  eggs  may  be  added,  and  two 
cupfuls  cornmeal  mixed  with  one-half  cupful  rye  or  wheat 
flour  used  in  place  of  all  meal.  If  milk  is  not  very 
sour,  use  a  little  less  soda,  and  add  two  level  teaspoon- 
fuls  baking-powder  to  the  batter.    Fat  may  be  omitted. 


Quick  Corn  Sally 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  flour  4  level  teaspoonfuls  baking-powder 

1  cupful  cornmeal  2  eggs  (1  will  do) 

|j  level  teaspoonful  salt  1  cupful  milk,  about 

2  level  tablespoonfuls  sugar  2  tablespoonfuls  melted  fat 

Time:  Preparation,  5  minutes;  baking,  25  minutes 
Number  served:  6  persons 

MIX  dry  ingredients.  Beat  eggs,  add  milk;  add  this 
to  the  dry  mixture.  Now  add  the  melted  fat,  and 
pour  batter  into  a  well-greased,  shallow  pan.  Bake  in  a 
quick  oven  (about  4000  F.)  until  a  golden  brown.  Serve 
at  once.  This  is  a  nourishing  bread,  easily  made,  and 
delicious.  Serve  hot  with  butter,  honey,  or  maple  syrup 
for  breakfast,  luncheon,  or  supper.  Either  rye,  white,  or 
whole-wheat  flour  may  be  used. 


YOUR    RECIPES  i4S 

Little  Dandy  Gems 

Ingredients 

2  cupfuls  sifted  flour  H    level    teaspoonful    baking- 

K  level  teaspoonful  salt  soda,  about 

1  level  tablespoonful  sugar  1    cupful    sour    milk    (not    too 

2  level     teaspoonful s     baking-  sour),  about 

powder  2  eggs 

2  level  tablespoonfuls  melted  fat 

Time:  Preparation,  io  minutes;  baking,  25  minutes 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

MIX  flour,  salt,  sugar,  baking-powder.  Beat  eggs.  Add 
soda  to  sour  milk;  mix.  Add  this  to  the  dry  in- 
gredients, add  beaten  eggs,  melted  fat;  beat  for  a  moment, 
using  a  double,  rotary  egg-beater.  The  batter  should  be 
just  thin  enough  to  permit  the  beater  to  go  through  it. 
Pour  into  hot,  greased  gem-pans;  bake  in  a  quick  oven 
(about  4000  F.)  until  a  golden  brown.  Serve  fresh  for 
breakfast  or  supper.    Fat  may  be  omitted  entirely. 

For  Blueberry  Muffins,  add  one  cupful  floured  berries 
to  the  batter,  and  use  a  little  less  liquid. 


Quick  Date  Gems 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  whole-wheat  flour  2  eggs  (or  1  large  one) 

1  cupful  graham  or  rye  flour  1  cupful  milk 

Y2  level  teaspoonful  salt  2  level  tablespoonfuls  melted  fat 

4  level  teaspoonfuls  baking-powder  1  cupful  dates,  stoned,  cut  small 

Time:  Preparation,  15  minutes;  baking,  25  minutes 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

MIX  dry  ingredients.  Beat  eggs  without  separating; 
add  these  to  the  milk;  add  this  to  the  diy  ingredi- 
ents; add  melted  fat,  and  beat  well  for  a  moment.  Now 
add  dates  lightly  floured.  Pour  into  hot,  greased  gem- 
pans,  sprinkle  tops  lightly  with  granulated  sugar,  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven.  Serve  fresh  with  butter.  These  are 
wholesome,  nourishing,  satisfying;  excellent  for  break- 
fast, lunch,  supper. 


146        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Oatmeal -Cheese  Scones 

Ingredients 

\\i  cupfuls  rye  or  whole-wheat     4  level  teaspoonfuls  baking-powder 
flour  2      level     tablespoonfuls      butter 

%  cupful  rolled  oats  substitute 

%  level  teaspoonful  salt  %  cupful  milk,  about 

Grated  cheese 

Time:  Preparation,  12  minutes;  baking,  25  minutes 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

MIX  dry  ingredients.  Rub  in  fat;  add  milk  gradually, 
just  enough  to  thoroughly  moisten  dough.  Turn 
dough  onto  a  floured  board;  knead  lightly  for  a  moment. 
Roll  into  a  sheet  one-fourth  inch  thick;  cut  into  small 
squares;  brush  each  with  a  little  melted  fat,  and  sprinkle 
grated  cheese  on  half  the  number.  Put  together  in  pairs, 
place  on  a  shallow  greased  pan,  cut  each  biscuit  into  two 
parts,  diagonally;  brush  tops  with  milk;  bake  in  a  hot 
oven.  Served  fresh,  these  are  delicious  for  luncheon  or 
supper  with  hot  tea,  chocolate,  or  with  salad  or  fruit. 


Tiny  Tea  Biscuit 

Ingredients 

3  cupfuls  flour  4  level  tablespoonfuls  butter 

%  level  teaspoonful  salt  substitute 

6  level  teaspoonfuls  baking-powder         1  cupful  milk,  about 

Time:  Preparation,  15  minutes;  baking,  15  minutes 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  40  small  biscuits 

TWTIX  and  sift  dry  ingredients.  Rub  in  the  fat.  Add 
»•*■  milk  gradually,  mixing  lightly,  until  dough  is  moist. 
Turn  onto  a  floured  board,  knead  lightly  a  moment.  Divide 
the  dough,  for  convenience.  Roll  each  piece  out,  lightly, 
one-fourth  inch  in  thickness.  Cut  with  a  very  small  cutter. 
Put  together  in  pairs  with  a  little  soft  fat  between.  Bake 
in  a  hot  oven — about  42 50  F.  These  are  attractive  for 
fancy  sandwiches,  and  at  times  a  great  convenience.  Any 
flour  that  is  most  desirable  may  be  used. 


YOUR    RECIPES  147 

Peanut  Scones 

Ingredients 

2  cupfuls  flour  1  level  tablespoonful  butter  sub- 

%  level  teaspoonful  salt,  scant  stitute 

4     level     teaspoonfuls     baking-         4  level     tablespoonfuls     peanut 
powder  butter 

M  cupful  milk,  about 

Time:  Preparation,  8  minutes;  baking,  20  minutes 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

TV/TIX  dry  ingredients.  Rub  in  the  butter  and  the  pea- 
■*■"  nut  butter.  Add  milk  gradually,  mixing  lightly, 
until  dough  is  just  moist  enough  to  drop  from  tip  of  spoon. 
Drop  into  greased  gem-pans,  or  onto  a  shallow,  greased 
biscuit-tin;  bake  in  a  quick  oven — about  4250  F.  De- 
licious, nourishing,  and  very  easily  made.  With  cocoa 
and  a  green  salad,  or  stewed  fruit,  these  make  an  excellent 
supper  or  luncheon. 


Liberty  Fig  Rolls 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  rye  flour  4  level  teaspoonfuls  baking-powder 

1  cupful  graham  flour  2  XA  level  tablespoonfuls  nut  butter 

%  level  teaspoonful  salt  %$  cupful  milk,  about 

Fig  filling  (See,  also,  page  194) 

Time:  Preparation,  15  minutes;  baking,  30  minutes 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

MIX  dry  ingredients;  rub  in  nut  butter.  Add  milk 
gradually,  mixing  lightly,  until  dough  is  moist. 
Turn  onto  a  floured  board,  knead  lightly  a  moment,  roll 
out  one-fourth  inch  thick.  Spread  lightly  with  soft  fat, 
then  generously  with  fig  filling;  roll  like  jelly-roll;  cut 
into  thick  slices;  place  close  together  on  a  shallow,  greased 
pan,  cut  side  up.  Dot  with  bits  of  fat;  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 
To  make  filling:  Mix  one-half  cupful  ground  figs  and 
one-half  cupful  ground  raisins;  add  one-eighth  cupful 
sugar,  an  equal  quantity  of  water;  cook  a  moment  until 
thick  and  smooth. 


148        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Raisin-Nut  Bread 

Ingredients 

\}4  cupfuls  rye  flour  %  cupful  chopped  nutr  (or 
1  }4  cupfuls  whole-wheat  flour  peanut  butter) 

%  level  teaspoonful  salt  %  cupful  raisins 

6     level     teaspoonfuls      baking-  1  egg 

powder  \y2  cupfuls  milk,  about 

Time:  Preparation,  io  minutes;  baking,  40  minutes 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  i  medium  loaf 

TWTIX  dry  ingredients;  add  nuts,  raisins;  mix.  Beat  egg, 
«*  add  milk;  add  this  to  dry  ingredients;  mix  lightly. 
Pour  into  a  greased,  narrow  bread-pan;  let  stand  fifteen 
minutes.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  (about  3700  F.). 
Do  not  cut  until  next  day.  Excellent  for  sandwiches,  or 
for  luncheon  or  supper  with  milk,  cocoa,  or  salad. 

For  variety,  either  nuts  or  raisins  may  be  omitted,  and 
either  white  or  graham  flour  may  be  used.  One  level 
tablespoonful  of  fat  and  one-quarter  cupful  sugar  may  be 
added  if  desired,  but  are  not  necessary. 


Hominy  Popovers 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  cooked  hominy  (left-over)    1  }i  cupfuls  milk 
1  cupful  flour  4  eggs  (3  will  do) 

%  level  teaspoonful  salt 

Time:  Preparation,  io  minutes;  baking,  45  minutes 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  12  popovers 

MIX  flour  with  hominy;  add  salt.  ^  Beat  eggs,  without 
separating,  until  light;  add  this  gradually  to  the 
flour  and  hominy.  Beat  until  very  light,  using  an  egg- 
beater.  Pour  into  hot,  greased  gem-pans  or  earthen  cups; 
bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  (4000  F.,  increasing  to 
4400  F.,  then  decreasing  to  3600  F.)  until  a  rich  golden 
brown  on  all  sides.  Do  not  open  oven  door  too  soon. 
If  well  baked,  these  will  keep  their  shape  even  when  cold; 
they  should  be  hollow.  Serve  hot  with  butter  for  break- 
fast or  supper,  or  as  a  dessert  with  Fruit  Hard  Sauce. 


YOUR    RECIPES  149 

Steamed  Brown  Bread 

0 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  whole-wheat  flour  }4  cupful  warm  water 

1  cupful  yellow  cornmeal  J4  cupful  molasses 

%  level  teaspoonful  salt  1  cupful  thick  sour  milk 

\yi  level  teaspoonfuls  baking-soda  1  cupful  raisins 

Time:  Preparation,  10  minutes;  steaming,  3  hours 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  1  large  loaf 

MIX  dry  ingredients;  add  milk,  water,  molasses;  mix 
well ;  then  add  the  raisins,  well  floured.  Pour  into  a 
buttered  mold,  cover  and  steam.  This  may  be  served  hot 
or  cold.  Raisins  may  be  omitted,  if  desired.  When  cold 
this  bread  makes  excellent  sandwiches  for  the  picnic 
lunch;  particularly  good  with  cream  cheese,  nuts,  and 
lettuce. 


Spoon  Corn  Bread 

Ingredients 

1  pint  milk  K  level  teaspoonful  salt 

%  cupful  yellow  cornmeal,  scant       4  eggs 

Yz  level  tablespoonful  fat 

Time:  Preparation,  20  minutes;  baking,  35  minutes 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

PUT  milk  in  double  boiler,  add  cornmeal;  cook  to  a 
smooth  mush — about  twenty  minutes.  Remove  from 
fire,  add  salt,  fat,  and  when  cool  the  unbeaten  yolks  of 
the  eggs;  mix  well;  fold  in  the  stiffly  beaten  whites.  Pour 
into  a  well-greased,  shallow,  earthen  dish;  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  a  golden  brown.  This  should  puff 
and  double  its  bulk.  Serve  at  once;  dish  with  a  spoon; 
spread  with  butter. 

For  variety,  add  one  cupful  minced  ham  or  smoked  beef 
before  baking;  or,  cover  bottom  of  dish  with  stewed 
prunes,  quartered  apples,  ripe  peaches,  or  berries,  and 
pour  in  the  batter  and  bake;  serve  with  cream  or  milk. 


ISO        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Directions  for  Bread-making 

Ingredients  • 

1  pint  milk  1  yeast  cake  (compressed) 

1  pint  boiling  water  J£  cupful  warm  water 

3  to  4  level  teaspoonfuls  salt  3  to  4  quarts  flour 

Time:  Preparation,  5  hours,  about;  baking,  50  minutes 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  4  medium  loaves 

TDUT  milk  and  salt  into  the  pail  of  the  bread-mixer; 
^-  add  the  boiling  water.  When  the  liquid  is  lukewarm 
(about  850  F.)  add  the  yeast,  dissolved  in  warm  water, 
and  then  add  the  flour — gradually.  Knead  five  to  eight 
minutes;  cover  and  let  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  light 
— about  three  hours.  When  light,  turn  crank  of  bread- 
mixer  a  moment,  then  lift  dough  out  onto  a  floured  board, 
and  remove  the  rod.  Cut  dough  into  four  pieces,  knead 
into  shape,  and  put  into  greased  pans.  Cover  with  a  clean 
cloth,  and  let  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  double  its  bulk. 
Prick  tops,  brush  with  milk,  bake  in  a  moderately  quick 
oven  (4000  F.,  dropping  to  3700  F.)  fifty  minutes.  Cool 
on  a  wire  rack;  do  not  cover  with  a  cloth. 

For  a  simpler  or  cheaper  bread,  all  water  may  be  used; 
for  a  richer  bread,  all  milk. 

For  entire- wheat  bread,  use  entire- wheat  flour;  for  gra- 
ham bread,  use  graham  flour;  for  rye  bread,  rye  flour. 

For  raisin,  date,  or  fig  bread,  add  cleaned  chopped 
fruit  before  shaping  into  loaves.  For  nut  bread,  add  finely 
chopped  nuts.    Two  cupfuls  is  a  good  measure. 

For  plain  rolls,  cut  bread  dough  when  light  into  small 
pieces,  shape,  brush  tops  with  milk,  let  stand  until  light; 
bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

If  shortening  and  sugar  are  desired,  add  one  to  two 
level  tablespoonfuls  of  fat  and  the  same  of  sugar  to  the 
liquid  and  proceed  as  directed.  Keep  top  of  dough  moist 
while  rising  to  prevent  a  crust  from  forming.  If  bread 
is  to  be  set  overnight,  use  less  yeast. 

Exact  amount  of  flour  depends  upon  quality;  three  parts 
flour  to  one  of  liquid  is  usually  correct,  although  more  is 
frequently  needed.  For  detailed  information,  consult 
Farmers'  Bulletin  807,  published  by  the  United  States 
Department  of  Agriculture.  This  bulletin  is  free.  Special 
recipes  for  Victory  Breads  may  be  obtained  from  the 
United  States  Food  Administration. 


YOUR    RECIPES  151 

Corn- Wheat  Bread 

Ingredients 

1  lA  cupfuls  milk  1  level  tablespoonful  butter  sub- 
\XA  cupfuls  water  stitute 

1  cupful  cornmeal  1  yeast  cake 

2  level  teaspoonfuls  salt  4  cupfuls  flour,  about 

Time:  Preparation  and  baking,  5  hours,  about 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  2  small  loaves 

"DUT  milk  and  water  into  a  saucepan  or  double  boiler, 
-^  add  cornmeal,  mix;  cook  carefully  to  a  thick  mush — 
about  twenty  minutes.  Remove  from  fire,  add  salt; 
when  lukewarm,  add  yeast,  dissolved  in  a  little  milk. 
Now  add  enough  white  or  whole-wheat  flour  to  make  a 
soft  dough;  knead  thoroughly  on  a  floured  board,  adding 
more  flour  as  necessary,  but  keeping  dough  rather  soft. 
Stand  in  a  warm  place  until  very  light  and  double  its  bulk. 
Turn  onto  a  floured  board,  shape  into  loaves,  place  in 
greased  bread-pans,  and  let  stand  again  until  light.  Bake 
in  a  hot  oven  forty-five  minutes.    Also  makes  good  rolls. 


Oatmeal-Rye  Bread 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  hot,  cooked  oatmeal  1  level  tablespoonful  fat 

1  cupful  milk,  scalded  %  cupful  brown  sugar 

2  level  teaspoonfuls  salt  1  yeast  cake 

6  cupfuls  rye  flour,  about 

Time:  Preparation  and  baking,  5  hours,  about 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  2  loaves 

ADD  fat,  sugar,  salt,  milk  to  oatmeal.  When  lukewarm, 
-  add  yeast,  dissolved  in  a  little  milk.  Now  add  gradu- 
ally, while  beating  vigorously,  enough  flour  to  make  a 
soft  dough.  Cover;  let  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  very 
light.  Add  remainder  of  flour,  or  enough  to  make  a 
rather  stiff  dough;  mix  thoroughly.  Drop  into  narrow, 
greased  pans.  Let  stand  again  until  loaves  double  their 
bulk.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  forty-five  minutes. 
This  is  moist  and  porous. 


iS2       FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 


WORTH-WHILE   MEAT-SUBSTITUTE 
DISHES 

Easily  Prepared — Wholesome — Delicious 


YOUR   RECIPES 


153 


Spinach  Marmite 

Ingredients 


\XA     cupfuls     cooked     spinach, 

finely  chopped 
2  cupfuls  spinach  water 
1  quart  milk 
Toast 


2    level    tablespoonfuls    butter 

substitute 
4  level  tablespoonfuls  flour 
Salt;  pepper;  onion  salt 
Grated  cheese 


Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  25  minutes 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

O  AVE  water  drained  from  spinach  and  use  for  soup. 
^  Put  fat  into  a  saucepan;  melt;  add  flour;  mix.  Add 
spinach,  spinach  water,  and  milk.  Cook  carefully,  stir- 
ring until  smooth.  Have  ready  round  pieces  of  buttered 
toast  sprinkled  with  grated  cheese.  Pour  soup  into  small 
"marmite"  pots,  or  earthen  bowls;  place  a  piece  of  toast 
on  top  of  each,  stand  in  oven  until  cheese  is  melted.  Serve 
at  once.     For  a  thicker  soup  use  only  three  cupfuls  milk. 


154        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Black  Bean  Bisque 

Ingredients 

1  pint  black  beans  Water;  salt;  pepper 

1  small  onion,  finely  chopped  3  hard-cooked  eggs,  sliced 
3  stalks  celery,  finely  chopped  1  lemon  sliced 

2  level    tablespoonfuls    butter         J^  cupful  minced,  cooked  tongue 

substitute  (if  available) 

2  level  tablespoonfuls  flour 

Time:  Soaking  overnight;  cooking,  4  hours,  about 
Number  served:  6  persons 

SOAK  beans  overnight  in  cold  water.  Drain,  add  about 
two  quarts  fresh,  cold  water.  Cook  until  tender,  add- 
ing more  water  if  required.  When  done,  rub  through  a 
sieve  or  vegetable  press;  add  salt  and  pepper.  Put  onion, 
celery,  and  fat  into  a  small  pan;  cook  fifteen  minutes; 
add  flour;  mix.  Add  this  to  soup,  and  cook  all,  stirring, 
fifteen  minutes.  Add  sliced  eggs,  lemon,  tongue,  and  a 
little  chopped  parsley.  Serve  very  hot.  Pass  rye-bread 
toast,  or  rye  rolls,  or  oven-dried  bread. 


Lentil-Sausage  Soup 

Ingredients 

1  pint  lentils  2  level  tablespoonfuls  flour 

1  onion  Water;  salt;  pepper 

1  small  bay  leaf  4  Frankfurt  sausages,  boiled 

2  level  tablespoonfuls  fat  Chopped  parsley 

Time:  Soaking  overnight;  cooking,  3  hours,  about 
Number  served:  6  persons 

SOAK  lentils  overnight  in  cold  water.  .  Drain,  add  about 
two  quarts  fresh,  cold  water,  the  onion,  and  bay  leaf. 
Cook  slowly  until  lentils  are  tender,  adding  more  water 
if  required.  When  done,  rub  through  a  sieve  or  vegetable 
press;  add  salt  and  pepper.  Put  fat  in  a  saucepan,  melt; 
add  flour;  mix.  Add  this  to  the  strained  soup;  cook  care- 
fully, stirring,  ten  minutes.  Add  sausages,  peeled,  and 
cut  into  thin,  round  slices.  Serve  very  hot.  If  soup  is  too 
thick,  more  water  may  be  added.  Pass  whole- wheat  bread 
or  rye  biscuit. 


YOUR    RECIPES  iSS 

Fish  Chowder 

Ingredients 

4  Bermuda  or  white  onions  1    level   tablespoonful   chopped 

3  potatoes,  medium  size  parsley 

H  pound  salt  codfish  \i     level      teaspoonful      white 

1  quart  milk  pepper 

y%  level  tablespoonful  butter  substitute 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  50  minutes 
Number  served:  4  persons 

SOAK  fish  in  cold  water  overnight,  or  for  several  hours. 
Peel  and  cut  onions  into  very  thin  slices;  put  them 
into  a  large  saucepan,  adding  just  enough  boiling  salted 
water  to  cover,  and  simmer  gently  about  fifteen  minutes. 
Now  add  potatoes  peeled  and  cut  into  small  dice,  and 
enough  more  boiling  water  to  cover  them ;  cook  ten  minutes. 
Add  fish,  flaked,  and  cook  all  for  ten  minutes  longer;  add 
butter  substitute,  milk,  parsley,  pepper,  salt,  if  necessary, 
and  cook  five  minutes  more.  Serve  in  individual  bowls. 
Pass  large  pilot  or  soda  crackers,  lightly  buttered. 


Chicken  Curry  Soup 

Ingredients 

1  quart  chicken  stock  2  level  tablespoonfuls  flour 

1  pint  milk;  2  egg  yolks  M  level  tablespoonful  curry 

1  cupful  finely  chopped  celery  1  chicken  liver,  cooked,  chopped 

2  level   tablespoonfuls   chicken         1  pimento,  chopped 

fat  2  cupfuls  boiled  rice;  salt 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  40  minutes 
Number  served:  4  to  6  persons 

PUT  fat  into  a  saucepan;  when  melted,  add  celery; 
cover;  cook  fifteen  minutes.  Add  flour,  curry;  mix; 
add  milk,  chicken  stock.  Cook,  stirring,  until  smooth  and 
creamy;  season;  add  beaten  egg  yolks;  cook  a  moment 
longer.  Have  ready  hot  rice  mixed  with  pimento  and  liver. 
Place  a  spoonful  or  small  mold  of  rice  in  each  soup-dish, 
fill  with  soup,  dot  with  parsley.  Serve  with  hot  toasted 
rolls  or  pulled  bread. 


156        FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 
Cream  of  Peanut  Soup 

Ingredients 

1  quart  milk  1  tablespoonful  chopped  celery 

1  cupful  water  ^  tablespoonful  chopped  onion 
%  cup  peanut  butter  1  very  small  bay  leaf 

2  level  tablespoonfuls  flour  Salt;  pepper 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  30  minutes 
Number  served:  4  persons 

COOK  celery  and  onion  in  the  water  until  tender — 
about  ten  minutes.  Rub  flour  thoroughly  through 
the  peanut  butter.  Now  put  this,  the  milk,  bay  leaf,  and 
the  cooked  onion  and  celery  into  a  saucepan;  cook  gently, 
stirring,  until  thoroughly  heated,  smooth,  and  creamy. 
When  boiling-point  is  reached  stir  a  moment.  Remove  at 
once  from  fire,  season,  strain,  and  serve  in  individual  bowls. 
Another  good  luncheon  or  dinner  dish;  pass  toasted  gra- 
ham bread,  and  follow  with  salad  or  a  baked  fruit  pudding. 


Cheese  Puree  or  Rarebit  Soup 

Ingredients 

1  %    cupfuls    grated    American  Yolks  of  2  eggs 

cheese  Few  drops  onion  juice 

1  quart  milk  Salt;  paprika;  chopped  parsley 

1  level  tablespoonful  nut  butter  %  cupful  boiled  rice,  or  4  slices 

2  level  tablespoonfuls  flour  toast 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  20  minutes 
Number  served:  4  persons  . 

PUT  butter  into  a  saucepan;  when  melted  add  flour 
and  seasoning;  mix.  Now  add  milk  and  cheese,  and 
heat  all  slowly,  stirring  carefully,  until  whole  becomes 
creamy  and  smooth.  Add  rice  and  egg  yolks,  slightly 
beaten;  stir  a  moment,  then  pour  immediately  into  in- 
dividual serving-bowls.  If  preferred,  omit  rice,  and  pour 
into  soup-plates,  with  a  slice  of  crisp  buttered  toast  in 
each  dish;  sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley.  Very  easily 
and  quickly  made ;  nourishing  and  good.    Serve  with  salad. 


YOUR    RECIPES  157 

Lentil  Rice,  Tongue  Garnish 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  lentils  1  can  potted  tongue,  small 

%  cupful  rice  Y2  cupful  bread-crumbs,  soft 

1  onion,  chopped  '  1  egg,  beaten 

1  level  tablespoonful  fat  2  bouillon  cubes 

x/2  teaspoonful  kitchen  bouquet  2  level  tablespoonfuls  fat 

Salt;  pepper  2  level  tablespoonfuls  flour 
1  cupful  water 

Time  :  Preparation,  soaking  overnight ;  cooking,  2  hours 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

\X7ASH  the  lentils;  soak  overnight  in  cold  water.  Drain, 
w  V  cook  in  boiling  water  unil  tender;  drain.  Boil  and 
drain  the  rice,  add  to  the  lentils;  season  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  the  onion,  which  has  been  cooked  un'til  soft  in  the 
fat,  without  browning.  Heat  for  a  moment.  Mold  in  a 
bowl,  and  keep  hot  until  ready  to  serve.  Add  crumbs  and 
egg  to  the  tongue.  Form  into  small  balls  and  poach,  in 
gently  boiling  water,  for  ten  minutes.  While  these  are 
cooking,  dissolve  the  cubes  in  one-quarter  cupful  hot  water, 
then  add  three-quarters  cupful  cold  water.  Melt  two 
tablespoonfuls  fat,  add  the  flour,  mix;  add  the  bouillon 
and  cook  until  thick  and  smooth ;  add  the  bouquet.  Turn 
out  the  lentils  and  rice  on  a  deep  platter.  Pour  the  sauce 
around  the  mold,  garnish  with  the  balls.  Serve  very  hot. 
Chipped  beef,  ham,  or  Frankfurt  sausages,  boiled  or  split 
and  broiled,  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  tongue  balls. 

A  good  dinner  dish.  Serve  finely  shredded  cabbage 
salad  with  orange  dressing,  cheese  wafers,  and  caramel 
custards  or  a  fruit  jelly. 

11 


158        FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

Stewed  Soy  Beans 

Ingredients 

2  cupfuls  dried  soy  beans  J^  cupful  minced  ham 

1  can  tomatoes  1  level  teaspoonful  fat 

1  small  onion,  chopped  1  level  tablespoonful  flour 

1  green  pepper,  chopped  Water;  salt. 

Time:  Soaking,  24  hours;  cooking,  2  hours,  about 
Number  served:  6  persons 

SOAK  soy  beans  in  cold  water  twenty-four  hours.  Cook 
slowly,  in  enough  water  to  cover  them,  until  tender; 
add  salt,  and  drain.  Add  onion  and  pepper  to  tomatoes, 
and  cook  twenty  minutes;  add  ham;  melt  butter,  add 
flour,  and  add  this  to  the  tomatoes.  Now  add  this  to  the 
beans;  heat  all  together  for  a  few  minutes,  and  serve  in 
a  large  dish  with  a  garnish  of  boiled  rice.  These  beans 
rank  high  in  food  value,  can  well  take  the  place  of  meat, 
and  are  inexpensive;  they  have  a  rich,  delicious  flavor. 
Other  beans  may  be  prepared  and  served  in  the  same  way. 


Cheese  Souffle 

Ingredients 

4  eggs  1}4  cupfuls  milk 

1}4    cupfuls    American    cheese,  34  cupful  bread-crumbs 

cut  fine  \i  level  teaspoonful  salt 

6  level  tablespoonfuls  flour  H  level  teaspoonful  paprika 

3  level  tablespoonfuls  butter  substitute 

Time:  Preparation,  20  minutes;  baking,  25  minutes 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

MELT  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  mix;  add  the  milk 
and  cook,  stirring  constantly,  until  thick  and  smooth ; 
add  cheese  and  continue  cooking  until  it  is  melted;  add 
seasoning.  Cool,  add  yolks  of  eggs,  unbeaten,  mix  thor- 
oughly; fold  in  carefully  the  stiffly  beaten  whites.  Pour 
into  a  buttered  earthen  baking-  or  souffle-dish,  sprinkle 
the  top  with  crumbs,  add  a  few  bits  of  butter,  and  bake 
in  a  moderately  hot  oven.  Send  at  once  to  the  table. 
Serve  with  a  crisp  lettuce  and  tomato  salad. 


YOUR    RECIPES  159 

A  Spaghetti  Rarebit 

Ingredients 

}4  pound  soft  American  cheese  1  level  tablespoonful  butter 

14  package  spaghetti,  cooked  1     teaspoonful     Worcestershire 
^i  cupful  milk  or  cream  sauce 

1  egg  Salt,  pepper 

Time:  In  chafing-dish,  15  minutes,  about 
Number  served:  3  persons 

CUT  cheese  into  small  pieces.  Put  butter  and  cheese 
into  chafing-dish;  heat  slowly.  When  cheese  is  melt- 
ing, add  egg  and  milk,  beaten  together;  stir  and  cook 
until  creamy,  add  spaghetti,  heat  thoroughly,  add  season- 
ing and  serve  at  once. 

Inexpensive,  nourishing,  easily  prepared.      Serve  with 
a  green  salad,  rye  bread  or  toast,  and  a  fruit  dessert. 


Samp,  Bremestead 

Ingredients 

1  \i  cupfuls  large  hominy  or  samp       2  level  tablespoonfuls  fat 
H  pound  cheese,  cut  small  2  level  tablespoonfuls  flour 

1  cupful  milk  Salt;  paprika 

Time:  Soaking,  12  hours;  cooking,  5  hours,  about 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

WASH  samp;  soak  overnight  in  cold  water.  Next 
morning,  cook  slowly,  adding  more  water  as  nec- 
essary, until  tender — or  cook  in  fireless  cooker.  When 
done,  add  salt,  and  drain  off  carefully  any  excess  water. 
Melt  fat,  add  flour,  mix;  add  milk,  cook,  stirring  until 
smooth  and  creamy;  add  cheese,  season  with  salt  and 
paprika,  and  continue  cooking  until  cheese  is  melted,  and 
the  sauce  thick  and  smooth.  Serve  samp  in  a  large,  round 
dish,  pour  sauce  over  it,  and  send  at  once  to  the  table. 
For  variety,  samp  may  be  put  into  a  baking-dish,  the 
sauce  poured  over  it,  and  browned  in  the  oven.  This  is 
a  nourishing  dish,  and  a  meal  in  itself;  serve  with  graham 
gems  and  a  fruit  dessert. 


i6o       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Rice  and  Cheese 

Ingredients 

2H  cupfuls  cooked  rice  2  level  tablespoonfuls  fat 

1    cupful    finely    cut    American         2  level  tablespoonfuls  flour 

cheese  }4  level  teaspoonful  salt 

1  cupful  milk  Few  grains  paprika 

\i  cupful  bread-crumbs 

Time:  Preparation,  15  minutes;  baking,  15  minutes 
Number  served:  4-5  persons 

USE  left-over  cold  boiled  rice.  Melt  fat,  add  flour; 
mix;  add  milk,  cook,  stirring  until  smooth  and  thick. 
Add  cheese,  salt,  and  paprika;  stir  until  cheese  melts; 
add  rice.  Grease  a  shallow,  earthen  baking-dish,  fill  with 
mixture,  cover  with  crumbs,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
until  top  is  golden  brown.  Left-over  cooked  breakfast 
hominy,  or  boiled  samp,  may  be  substituted  for  the  rice. 
This  is  a  delicious  and  nutritious  dish  with  meat  value. 
Serve  with  coarse  bread  and  a  salad,  or  fruit. 


Spinach  Beauregard 

Ingredients 

2  quarts  spinach  3  level  tablespoonfuls  fat 

Butter,     pepper,     and    salt    to         3  level  tablespoonfuls  flour 

season  Salt;  pepper 

Sliced  ham  or  broiled  bacon  3  eggs,  hard-cooked 

\y%  cupfuls  milk 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  50  minutes 
Number  served:  4  persons 

CLEAN  spinach  thoroughly,  cook  until  tender  in  a  very 
little  water;  drain,  chop  fine  and  season.  Melt  three 
level  tablespoonfuls  fat,  add  flour;  mix.  Add  milk,  and 
cook  slowly,  stirring  until  sauce  is  smooth  and  creamy; 
season.  Add  whites  of  eggs,  chopped.  Dish  spinach, 
mounding  it  in  center  of  a  platter;  pour  sauce  around; 
cover  spinach  with  yolks  of  eggs  pressed  through  a  sieve. 
Garnish  with  broiled  bacon  or  ham. 


YOUR    RECIPES  161 

Creamed  Scallops  and  Shrimps 

Ingredients 

1  pint  fresh  scallops  4  level  tablespoonfuls  flour 

x/2  pound  cooked  shrimps  1  hard-cooked  egg 

1  cupful  milk  Salt;    pepper;    onion    salt,    few 

3  level  tablespoonfuls  cooking-fat  grains 

H  level  tablespoonful  chopped  parsley 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  20  minutes 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

"DUT  fat  into  a  saucepan,  or  use  a  chafing-dish.  When 
-*■  melted,  add  flour;  mix;  add  milk,  cook  slowly,  stirring, 
until  smooth,  creamy,  and  quite  thick.  Now  add  scallops, 
seasoning,  and  let  cook  about  ten  minutes.  As  the  scallops 
begin  to  cook  the  sauce  will  become  much  thinner.  Now 
add  shrimps,  chopped  white  of  egg,  and  yolk  of  egg  rubbed 
to  a  paste  with  a  little  of  the  sauce.  Cook  five  minutes 
longer;  add  parsley,  serve  piping  hot.     Pass  toast. 


Calcutta  Rice 

Ingredients 

%  cupful  rice  For  Curry  Sauce: 

1  level  tablespoonful  nut  butter  1  small  onion  chopped  fine 

1  green  pepper,  cut  small  (or  1  2  level  tablespoonfuls  fat 

pimento)  2  level  tablespoonfuls  flour 

1    cupful    crab-flckes    (fresh   or  1  level  teaspoonful  curry  powder 

canned)  1  cupful  milk;  salt 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  30  minutes 
Number  served:  4  persons 

COOK  rice  in  rapidly  boiling,  salted  water  until  tender; 
drain.  Melt  butter,  add  pepper;  cook  ten  minutes. 
Mix  thiS  through  the  cooked  rice.  Prepare  curry  sauce, 
add  crab-flakes,  heat.  Heap  rice  on  a  dish ;  make  a  hollow 
in  center;  fill  with  curried  crab-flakes;  garnish  with  parsley. 
Left-over  chicken  may  be  substituted  for  crab-flakes. 

To  make  sauce:  Melt  fat,  add  onion,  curry;  cook  until 
onion  is  tender;  add  flour;  mix;  add  milk,  and  cook,  stir- 
ring, until  thick  and  smooth;  add  salt. 


162       FOOD   AND   FREEDOM 


Eggs  Florentine 

A  RRANGE  thin  slices  of  dry  toast  on  a  hot  platter. 
**  Cover  each  slice  with  a  generous  spoonful  of  nicely- 
seasoned,  hot,  carefully  cooked  spinach.  Top  each  portion 
with  a  fresh  egg,  perfectly  poached,  and  pour  a  hot  cheese 
sauce  over  the  whole. 

To  make  sauce:  Put  two  level  tablespoonfuls  vegetable 
fat  into  a  saucepan,  add  two  level  tablespoonfuls  flour; 
mix;  add  one  cupful  milk;  cook,  stirring,  until  smooth 
and  beginning  to  thicken.  Now  add  one-half  cupful 
American  cheese,  cut  small;  continue  cooking,  and  stir- 
ring, until  cheese  is  melted  and  sauce  is  thick  and  smooth. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper. 


Fish  Omelet 


MAKE  a  cheese  sauce  as  directed  in  Eggs  Florentine. 
Add  to  this  one  cupful  cooked,  fresh  fish-flakes. 
Heat  carefully.  Make  a  small  French  omelet;  when  set, 
place  a  spoonful  of  the  prepared  fish  in  center,  fold,  turn 
onto  a  hot  platter;  pour  remainder  of  fish  around  omelet; 
garnish  with  parsley.  Serve  at  once.  Nourishing,  good, 
and  very  quickly  made. 

To  make  omelet:  Break  three  fresh  eggs  into  a  bowl, 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  water;  beat  lightly  with  a  fork — 
just  enough  to  mix  whites  and  yolks.  Put  a  level  table- 
spoonful  fat  into  a  small  omelet-pan;  when  hot — but  not 
brown — turn  in  the  eggs;  cook  carefully,  shaking  pan  oc- 
casionally, until  omelet  is  set;  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper;  fold.  « 


YOUR    RECIPES  163 

Salmon  Loaf 

Ingredients 

2  cupfuls  salmon  (1  large  can)  1  cupful  bread-crumbs,  not  too 

2  eggs,  beaten  dry 

1  cupful  milk  1  lemon 

Salt;  pepper  6  pimento  olives 

Tartare  sauce 

Time:  Preparation,  20  minutes;  cooking,  35  minutes 
Number  served:  6-8  persons 

"DEMOVE  skin  and  particles  of  bone  from  salmon; 
-*^-  separate  into  flakes;  add  eggs,  milk,  crumbs;  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  into  a  buttered  mold  or  bread- 
pan,  and  steam,  on  top  of  stove  or  in  oven,  until  set. 
Turn  onto  a  hot  platter,  garnish  with  thin  slices  of  lemon, 
placing  half  an  olive  in  the  center  of  each  slice;  place 
a  spoonful  of  sauce  tartare  at  either  end. 


Fish  Puffs 

BAKE  large  potatoes  until  soft.  When  done,  cut  a 
slice  from  top  of  each,  lengthwise;  scoop  out  the 
potato.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  butter,  and  a  little  hot 
milk.  Add  an  equal  quantity  of  fish-flakes,  and  one  beaten 
egg  for  each  three  potatoes.  Refill  shells;  place  a  slice 
of  bacon  on  top  of  each;  brown  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  with 
salad,  for  luncheon  or  dinner. 


Chicken  and  Rice  Pies 

GREASE  individual  dishes,  cover  the  bottom  of  each 
with  a  layer  of  boiled  rice,  add  a  layer  of  cooked, 
diced  chicken,  then  a  layer  of  well-made,  nicely  seasoned 
cream  sauce.  Now  add  another  layer  of  rice,  chicken, 
and  sauce,  continuing  until  dishes  are  full.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  hot  and  tops  are  brown.  If  possible, 
use  chicken  stock  for  the  sauce. 


i64       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 


SOME  GOOD  VEGETABLES  AND   SALADS 

The  preparation  of  green  vegetables  counts  for  quite  as 
much  as  the  cooking.  Vegetables  to  be  good  must  be 
properly  ripened,  and  as  fresh  from  the  garden  as  possible. 
Wilted  vegetables,  if  not  stale,  may  be  restored  by  putting 
them  in  cold  water  for  an  hour  or  two.  All  sand  and 
decayed  matter  should  be  carefully  removed  before  cook- 
ing. A  brush  for  scrubbing  saves  labor;  a  small  sharp 
knife  is  essential;  special  cutters  are  attractive  but  not 
necessary. 

Carrots  and  turnips  should  be  diced,  or  cut  into  long,  thin 
"strings."  Beets  are  washed,  without  breaking  the  skin, 
and  four  or  five  inches  of  the  green  stem  should  be  left 
on;  they  may  be  cut  as  desired  after  cooking;  when 
tender,  the  green  tops  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  way  as 
,  spinach.  Cabbage  should  be  shredded,  then  simmered 
gently  for  twenty  minutes,  without  a  cover.  The  success 
of  spinach  depends  upon  careful  washing,  and  fine  chop- 
ping after  cooking;  beans,  on  the  proper  stringing  and 
cutting.  Peas  and  corn  are  only  good  when  fresh;  peas 
are  sweeter  if  two  or  three  pods  are  boiled  in  the  water 
with  them;  corn  may  have  the  final  inner  husk  left  on; 
both  vegetables  should  be  timed  carefully,  as  over-cooking 
is  disastrous. 

When  cooking  all  vegetables,  preserve  color,  flavor,  and 
valuable  nutritive  elements  as  far  as  possible.  When 
practical,  baking  is  desirable.  The  very  watery  vegetables 
— squash,  spinach,  beet  tops — should  be  cooked  over 
steam,  or  with  very  little  water.  For  vegetables  that 
must  be  boiled,  do  not  use  more  water  than  is  necessary, 
and  save  this  water  for  soups  and  sauces;  it  is  valuable. 
Use  fresh  boiling  water  only,  and  continue  the  boiling 
very  gently  until  the  vegetable  is  tender — no  longer.  A 
cover  is  not  necessary.  As  a  rule,  top-ground  vegetables 
should  be  cooked  in  salted  water;  underground  vegetables 
should  be  salted  after  cooking. 

Salad  greens  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  and  crisped 
in  iced  water  before  using. 


YOUR    RECIPES  165 

Trench  Succotash 

9  ears  green  corn  \i  cupful  milk,  about 

2  quarts  new  lima  beans  Salt,  pepper,  butter  for  season- 

l/i  pound  dried,  chipped  beef,  ing 

about 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  1  hour,  about 
Number  served:   6  persons 

SHELL  the  beans.  Select  well-ripened  sweet  corn; 
score  kernels;  with  back  of  knife-blade  press  out  pulp 
and  juice;  place  this  in  refrigerator  until  ready  to  use. 
Cook  corn-cobs  in  boiling,  salted  water — just  enough  to 
cover — for  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  cobs,  and  use  this 
water  for  cooking  beans.  When  beans  are  tender,  drain 
off  some  of  the  water,  retaining  about  one  cupful.  Add 
corn  to  beans,  season;  add  beef  which  has  been  freshened 
by  scalding  with  boiling  water.  Heat  all  slowly  together. 
An  excellent  dinner  dish,  and  a  complete  meal  in  itself. 
Serve  with  rye  muffins  or  brown  bread. 


Boiled  New  Squash 

SELECT  very  small  new  squash — either  white  or  the 
yellow  crook-necks — before  the  skin  or  shell  has 
hardened.  Trim  off  the  stem  ends,  and  cook  the  squash 
whole  in  boiling  salted  water  until  tender,  about  thirty 
minutes.  When  done,  drain  carefully.  Serve  on  individual 
plates,  splitting  each  squash  partly  open.  Cover  with 
cream  sauce,  add  chopped  parsley. 

Mushrooms  in  Cream 

SELECT  firm,  solid  field  mushrooms.  Wash  carefully, 
under  running  water,  gill  side  down.  Break  off  the 
stems,  cutting  off  and  discarding  the  hard  ground  end 
portion.  Slice  the  stems.  The  mushrooms  themselves 
may  be  kept  whole  or  sliced.  To  a  half-pound  of  mush- 
rooms allow  one  and  one-half  level  tablespoonfuls  butter 
substitute.  Put  this  into  a  saucepan;  when  melted,  add 
mushrooms,  sprinkle  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  cover 
closely,  and  simmer  about  twenty  minutes;  add  one-third 
cupful  thin  cream;  cook  two  minutes.  Serve  at  once  on 
thin  toast,  or  around  an  omelet,  or  with  spinach. 


1 66        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 
Stewed  Cucumbers 

SELECT  small  ripe  cucumbers;  pare  and  cut  into  halves 
lengthwise.  Boil  carefully  in  salted  water  until  tender, 
about  twenty  minutes.  Drain;  serve  on  strips  of  toast, 
with  the  following  sauce:  Put  two  level  tablespoonfuls 
of  fat  in  a  saucepan;  when  melted,  add  two  level  table- 
spoonfuls  flour;  mix,  add  one  cupful  water  in  which 
cucumbers  were  cooked;  stir  until  thick  and  smooth,  add 
salt,  pepper,  and  juice  of  half  a  lemon.    These  are  delicious. 


Stuffed  Green  Peppers 

REMOVE  seeds  from  sweet  green  peppers;  parboil  pep- 
pers in  boiling,  salted  water  ten  minutes.  Score  and 
cut  old  green  corn  from  the  cob;  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
a  spoonful  or  two  of  milk,  and  a  little  chicken  fat  or  bacon 
drippings.  Cook  carefully  about  five  minutes.  Fill  pep- 
pers with  prepared  corn,  cover  tops  with  bread-crumbs, 
dot  with  a  bit  of  fat,  bake  until  tender.  Serve  hot  with 
tomato  sauce. 


Tomato  Cocktail 

SELECT  firm,  ripe  tomatoes.  Put  them  into  a  wire 
basket  and  plunge  into  boiling  water  for  a  moment; 
remove  the  skins.  Put  aside  in  the  refrigerator  until  very 
cold.  At  serving-time,  cut  into  cubes,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  add  enough  mayonnaise  dressing  to 
cover  the  tomatoes.  Serve  very  cold  in  tall  glasses  or 
small  glass  cups.  Sprinkle  chopped  parsley  over  top  of 
each. 


Grilled  Egg-plant 

PARE  an  egg-plant;  cut  into  slices  one- third  of  an  inch 
thick.  Dust  with  salt  and  pepper;  brush  with  melted 
fat  or  olive  oil.  Broil  over  a  hot  fire  until  brown ;  turn  slices, 
baste  again  with  butter,  and  brown.  Halved  tomatoes 
and  raw  potatoes,  sliced,  may  be  quickly  grilled  in  the 
same  way. 


YOUR    RECIPES  167 

Asparagus,  with  Mayonnaise 

Ingredients 

1  bunch  asparagus  ^  cupful  mayonnaise 

Sliced  cold  ham  or  tongue  1  tablespoonful  whipped  cream 

4  eggs,  hard  cooked  1  teaspoonful  chopped  parsley 

Time:  Preparation,  about  35  minutes 

BOIL  the  asparagus  carefully  in  salted  water;  drain 
and  cool.  At  serving  time  arrange  it  in  the  center  of  a 
platter  with  thin  slices  of  ham  or  tongue  around  it.  Cut 
the  eggs  into  halves,  placing  a  half  on  each  slice  of  meat. 
Add  the  cream  to  the  mayonnaise,  which  should  be 
quite  stiff,  and  pour  this  over  the  green  ends  of  the  aspara- 
gus; sprinkle  the  parsley  over  the  top.  The  whole  should 
be  served  very  cold. 

This  makes  an  excellent  luncheon  or  supper  dish  for 
warm  days.     Serve  with  tea-biscuit  sandwiches. 


Debutante  Salad 

Ingredients 

1  head  lettuce  1  cupful  diced  cooked  tongue 

1  bunch  cress  1  cupful  diced  cooked  chicken 

1  cupful  chopped  celery  12  large  pitted  olives  cut  in  rings 

French  dressing  Cream  mayonnaise 

Time:  Preparation,  40  minutes 
Number  served:  8  persons 

MIX  celery,  tongue,  chicken  and  olives.  Season  with 
French  dressing;  let  stand  in  refrigerator  until  very 
cold.  Just  before  serving  add  enough  cream  mayonnaise 
to  well  cover  every  particle  of  salad.  Arrange  on  a  bed 
of  crisp  cress  and  lettuce.  A  very  dainty  luncheon  or 
reception  salad. 


1 68        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Rice  Salad 

Ingredients 

2  cupfuls  boiled  rice  Salt;  pepper 

Yl  cupful  diced  cooked  carrots         Few  drops  onion  juice 

or  beets  French  dressing;   mayonnaise 

1  green  pepper,  finely  chopped  Chopped  parsley 

Cocoanut-cheese  balls 

Time:  Preparation,  35  minutes 
Number  served:  4  persons 

USE  rice  which  has  been  cooked  in  rapidly  boiling  water 
until  tender — about  twenty  minutes;  drain  very  care- 
fully. When  cool,  add  vegetables,  seasoning,  and  enough 
French  dressing  to  moisten  the  mixture.  Heap  in  the 
center  of  an  attractive  dish;  cover  top  with  mayonnaise, 
add  a  sprinkling  of  parsley;  garnish  with  a  circle  of  the 
cheese  balls,  and  a  few  leaves  of  crisp  lettuce  or  cress. 
Serve  cool,  but  not  chilled.  A  good  luncheon  or  dinner 
dish;  complete  with  brown  bread  and  butter,  biscuits,  or 
muffins,  and  hot  tea  or  cocoa. 


A  Food-Fruit  Salad 

Ingredients 

1  small,  ripe  pineapple,  shredded  Mayonnaise  or  pineapple  dress- 

1  cupful  diced  sweet  apple  ing 

1  ripe  banana,  sliced  Shredded  cocoanut  or  chopped 

1  orange  nuts 

Yi  cupful  raisins  Lettuce 

Time:  Preparation,  25  minutes 
Number  served:  6  persons 

PREPARE  the  pineapple;  add  raisins,  and  the  orange, 
carefully  peeled,  the  fine  skin  removed,  and  left  in 
sections.  Let  this  stand  in  a  cold  place  until  chilled. 
Now  add  apples,  freshly  cut,  and  the  banana.  Cover  with 
dressing;  serve  on  individual  plates  on  a  bed  of  crisp  let- 
tuce or  other  salad  greens;  sprinkle  with  shredded  cocoa- 
nut.  A  good  dish  for  luncheon  or  supper,  or  an  excellent 
combination  salad  and  dessert  for  dinner.  Serve  with 
thin  bread-and-butter  sandwiches  or  small  rolls. 


YOUR    RECIPES  169 

Calico  Salad 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  fresh  boiled  potatoes,     1    cupful     new    turnips,    cooked, 

cut  small  diced 

1  cupful    new    carrots,    cooked,     1  cupful    peas    or    beans,  cooked 
diced  1  head  lettuce,  or  other  salad  green 

French  dressing;  mayonnaise;  onion  juice 

Time:  Preparation,  45  minutes 
Number  served:  6  persons 

"DOIL  potatoes,  drain,  and  while  still  warm  cut  into  dice; 
**— '  cut  carrots  and  turnips.  Add  these  to  the  potatoes; 
add  peas  or  beans,  mix  carefully,  and  cover  with  a  well- 
made  French  dressing;  add  a  few  drops  onion  juice.  Let 
stand  in  a  cold  place  several  hours.  At  serving  time,  ar- 
range crisp  lettuce  on  a  dish,  heap  vegetables  in  center, 
garnish  with  small  gherkins,  or.  olives,  or  bits  of  beet  or 
tomato;  top  with  a  spoonful  of  mayonnaise.  An  excel- 
lent luncheon  dish.  Serve  with  bread  and  butter  sand- 
wiches, or  fresh  biscuit,  and  tea  or  hot  cocoa.  Also  a 
good  salad  to  complete  a  cold  meat  dish  for  dinner. 


Stuffed  Tomato  Relish 

Ingredients 

1  head  lettuce  or  cress  1  small  jar  pickled  mussels 
6  ripe  tomatoes                                         Salt;  pepper;  onion  juice 

2  cupfuls  flaked  crab  meat  Mayonnaise  dressing 

Time:  Preparation,  25  minutes 
Ni/mber  served:  6  persons 

SCALD  tomatoes,  remove  skins.  Scoop  out  a  portion 
of  the  centers.  Stand  tomatoes  in  refrigerator  until 
cold.  At  serving  time,  season  tomatoes  and  stuff  with  the 
crab-flakes  through  which  mayonnaise  has  been  carefully 
mixed.  Place  tomatoes  on  a  bed  of  crisp  lettuce,  garnish 
tops  with  mayonnaise,  two  whole  mussels,  and  a  little 
chopped  parsley.  Serve  very  cold.  A  refreshing  supper 
or  light  dinner  dish;  also  a  good  first  course  for  the  company 
dinner. 


i7o       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

A  Summer  Salad 

Ingredients 

1  head  lettuce  M  cupful  cottage  cheese 

2  large  ripe  tomatoes  Chopped  olives  or  gherkins 

French  dressing 

Time:  Preparation,  15  minutes 
Number  served:  4  persons 

SCALD  tomatoes;  remove  skins.  'Cut  each  tomato  into 
halves,  crosswise;  stand  in  a  refrigerator  until  very- 
cold.  At  serving  time,  place  a  slice  of  tomato  on  a  bed 
of  crisp  lettuce,  using  individual  plates.  Cover  each 
tomato  with  a  spoonful  of  cheese,  sprinkle  generously  with 
finely  chopped  olives,  and  pour  over  this  some  French 
dressing.  A  few  chopped  nuts  may  be  added  if  desired. 
Serve  with  whole-wheat  or  graham  bread.  An  excellent 
hot  weather  luncheon  or  supper  dish.  When  available, 
cream  cheese  may  be  substituted  for  cottage  cheese. 


An  Autumn  Salad 

Ingredients 

6  large  red  apples  3^  cupful  chopped  walnuts 

Finely  shredded  cabbage  Mayonnaise  or  boiled  dressing 

Time:  Preparation,  30  minutes 
Number  served:  6  persons 

WASH  the  apples;  dry  and  polish  with  a  clean  cloth. 
Cut  a  slice  from  the  top  of  each.  Remove  core 
and  seeds;  scoop  out  the  apple  without  breaking  the  skin. 
Chop  the  apple  very  fine.  Mix  with  it  an  equal  quantity 
of  shredded  cabbage,  the  nuts,  and  enough  mayonnaise 
or  cooked  dressing  to  well  cover  every  particle  of  fruit 
and  cabbage.  Mix  thoroughly;  refill  the  apple  cups; 
serve  on  individual  plates  on  a  bed  of  chicory  or  lettuce 
leaves.  Garnish  the  top  of  each  apple  with  a  spoonful  of 
dressing  and  half  a  nut  meat.  Serve  very  cold.  An  ex- 
cellent supper  salad  to  serve  with  cold  meat.  Pecan  or 
hickory  nuts  may  be  substituted  for  the  walnuts. 


YOUR    RECIPES  171 

Orchard  Salad 

"DARE  two  ripe  peaches,  two  ripe  pears,  and  two  sweet 
x  apples.  Cut  fruit  into  thin  slices  or  small  cubes. 
Arrange  on  a  bed  of  crisp  lettuce  and  cover  with  cream 
mayonnaise.    Serve  very  cold. 


Orange-Date  Salad 

TDEEL  three  large  oranges;  separate  in  sections,  remov- 
*  ing  fine  skin.  Arrange  on  a  bed  of  crisp  lettuce,  lap- 
ping one  section  over  the  other  so  as  to  form  a  circle; 
fill  center  with  chopped  dates  and  nuts.  Garnish  with 
cream  cheese;  serve  with  French  dressing.  Oranges  may 
be  cut  in  thin  round  slices  if  preferred. 

Bermuda  Salad 

CUT  new  Bermuda  onions  into  very  thin,  round  slices. 
Cover  generously  with  French  dressing;  sprinkle  with 
finely  chopped  parsley.  Sliced  radishes,  or  a  chopped 
tomato,  or  a  little  cucumber  may  be  added  if  desired. 

Economy  Salad 

TV/TIX  equal  quantities  finely  cut  celery  and  apple;  add 
«*■*-*•  a  few  chopped  nuts  and  a  small  quantity  cottage 
cheese.  Mix  carefully  through  this  a  well-made  French 
dressing.    Serve  cold  on  a  bed  of  crisp  lettuce  or  cress. 

Nut-Cheese  Balls 

MIX  equal  parts  of  peanut  butter  and  fresh  cream 
cheese,  or  home-made  cottage .  cheese.  Add  a  few 
grains  of  salt,  and  moisten  with  a  little  thin  cream,  if 
necessary.  Form  into  small  balls.  Serve  with  salad  an^ 
wafers.  Shredded  cocoanut,  or  other  chopped  nuts,  may 
be  substituted  for  peanut  butter. 

Ideal  Salad  Dressing 

MIX  together  six  tablespoonfuls  olive  oil,  juice  and 
pulp  of  one  orange,  one-fourth  level  teaspoonful 
salt.  A  good  dressing  for  plain  lettuce,  shredded  cabbage, 
or  fruit.    Wholesome  for  children. 


172       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 
Roquefort  Dressing 

TWTASH  a  small  quantity  of  Roquefort  cheese  and  stir 
•**"  through  a  well  made  French  dressing.  Serve  on 
lettuce  hearts.    Other  cheese  may  be  substituted. 


Russian  Dressing 


'"PO  one  cupful  mayonnaise  add  one  tablespoonful,  or 
■*•   more,  of  tomato  catsup  or  chilli  sauce  and  several 
olives  finely  chopped.    Serve  with  lettuce  hearts. 


Five-minute  Mayonnaise 

T3UT  two  egg  yolks  into  a  small,  cold  bowl.  Add  one- 
*  eighth  level  teaspoonful  salt,  few  grains  of  pepper, 
and  one-half  tablespoonful  lemon  juice;  mix.  Now  add 
one  tablespoonful  olive  oil,  and  beat — using  a  small, 
double,  rotary  egg-beater.  Continue  adding  oil,  a  table- 
spoonful at  a  time,  alternating  with  a  drop  or  two  of  lemon 
juice  until  the  desired  quantity  of  dressing  is  made.  From 
one-half  to  a  cupful  can  be  made  in  about  five  minutes. 


Cream  Mayonnaise 

TO  a  quantity  of  stiff  mayonnaise  add  an  equal  quan- 
tity— or  less — of  whipped  cream.  This  dressing 
should  be  used  the  day  it  is  made,  and  kept  in  the  refrigera- 
tor until  it  is  ready  to  be  served. 


Pineapple  Dressing 

MIX  six  tablespoonfuls  pineapple  juice,  three  level 
tablespoonfuls  granulated  sugar,  two  eggs,  beaten, 
one  level  tablespoonful  cornstarch,  and  one  level  table- 
spoonful nut  butter.  Cook  over  boiling  water,  stirring  con- 
stantly, until  smooth  and  thick.  Remove  from  fire,  cool, 
add  three-fourths  cupful  of  cream,  whipped.  Excellent 
for  pineapple  or  other  fruit  salad  when  served  as  a  com- 
bination salad  and  dessert. 


YOUR    RECIPES  173 


LIBERTY   DESSERTS 
Easily    Made — Not    Expensive — Wholesome 

Remember  to  estimate  the  dessert  as  part  of  the 
nourishment  of  a  meal,  not  as  an  extra  for  pleasure 
only.  Sugar,  fats,  wheat  flour  are  precious  foods  and 
must  be  used  as  such,  not  as  luxuries.  Cream  is  a 
most  valuable  food  and  one  of  the  most  wholesome 
forms  in  which  fat  can  be  taken;  in  addition,  its  use 
insures  attractive  dishes  with  little  labor  and  no  cook- 
ing. It  must,  however,  during  our  period  of  milk 
shortage,  be  used  with  the  utmost  judgment  and  fair- 
ness. 

12 


174        FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 


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YOUR    RECIPES  175 


Apple  Charlotte 

GREASE  a  rather  shallow  tin  cake  pan;  one  with  a 
tube  in  the  center  is  best.  Cover  the  bottom  with 
a  layer  of  crushed  dry  bread-crumbs;  add  a  layer  of  well- 
made,  sweetened  apple  sauce,  and  dot  this  with  a  few  bits 
of  quince  or  other  preserve.  Now  add  another  layer  of 
crumbs,  then  more  apple  sauce,  the  bits  of  preserve,  and 
continue  until  the  pan  is  full.  The  last  layer  should  be 
of  crumbs.  Cover  top  with  bits  of  butter  substitute. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  a  rich  brown — about  forty 
minutes.  When  slightly  cool,  turn  out  onto  an  attractive 
dish.  Serve  warm  with  cream,  or  with  Custard  or  Ice- 
cream Sauce-  or  serve  cold  without  cream  or  sauce. 


Pears,  Delicious 

PEEL  ripe  pears;  do  not  cut  off  the  stems.  Cut  them 
into  halves.  Cook  in  a  rather  heavy  syrup  until  very 
tender.  A  few  cloves  may  be  added  to  pears  while  cook- 
ing. When  done,  drain  pears,  and  arrange  pieces  on  thin 
slices  of  toast.  The  toast  should  be  cut  to  fit  the  pears, 
and  each  slice  dipped  into  the  hot  syrup  before  it  is  put 
on  the  plate.  Top  each  portion  with  a  few  preserved 
strawberries,  bits  of  quince,  or  peach,  or  any  other  pre- 
served fruit  that  may  be  convenient.  Add  a  spoonful  of 
whipped  cream,  if  available.  What  remains  of  the  syrup 
may  be  poured  around  the  pears  on  the  dish.  If  cream  is 
not  available,  the  pears  may  be  served  plain  or  with  a 
Custard  Sauce. 


176         FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Strawberry  Rice 

Ingredients 

%  cupful  rice  34  level  teaspoonful  salt 

3  cupfuls  milk  1  cupful  ripe  berries 

For  Strawberry  Sauce 
1  cupful  ripe  berries  1  cupful  sugar 

}/2  cupful  water  Chipped  rind  ^  orange 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  I  hour,  about 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

WASH  the  rice.  Put  the  milk  into  a  double  boiler, 
add  the  rice,  salt,  and  cook  until  the  rice  is  soft 
and  has  absorbed  all  the  milk.  This  will  take  about  one 
hour.  Turn  into  individual  cups  or  a  large  mold,  and  when 
cold  turn  out  and  serve  with  Strawberry  Sauce. 

To  make  the  sauce:  Put  the  sugar  and  the  water  and  the 
orange  rind  into  a  small  saucepan;  heat  slowly,  stirring, 
until  sugar  is  dissolved;  boil  gently  to  a  heavy  syrup,  one 
that  will  spin  a  thread  when  dropped  from  the  tip  of  a 
clean  spoon.  Remove  from  the  fire,  add  the  berries,  which 
have  been  carefully  washed,  hulled,  and  cut  into  halves. 


Pineapple  Tapioca 

Ingredients 

1  small  pineapple,  shredded  and        \%  cupfuls  water 

sweetened  \i  level  teaspoonful  salt 

H  cupful  fine  tapioca  ^  cupful  sugar 

Juice  of  1  orange 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  45  minutes 
Number  served:  6  persons 

BRING  water  to  boiling-point,  add  salt,  stir  in  tapioca, 
and  cook  until  thick.  Add  sugar,  pineapple,  cover 
and  let  cook  until  clear.  Add  orange  juice,  pour  into  in- 
dividual glasses.  Serve  slightly  warm.  Pass  Ice-cream 
sauce. 

To  make  sauce:  Beat  one  egg  yolk  until  light,  add 
one-fourth  cupful  confectioners'  sugar  and  one-half  cupful 
cream,  whipped,  but  not  too  stiff. 


YOUR    RECIPES  177 

Date-Nut  Puddings 

Ingredients 

%  cupful  soft  bread-crumbs  ]4  cupful  sugar 

H   cupful  chopped   walnuts  or  1  level  tablespoonful  butter  sub- 
pecans  stitute 

K  cupful  dates,  chopped  H  cupful  milk 

%     level     teaspoonful     baking-  1  egg;  pinch  of  salt 
powder 

Time:  Preparation,  15  minutes;  baking,  30  minutes 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

MIX  dry  ingredients;  add  fat,  melted,  and  milk  and 
egg,  beaten  together.  Pour  into  well-greased  gem- 
pans;  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  a  golden  brown.  Serve 
warm  with  cream,  or  Lemon  Sauce. 

To  make  sauce:  Mix  two  level  tablespoonfuls  corn- 
starch, an  equal  quantity  of  butter  substitute,  one-half 
cupful  sugar*,  and  one  egg.  Add  two  cupfuls  boiling  water, 
and  cook  carefully,  stirring,  until  smooth  and  rather  thick. 
Remove  from  fire,  add  juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon, 
and  a  few  grains  of  salt. 


Zuni  Peach  Pudding 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  fine  cornmeal  2  eggs 

1  cupful  flour  1  cupful  milk 

^  level  teaspoonful  salt  K  cupful  granulated  sugar 

4     level     teaspoonfuls     baking-  14  level  teaspoonful  ground  cin- 

powder  namon 

3  level  tablespoonfuls  melted  fat  Ripe  peaches,  peeled  and  halved 

Time:  Preparation,  15  minutes;  baking,  35  minutes 
Number  served:  6-8  persons 

MIX  meal,  flour,  salt,  baking-powder.  Beat  eggs  until 
light,  add  milk;  add  this  to  dry  ingredients;  beat 
thoroughly.  Add  melted  fat,  mix;  pour  batter  into  a 
shallow  baking-pan.  Lay  the  halved  peaches  on  top, 
pressing  them  lightly  into  the  matter;  cover  with  the 
sugar  and  cinnamon,  mixed;  dot  top  with  a  few  bits  of 
butter.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  until  peaches 
are  soft,  and  pudding  a  rich  golden  brown.  Serve  warm 
with  milk,  cream,  or  peach  syrup. 


178        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Thanksgiving  Pudding 

Ingredients 

K  cupful  suet,  finely  chopped  1)4    cupfuls    figs    and    raisins, 

1}4  cupfuls  flour  mixed,  cut  small 

}4  level  teaspoonful  baking-soda  1  level  teaspoonful  ginger 

}4  level  teaspoonful  salt  14  level  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

14  cupful  molasses  j^     level     teaspoonful     ground 

}4  cupful  milk  cloves 

Time:  Preparation,  15  minutes;  steaming,  2yi  to  3  hours 
Number  served:  4-6  persons 

SIFT  soda,  salt,  spices  with  flour;  add  suet,  molasses, 
milk;  mix  well.  Add  figs  and  raisins,  well  floured. 
Turn  into  a  well-greased  mold;  cover,  and  steam.  Do  not 
disturb  steamer  while  pudding  is  cooking.  Serve  hot  with 
Hard  Sauce,  made  with  butter  substitute. 


Christmas  Pudding 

Ingredients 

1  pound  suet,  finely  chopped  %  pound  citron,  shredded 

M  pound  bread-crumbs,  not  too  Y^  nutmeg,  grated 

dry  )4  pound  walnuts  and  almonds, 
1  cupful  flour,  sifted  chopped 

1  pound  seeded  raisins  M  cupful  grape  juice 

%  pound  cleaned  currants  %  cupful  orange  juice 

yi  pound  figs,  finely  chopped  5  eggs 

\i  pound  candied  orange  peel,  \x/i  level  teaspoonful* salt 

shredded 

Time:  Preparation,  1  hour;  steaming,  8  hours  .  • 

Number  served:  Recipe  makes  6  pounds  of  pudding 

TWTIX  fruit,  nuts,  citron,  flour,  add  salt,  suet,  nutmeg, 
WX  crumbs;  mix  again.  Beat  eggs,  without  separating, 
until  light;  add  fruit  juice.  Pour  this  over  the  dry  mix- 
ture; mix  well  until  all  is  moist.  Pack  in  covered  greased 
pails  or  molds;  steam  eight  hours.  When  done,  remove 
covers;  when  cold,  re-cover;  put  away  until  ready  to  use. 
This  keeps  indefinitely.  Resteam  several  hours  before 
serving.  Pass  Hard  or  Foamy  Sauce.  (Adapted  from 
Mrs.  Rorer's  recipe.) 


YOUR    RECIPES  179 

Quick  Strawberry  Dumpling 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  flour  1  level  tablespoonful  butter  sub- 
yi  level  teaspoonful  salt  stitute 

2  level    teaspoonfuls    baking-         %  cupful  milk,  about 

powder  Fresh  strawberries;  sugar 

Time:  Preparation,  8  minutes;  steaming,  40  minutes 
Number  served:  3  persons 

MIX  and  sift  dry  ingredients;  rub  in  the  butter;  moisten 
with  just  enough  milk  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Divide 
dough  into  two  parts;  pat  out  each  piece.  Lay  one  piece 
in  bottom  of  greased,  small,  enameled  bowl,  spreading 
dough  so  that  bowl  is  partly  lined.  Fill  center  with  berries, 
sprinkle  with  sugar;  cover  with  second  piece  of  dough. 
Place  in  steamer,  cover,  steam  continuously  until  done. 
Serve  hot  with  Strawberry  Hard  Sauce.  Other  fruits  may 
be  substituted. 

To  make  sauce:  Cream  one- third  cupful  butter,  or  nut 
butter,  add  one  cupful  confectioners'  sugar,  and  several 
large  berries;  beat  well. 


Banana  Charlotte 

Ingredients 

2  large,  ripe  bananas  H  cupful  powdered  sugar 

1  tablespoonful  orange  juice  1  cupful  cream,  whipped 

12  ladyfingers 

Time:  Preparation,  15  minutes 
Number  served:  4  persons 

PEEL  bananas,  crush  to  a  pulp;  add  orange  juice  and 
sugar.  Fold  in  the  whipped  cream.  Mix  lightly. 
Heap  in  individual  glasses,  lined  with  split  ladyfingers. 
Garnish  with  chopped  candied  pineapple;  top  with  a 
crystallized  mint  leaf.  Easily  and  quickly  made,  and  nice 
enough  for  any  company  dessert,  also  a  good  dessert  for 
the  meal  at  which  no  butter  has  been  served, 


180       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Maple  Cream 

Ingredients 

4  cupfuls  thin  cream  1  cupful  maple  syrup 

Yi  teaspoonful  maple  extract 

Time:  Preparation,  8  minutes;  freezing,  25  minutes 
Number  served:  6  persons 

TWTIX  syrup  and  cream;  add  flavoring;  freeze.  When 
*►▼«•  frozen,  repack  freezer  and  stand  aside  for  an  hour 
or  two.     A  soft  custard  may  be  substituted  for  cream. 


Florida  Ice 

PEEL  three  ripe  bananas;  crush  these  to  a  pulp;  add 
juice  of  two  lemons  and  four  oranges.  Boil  three 
cupfuls  water  and  two  cupfuls  sugar,  and  chipped  rind  of 
one  lemon  and  one  orange  together  for  eight  minutes. 
Remove  from  fire,  and  when  cool  combine  with  the  fruit 
mixture.    Turn  into  a  freezer  and  freeze. 


Frozen  Peaches 

Ingredients 

6  large,  ripe  peaches  (or  8  small  5  peach  kernels,  crushed 

ones)  White  of  1  egg 

3  cupfuls  water  2  level  tablespoonfuls  powdered 
2  cupfuls  sugar  sugar 

Time:  Preparation,  20  minutes;  freezing,  25  minutes 
Number  served:  6-8  persons 

WASH,  peel,  and  crush  peaches.  Boil  water,  sugar, 
peach  skins,  and  kernels  together  for  eight  minutes. 
Strain;  when  cold,  add  crushed  peaches;  freeze.  When 
frozen,  add  the  white  of  the  egg,  which  has  been  beaten 
to  a  stiff  meringue,  with  the  powdered  sugar  added.  Re- 
pack, and  let  stand  an  hour  before  serving.  An  econom- 
ical frozen  dessert;  utilizes  perishable  fruit,  and  requires 
no  cream. 


YOUR    RECIPES  181 

A  Good  Sponge  Cake 

Ingredients 

3  eggs  \i  cupful  warm  water 

1  cupful  sugar  1  cupful  flour 

M.  level  teaspoonful  salt  1 Y2   level   teaspoonfuls   baking- 
Juice  and  rind  H  lemon  powder 

Time:  Preparation,  10  minutes;  baking,  35  minutes 
Number  served:    Recipe  makes  one  large  loaf 

SEPARATE  eggs;  beat  yolks  until  very  light;  add  sugar 
gradually  and  continue  beating.  Add  salt,  lemon, 
water,  flour,  baking-powder;  beat  well.  Fold  in  the 
stiffly  beaten  whites.  Pour  into  a  round,  or  narrow, 
oblong  tin  which  has  been  lightly  greased  and  sprinkled 
on  the  inside  with  granulated  sugar.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven — 3500  F.  This  also  makes  a  good  layer  cake. 
(Credit  Boston  Cooking  School.) 


Corn  Cup  Cakes 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  commeal  K  cupful  sugar 

%  cupful  boiling  water  1  cupful  wheat  flour 

Yl  level  teaspoonful  salt  2  eggs 

l/i  cupful  vegetable  shortening,         4    level    teaspoonfuls    baking- 
scant  powder 
*      %  cupful  milk,  scant 

Time:  Preparation,  40  minutes;  baking,  25  minutes 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  12  cakes 

PUT  meal  into  a  bowl,  add  salt,  shortening,  boiling 
water;  mix;  let  stand  thirty  minutes  or  longer.  Now 
add  sugar,  egg  yolks,  baking-powder,  milk,  flour;  beat  well; 
fold  in  carefully  stiffly  beaten  whites.  Pour  into  hot, 
greased  gem-pans,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven. 
Serve  fresh.  These  are  delicious  for  supper  with  hot 
cocoa  and  stewed  fruit;  also  good  for  the  school  lunch 
basket. 


182       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 
Come  Again  Cake 

Ingredients 

1  cupful  granulated  sugar  1  level  teaspoonful  allspice 

Y  cupful  brown  sugar  1  level  teaspoonful  cinnamon 

Y  cupful  syrup  or  honey  J^  level  teaspoonful  salt 

1  cupful  flour;  3  eggs  1     level     teaspoonful     baking- 
%    pound    cooking    chocolate,  powder 

grated  %  pound  chopped  almonds,  not 
1  level  teaspoonful  cloves  blanched 

Time:   Preparation,  15  minutes;  baking,  45  minutes 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  one  large  loaf 

BEAT  eggs  without  separating;  add  sugar,  syrup, 
chocolate,  salt,  spices,  baking-powder,  flour,  nuts; 
mix  well.  Pour  into  a  square,  shallow  pan  lined  with 
floured  paper.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  (3400  F.)  until 
dry  on  the  surface  and  a  rich  brown  color.  When  done, 
and  while  still  warm,  cut  into  strips;  then  remove  from 
pan,  pulling  off  the  paper.  This  should  be  sticky  on  the 
inside,  with  a  sugary  crust.     Good  for  picnics. 


Liberty  Fruit  Cake 

Ingredients 

1  level  teaspoonful  baking-soda  1  level  teaspoonful  ground  cin- 

%  level  teaspoonful  salt  namon 

1  tablespoonful  warm  water  ^£  level  teaspoonful  ground  all- 

Y  cupful  sour  cream  spice  and  ginger,  each 

Yl  cupful  sour  milk  1*4  cupfuls  seeded  raisins* 
M  cupful  brown  sugar  floured 

Y  cupful  molasses  3^  cupful  sliced  citron  and  figs, 
1 Y2  cupfuls  rye  flour  each 

1  cupful  white  flour,  about 

Time:  Preparation,  25  minutes;  baking,   1  hour 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  one  large  loaf 

T^\ISSOLVE  soda  in  warm  water;  add  salt,  sour  cream, 
■*V  milk,  molasses,  sugar,  spices;  mix  well.  Add  flour 
gradually,  beating  until  smooth;  stir  in  floured  fruit. 
Pour  into  a  greased  baking-pan ;  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 


YOUR    RECIPES  183 

Lace  Cookies 

Ingredients 

2  eggs  y%  tcaspoonful  vanilla 

%  level  teaspoonful  salt  y2  tablespoonful  melted  fat 

Y*  cupful  granulated  sugar  1%  cupfuls  rolled  oats 

\i  cupful  syrup  or  honey  %  cupful  shredded  cocoanut 

Time:  Preparation,  10  minutes;  baking,  20  minutes 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  30  cookies 

TDREAK  eggs  into  a  bowl;  beat  well;  add  salt,  sugar, 
-1— '  syrup,  vanilla;  beat.  Add  fat,  oats,  cocoanut;  mix. 
Drop  in  small  teaspoonfuls  onto  a  lightly  greased  cooky- 
pan;  bake  in  a  very  moderate  oven  until  a  light  golden 
brown.  When  properly  baked  these  are  deliciously  sticky 
and  crisp — a  cake,  candy,  and  food  "in  one."  With 
fresh  fruit,  a  good  dessert.  The  fat  may  be  omitted  en- 
tirely, if  desired.  One  cupful  sugar  may  be  used  in  place 
of  part  sugar  and  part  honey. 

Christmas  Jumbles 

Ingredients 

K  cupful  butter  substitute  2  cupfuls  white  flour,  about 

1  cupful  granulated  sugar  ^  cupful  rye  flour 

K  level  teaspoonful  salt,  about         4     level     teaspoonfuls     baking- 
Juice  and  rind  of  1  orange  powder 
1  egg                                                        Shredded  cocoanut 
Orange  marmalade 

Time:  Preparation,  25  minutes;  baking,  15  minutes 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  35  cookies 

CREAM  shortening;  add  salt,  sugar,  mix.  Add  egg, 
beaten  without  separating,  and  orange  juice  and  rind; 
beat  well.  Add  baking-powder,  and  enough  flour  to  make 
a  stiff  dough.  Roll  into  a  thin  sheet ;  cut  into  fancy  shapes; 
brush  with  beaten  white  of  egg  and  water;  place  a  little 
orange  marmalade  in  center  of  each  cooky;  sprinkle  with 
shredded  cocoanut.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Chopped 
walnuts  or  pecans  may  be  used  in  place  of   cocoanut. 


i84       FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 


MISCELLANEOUS  DISHES 

Easily  Prepared,   and  Good  for  Fuel  and 
Labor-saving  Meals 


YOUR    RECIPES  185 

Sardine  Canapes 

"D  EMOVE  skin  and  bones  from  a  can  of  good  quality 
-*-^  sardines.  Rub  sardines  to  a  paste,  season  with 
pepper,  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  few  drops  of 
Worcestershire  sauce.  Add  half  a  dozen  finely  chopped 
pimento  olives.  Have  ready  small,  thin  triangles  or  rounds 
of  bread,  toasted  on  one  side.  Butter  the  untoasted  side 
lightly,  spread  generously  with  the  sardine  paste.  In  the 
center  of  each  canape  place  one  whole  pimento  olive,  and 
top  with  a  little  white  or  yolk  of  hard-cooked  egg  pressed 
through  a  sieve. 

Ripe  Olive  Sandwiches 

^PO  fresh  cottage  cheese  add  an  equal  quantity  of  chopped 
-*-    ripe  olives.     Moisten  with  a  little  cream.    Spread  be- 
tween thin  slices  of  bread.    Cut  into  fancy  shapes. 


Scotch  Woodcock 


SPREAD  thin  slices  of  hot  toast  lightly  with  anchovy 
paste.     Cover  each  slice  with  a  spoonful  of  scrambled 
egg,  sprinkle  with  chopped  parsley.    Serve  at  once. 


Horseradish  Cream 


MIX  three  level  tablespoonfuls  grated  horseradish,  one 
tablespoonful  vinegar,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  salt, 
one-sixth  teaspoonful  paprika;  add  one-half  cupful  whipped 
cream.  Serve  with  sliced  cold  beef  or  tongue.  If  bottled 
horseradish  is  used,  press  dry  and  omit  vinegar. 


Magic  Aspic 


SOAK  one-half  box  granulated  gelatine  in  one-half  cupful 
cold  water.  When  soft,  add  two  cupfuls  boiling  water 
in  which  three  bouillon  cubes  have  been  dissolved;  add 
a  few  drops  onion  juice,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and 
strain  into  a  shallow  pan.  Set  in  a  cold  place  to  harden. 
An  excellent  spring  garnish  for  cold  meat  dishes. 


1 86       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Marrow  Balls 

Ingredients 

4  level  tablespoonfuls  beef  marrow    Soft  bread-crumbs 
2  eggs  Chopped  parsley 

Salt;  pepper  A  little  grated  nutmeg 

Time:  Preparation,  15  minutes;  cooking,  5  minutes 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  12  small  balls 

TD  EMOVE  marrow  from  an  uncooked  beef  shin-bone. 
■*\  Heat  gently  until  melted;  strain;  stand  aside  until 
cold.  Beat  this  to  a  cream;  add  eggs,  unbeaten,  seasoning, 
and  parsley;  mix.  Now  add  all  the  soft,  stale  bread-crumbs 
the  mixture  will  hold.  Shape  into  small  balls;  let  stand 
in  a  cold  place  until  firm.  Serve  as  a  garnish  with  beef 
or  chicken  soup.  To  cook:  Drop  balls  into  the  hot  soup, 
and  simmer  gently  until  balls  float.  This  will  take  about 
five  minutes.  Marrow  is  a  good  fat,  and  should  not  be 
wasted  these  days.  Balls  may  also  be  used  as  a  garnish 
for  spinach. 


Cheese  Marguerites 

SPREAD  small  whole-wheat  or  graham  crackers  with 
currant,  quince,  or  any  other  favorite  jelly.  Press 
a  small,  dry  cream  cheese  through  a  sieve.  Place  a  spoonful 
of  this  cheese  in  the  center  of  each  wafer.  Top  with  a 
salted  peanut.  Serve  with  salad.  Cottage  cheese  may 
be  substituted  for  cream  cheese. 


French  Toast 

TDEAT  two  eggs,  add  one  cupful  milk,  one-fourth  tea- 
-*— *  spoonful  salt;  mix.  Cut  stale  bread  into  slices,  re- 
moving crusts.  Dip  into  milk  and  egg,  allowing  it  to 
remain  until  soft.  Saute"  in  nut  butter  until  brown  on  both 
sides;  or  toast,  in  gas  oven,  and  spread  with  butter. 
Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and  cinnamon.  Serve  plain 
or  with  stewed  fruit. 


YOUR    RECIPES  187 

Caramelled  Bananas 

"DEEL  ripe  bananas;  cut  into  halves  lengthwise.  Put 
^  three  level  tablespoonfuls  nut  butter  (or  other  vege- 
table shortening)  into  a  frying-pan;  add  an  equal  quantity 
molasses.  Heat  slowly — there  should  be  enough  to  well 
cover  bottom  of  pan;  lay  in  bananas.  Cook  carefully 
until  brown  on  one  side;  turn,  and  brown  other  side.  Serve 
warm  with  poultry,  in  place  of  potatoes;  or  as  a  dessert. 


Spiced  Windfalls 

USE  well-flavored,  juicy,  red  apples.  Wash,  cut  into 
quarters,  remove  core,  do  not  peel.  Stick  a  clove  or  two 
into  each  piece.  Fill  a  deep,  earthen  baker  with  the  apples, 
cover  with  brown  sugar  through  which  a  little  cinnamon 
has  been  mixed.  Add  a  spoonful  or  two  of  water;  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven  until  soft  and  sticky.  Serve  warm 
with  poultry,  or  as  a  luncheon  dessert  with  war  bread. 


Caramelled  Apples 


PARE,  core  and  cut  large  apples  crosswise  in  one-third- 
inch  slices;  cut  each  slice  in  half.  Put  two  level  table- 
spoonfuls  butter,  two  of  water,  and  four  of  brown  sugar 
into  the  chafing-dish.  When  hot,  add  apples,  cook  slowly 
and  turn  until  apples  are  tender  and  brown  on  both  sides. 


Candied  Cranberries 

PICK  over  and  wash  the  berries.  Put  them  into  an 
earthen  baking-dish.  Cover  with  sugar,  allowing 
about  one  cupful  to  each  three  cupfuls  of  berries.  Add 
half  a  dozen  cloves,  or  more;  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
one  hour,  or  until  berries  are  tender  and  clear-looking. 
Keep  the  dish  covered  for  the  first  fifteen  minutes.  These 
are  delicious,  easily  prepared,  and  somewhat  resemble 
candied  cherries.    Excellent  with  turkey  or  other  poultry. 


188        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 
Prunes  and  Barley 

SOAK  fine  pearl  barley  overnight  in  cold  water.  Next 
morning  cook  until  tender,  adding  water  and  salt,  as 
necessary.  Remove  from  fire,  drain  off  any  excess  water 
(saving  this  for  soup),  and  mix  with  the  barley  an  equal 
quantity  of  carefully  stewed  prunes.  Sweeten  with  a  little 
brown  sugar;  let  all  heat  together  a  few  moments.  Serve 
warm  for  breakfast  or  supper  with  milk  or  cream.  Excel- 
lent for  children. 


Nut-Honey  Sandwiches 

TO  one-half  cupful  honey  add  all  the  finely  chopped 
mixed  nuts  it  will  hold.  Pecans  and  walnuts  are  par- 
ticularly good.  Spread  between  thin  slices  of  oatmeal- 
rye  bread  lightly  spread  with  cream  cheese. 


Fig  Filling 

Ingredients 

%  pound  figs  M  cupful  water 

Yl  pound  seeded  raisins  Grated  rind  half  a  lemon 

}4,  cupful  sugar  1  tablespoonful  orange  juice 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  20  minutes 
Number  served:  Recipe  makes  2  cupfuls  filling 

SCALD  figs  if  necessary.  Chop  figs  and  raisins  very  fine, 
or  put  them  through  the  meat-grinder.  Add  sugar, 
water,  lemon  rind,  and  cook  slowly,  stirring  until  fruit  is 
thick  and  smooth.  Remove  from  fire,  add  orange  juice, 
cool  slightly,  and  it  is  ready  to  use.  An  excellent  filling 
for  white  cake,  or  for  "filled"  cookies  (cookies  put  together 
with  the  filling  between  and  then  baked),  or  for  fancy 
sandwiches. 


YOUR    RECIPES  189 

Iced  Chocolate 

Ingredients 

1  quart  water  %  cupful  granulated  sugar 

1  quart  milk  2  cupfuls  whipped  cream 

%  cupful  powdered  cocoa  1  teaspoonful  vanilla 

Shaved  ice 

Time:  Preparation  and  cooking,  20  minutes 
Number  served:  10-12  persons 

TV/TIX  cocoa  and  sugar,  add  a  little  of  the  water,  mix  to 
■*■"  a  paste,  add  remainder  of  the  water.  Bring  this  to 
the  boiling-point,  boil  for  three  minutes,  add  the  milk 
and  bring  to  the  boiling-point  again.  Remove  from  the 
fire,  cool,  add  vanilla.  Strain  into  tall  glasses  half  full  of 
crushed  ice;  top  each  glass  with  a  spoonful  of  whipped 
cream.  This  chocolate  is  simpler  to  make  than  ice-cream, 
and  quite  as  enjoyable.    Recipe  is  easily  divided. 


Lemonade  Syrup 

"DOIL  four  cupfuls  sugar,  the  chipped  yellow  rind  of 
■*-* '  four  lemons,  with  one  quart  water  for  ten  minutes. 
Cool,  strain  into  a  jar  or  bottle,  cover,  and  keep  on  hand 
in  refrigerator.  When  lemonade  is  needed  put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  syrup  into  a  tall  glass,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
plenty  of  shaved  ice,  and  fill  with  water.  Top  with  a 
slice  of  lemon  or  one  or  two  berries.  If  small  glasses  are 
used,  half  a  lemon  is  enough.  Orange  or  other  fruit  juice 
may  be  substituted  for  lemon.     Prevents  sugar  waste. 


Ice  Cream  Sauce 

BEAT  one  egg  yolk  until  light;  add  one-fourth  cupful 
confectioners'  sugar,  and  one-half  cupful  cream, 
whipped — but  not  too  staff.  A  delicious  sauce,  very  easily 
made.  Good  with  tapioca  puddings,  fruit  jellies,  or  sliced 
fresh  fruit.  With  fresh  strawberries  or  sliced  bananas, 
or  these  two  fruits  combined,  it  makes  a  dish  that  is  as 
good  as  ice-cream,  is  much  less  trouble,  and  requires  less 
cream. 
13 


X 


PRESERVING   AND    STORING   FOOD 

Prevent  food  waste  by  being  ready  to  can,  preserve, 
dry,  pickle,  salt,  or  store  surplus  fruits  and  vegetables. 
See  that  everything  needed  is  at  hand  and  ready  to  use. 
Do  not  have  an  empty  container  in  your  home  as  winter 
approaches. — From  United  States  Department  of  Agri- 
culture. 

F  food  products  are  left  in  their  natural 
state,  most  of  them  spoil  in  a  few 
hours  or  a  few  days,  owing  to  the 
growth  on  their  surface  or  in  their 
tissues  of  bacteria,  molds,  or  other  organisms  of 
decay.  If  such  organisms  can  be  killed,  and  the 
entrance  of  other  organisms  prevented,  the  food 
can  be  kept  in  good  condition  practically  indefi- 
nitely. * 

There  are  many  methods  of  preserving  sur- 
plus food  against  future  need — canning,  drying, 
jelly-making,  sweet  " preserves,' '  salting,  smok- 
ing, pickling,  also  natural  storage  and  refrigera- 

1  Bulletin  839,  United  States  Department  of  Agricult- 
ure. 


PRESERVING  AND  STORING  FOOD  191 

tion.  Of  these,  canning,  drying,  and  storing  are, 
.  perhaps,  the  most  economical  and  practical  for 
general  home  needs  and  common  practice;  jelly- 
making,  and  some  forms  of  pickling,  are  desirable 
at  times.  The  proper  curing  of  meats  requires 
special  knowledge  and  skill,  and  should  not  be 
attempted  without  this.  Under  the  present 
food  stress,  whatever  method  will  best  conserve 
possible  food  waste  and  produce  greatest  returns 
for  the  time  and  money  spent — including  ma- 
terials, fuel,  and  containers — should  be  favored. 
Food  not  properly  preserved,  whatever  the  method 
followed,  is  wasted  rather  than  conserved. 

Reliable  instructions  and  excellent  recipes  for 
all  usual  home  methods  of  preserving  food  may 
be  found  in  the  books  and  bulletins  listed  at  the 
close  of  this  chapter.  The  following  summary  of 
principles  and  methods  used  in  canning,  jelly- 
making,  drying,  and  storing  may  be  helpful,  how- 
ever, and  serve  as  a  background  for  the  successful 
application  of  more  detailed  knowledge. 

CANNING: 

Principles: 

The  important  point  in  the  canning  of  foods, 
whatever  the  method  employed,  is  the  destruc- 
tion of  all  organisms — in  any  state  of  develop- 
ment— which  may  be  present  on  or  in  the  food, 
and  to  prevent,  by  means  of  proper  protection, 


i92       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

all  further  contamination.  In  canning,  this 
destruction  of  organisms  is  accomplished  by 
means  of  heat,  and  is  known  as  sterilization. 


Method: 


The  cold-pack  method  is  now  accepted  as  the 
easiest,  quickest,  and  surest  method  of  canning 
fruits,  vegetables,  meats,  fish,  and  soups.  It 
is  taught  by  the  United  States  Department  of 
Agriculture  to  canning  clubs  all  over  the  coun- 
try. It  is  also  the  method  in  use  in  commercial 
canning  factories.  The  sterilization,  completed 
in  a  single  period,  is  done  after  the  food  is 
packed  in  jars  or  cans,  and  partly  sealed,  so 
that  bacteria  or  spores  cannot  enter  containers 
again  after  sterilization  is  completed.  The  proc- 
ess is  the  same  for  all  foods,  the  only  variation 
occurring  in  the  preparation  of  the  food  previous 
to  packing,  and  in  the  time  required  for  com- 
plete sterilization.  This  cold-pack  method  in- 
cludes the  following  steps: 

Assembling  equipment;  cleaning  containers. 

Grading,  washing,  special  preparation  of  food 
as  necessary. 

Blanching  in  live  steam,  or  boiling  water.  This 
is  similar  to  parboiling;  it  varies  in  time  from 
one  to  possibly  fifteen  minutes,  according  to 
quantity  handled;  it  cleanses,  removes  bitter 
qualities,  softens  fiber.  A  cheese-cloth  bag  or 
wire  basket  is  used  for  holding  the  food. 

Quick  dipping  in  very  cold  water — about  fifty 
degrees  Fahrenheit;   draining. 


PRESERVING  AND  STORING  FOOD  193 

Packing  in  clean,  hot  jars;  adjusting  new  rub- 
bers; filling  jars  at  once  to  overflowing  with 
boiling  water  or  syrup;  adjusting  covers  im- 
mediately;  partial  sealing. 

Placing  hot  jars  at  once  in  canning  outfit,  and 
surrounding  with  hot  water  as  required,  ac- 
cording to  outfit  used;   covering  outfit. 

Sterilizing  in  water-bath  or  steam-pressure  out- 
fit, as  preferred,  for  such  time  as  may  be  neces- 
sary. 

Removing  jars  from  outfit,  securing  lids;  invert- 
ing to  cool,  testing  joints,  labeling,  wrapping, 
storing. 

Equipment  for  cold-pack  canning: 

For  sterilizing  j  either  a  home-made  water-bath  out- 
fit, or  a  commercial  water-bath,  water-seal  or 
pressure-cooker  may  be  used. 

For  small -quantity  canning,  the  home-made 
outfit  is  practical.  For  this  either  a  wash-boiler, 
large  tin  pail,  or  aluminum  double  roasting-pan 
may  be  used.  It  is  necessary  to  place  a  rack  in 
the  bottom  of  the  kettle  on  which  to  rest  the 
jars.  The  rack  used  must  permit  water  to 
circulate  underneath;  wood  is  best;  do  not  use 
straw  or  cloths.  Lifting-handles  and  a  tight 
cover  are  essential.  The  water  must  surround 
every  jar,  circulate  between  the  jars,  and  cover 
tops  of  jars  by  at  least  one  inch.  Count  time  after 
water  begins  to  boil  or  jump  over  entire  surface; 
see  that  water  continues  to  boil  during  entire 
sterilizing  period. 


i94        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

For  large-quantity  canning,  commercial  canning 
outfits  are  most  efficient.  The  water-bath  out- 
fits are  frequently  constructed  for  out-of-door 
work  which  can  be  of  great  advantage;  these 
are  operated  in  the  same  way  as  the  home-made 
outfits. 

Commercial  pressure-cookers  save  time  and  fuel, 
and  are  well  adapted  for  corn,  meats,  and  other 
foods  where  complete  sterilization  is  sometimes 
difficult,  and  a  temperature  higher  than  the 
boiling-point  is  desirable.  When  using  a  press- 
ure-cooker, water  must  come  up  to  rack  or 
platform,  but  not  over  it;  the  cooker  must  be 
steam-tight,  and  operated  and  regulated  according 
to  directions  furnished  with  the  particular  canner 
used. 

For  containers  glass  jars  are  best  for  home  use. 
Rubbers  must  be  new  when  used,  of  the  best 
quality,  and  tested  before  using.  Other  neces- 
sary equipment  includes  a  sharp  paring-knife, 
measuring-cup  and  spoons,  a  wooden  spoon, 
a  wire  basket  or  cheese-cloth  bag  for  blanching 
and  dipping,  clean  towels,  a  "  lifter "  for  hot 
jars,  a  pail  for  scraps,  a  good  alarm-clock,  and 
a  stove  or  heating  device. 

Time  for  complete  sterilization  depends  upon  con- 
dition and  variety  of  fruit  and  vegetables,  upon  alti- 
tude, and  upon  the  type  of  canning  outfit  used. 
Freshly  gathered  fruit  or  vegetables  require  slightly 
less  time  than  those  which  have  been  allowed  to 
stand  several  hours.  For  altitudes  above  one 
thousand  feet,  time,  as  commonly  given  for  steril- 


PRESERVING  AND  STORING  FOOD  195 

ization,  should  be  increased  10  per  cent,  for  each 
five  hundred  feet.  When  a  water-seal  or  steam- 
pressure  is  used,  less  time  is  required  than  when  the 
water-bath  outfit  is  used.  A  time-table  is  supplied 
with  each  commercial  canner  sold.  When  using 
a  home-made  water-bath  outfit,  time  as  follows:1 

Soft  berries 12  to  16  minutes 

Peaches 12  to  16 

Apples 16  to  20 

Hard  fruits 20 

Corn 180 

Peas  and  lima  beans  2 180 

String  beans 120 

Greens 120 

Sweet  peppers 90 

Tomatoes 22 

Typical  Recipes  (See  Farmers'  Bulletin  839): 

String  beans:  Grade;  string;  blanch  in  live  steam 
5  to  15  minutes,  according  to  quantity;  dip 
into  very  cold  water;  drain;  pack  immediately 
into  clean,  hot  jars;  adjust  rubbers;  fill  jars 
to  overflowing  with  boiling  water,  adding  one 
level  teaspoonful  salt  to  each  quart;  seal  par- 
tially. Place  jars  in  canning  outfit;  surround 
with  hot  water  as  required  for  the  particular 
outfit  used.  Sterilize  in  water-bath  outfit  one 
period  of  120  minutes;  or  in  water-seal  outfit, 
90  minutes;  or  in  pressure-cooker — under  5 
pounds — 60  minutes;    or  in  pressure-cooker — 

1  Arranged  from  Farmers'  Bulletin  839,  United  States 
Department  of  Agriculture. 

2  If  very  young  and  freshly  gathered,  less  time  may  be 
required. 


i96        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

under  10  pounds — 40  minutes.  When  steriliza- 
tion is  complete,  remove  jars  at  once,  tighten 
covers,  invert  to  cool,  test,  wrap  in  paper,  store. 

Clear  boiling  water,  with  one  level  teaspoonful 
of  salt  to  each  quart,  is  used  for  all  vegetables 
with  the  exception  of  tomatoes ;  these  require  no 
water. 

Peaches:  Wash,  grade,  peel,1  halve  and  remove 
stones,  leaving  a  few  for  flavor;  rinse.  Pack 
fruit  at  once  into  clean,  hot  jars;  fill  jars  to  over- 
flowing with  boiling  syrup — thin  or  medium 
thin;  adjust  rubbers;  seal  partially.  Place  in 
canning  outfit,  and  surround  with  hot  water  as 
required  for  the  particular  outfit  in  use.  Sterilize 
in  water-bath  outfit,  16  minutes;  or  in  water-seal 
outfit,  10  minutes;  or  in  steam-pressure  outfit 
— under  10  pounds — 5  minutes.  Remove  jars 
at  once,  secure  lids,  invert-  to  cool,  test,  wrap, 
store. 

Fruit  may  be  canned  with  clear  water,  sugar 
syrup,  or  in  cases,  with  a  diluted  corn  syrup. 
In  making  sugar  syrup,  the  density  may  vary 
from  thin  to  medium  or  thick,  according  to  kind 
of  fruit  to  be  canned,  special  need  for  economy, 
or  individual  taste.  For  sweet  fruits — sweet 
berries,  peaches,  cherries — use  thin  syrup;  for 
sour  berries  and  other  sour  fruits,  use  medium- 
thick  syrup;  for  hard  fruits — pears,  apples, 
quinces — thin  to  medium-thin  syrup  may  be 
used. 

1  This  may  be  done  by  immersing  fruit  in  boiling  water, 
one  or  two  minutes,  until  skins  "sKp  easily,"  then  dipping 
into  cold  water  and  removing  skins. 


PRESERVING  AND  STORING  FOOD  197 

Thin  syrup  is  sugar  and  water  boiled  just  long 
enough  to  dissolve  all  of  the  sugar;  it  is  not 
sticky.  Such  syrup  has  a  density  of  from  12 
to  20  per  cent.  To  make  it  use  about  1  cupful 
sugar  to  5  cupfuls  water. 

Medium-thin  syrup  is  that  which  has  begun  to 
thicken  and  becomes  sticky  when  cooled  on  the 
tip  of  a  spoon;  it  has  a  density  varying  from 
20  to  40  per  cent.  To  make  it,  use  about  1  cupful 
sugar  to  3  cupfuls  water. 

Medium-thick  syrup  is  that  which  has  thickened 
enough  to  roll  up  over  the  edge  of  the  spoon 
when  it  is  poured  out;  its  density  varies  from 
40  to  50  per  cent.  To  make  it,  use  1  cupful 
sugar  to  1  cupful  water.1 

Only  an  expert  in  canning  should  attempt  meats 
and  soups.  Instructions  may  be  obtained  from  the 
United  States  Department  of  Agriculture. 

To  insure  success  in  all  canning ,  observe  the  following: 

Use  of  sound,  fresh  food  only. 
Careful  preparation;  quick  work. 
•  The  complete  filling  of  jars  or  cans. 
Surgical  cleanliness  in  every  detail. 
Complete  sterilization. 
Correct  timing;  an  alarm-clock  is  helpful. 
Perfect  sealing. 

1  Farmers'  Bulletin  839,  United  States  Department  of 
Agriculture,  contains  a  very  exact  "syrup  table,"  as  well 
as  detailed  recipes  and  instructions  for  the  canning  of 
fruits,  vegetables,  meats,  soups.  The  facts  as  outlined 
have  been  arranged  largely  from  material  published  in 
this  bulletin. 


198        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Never  use  artificial  preservatives  or  canning  "com- 
pounds" or  "powders."  These  are  unnecessary, 
many  are  harmful,  and  their  use  is  forbidden  or 
restricted  in  many  states  and  by  the  national  govern- 
ment. 

JELLY-MAKING: 

Principles: 

Jelly  is  made  by  combining  strained  fruit  juice 
and  sugar  in  certain  correct  proportions,  de- 
termined by  the  quality  of  the  fruit  juice,  and 
boiling  this  for  a  definite  length  of  time.  Good 
jelly  depends  upon  the  care  and  success  with 
which  this  is  accomplished.  "A  good  jelly 
should  be  bright,  of  good  color,  and  clear. 
When  removed  from  the  glass  and  cut,  it  should 
retain  its  shape.  It  should  sparkle,  and  be 
tender  enough  to  quiver  without  breaking." 

There  are  two  properties  that  should  be  present 
in  fruit  juice  in  order  to  make  perfect  jelly; 
these  are  pectose  or  pectin  and  acid.  Pectose  or 
pectin  is  the  "essential  jelly -making  material"; 
acid  is  desirable  largely  for  flavor. 

Pectose  is  an  insoluble  body  present  in  fruits 
when  under-ripe;  as  fruit  ripens,  pectose  is 
converted  into  pectin.  It  is  this  substance 
which  unites  with  the  sugar,  during  the  process 
of  jelly -making,  and  solidifies  or  "jells"  on 
cooling.  Pectose  unites  with  sugar  more 
readily  than  pectin,  therefore  fruit  that  is 
slightly  under-ripe  makes  the  better  jelly. 
Fruits  with  little  pectin  and  much  acid  do 
not  make  good  jelly. 


PRESERVING  AND  STORING  FOOD  199 

Fruits  commonly  rich  in  pectose  or  pectin  in- 
clude guavas,  quinces,  some  apples,  crab- 
apples,  partially  ripened  grapes,  black  cur- 
rants, and  red  currants  when  not  over-ripe. 
There  is  also  pectin  in  the  white  portion  of 
orange  peel,  and  in  green  citron  melon.  Rasp- 
berries, elderberries,  even  blueberries  >  when 
in  good  condition,  can  be  made  into  jelly. 

Fruits  lacking  in  pectin  include  strawberries, 
peaches,  cherries,  rhubarb.  These  are  not 
desirable  for  jelly,  unless  other  fruit  juice 
rich  in  pectin,  such  as  apple,  is  added  to  them. 

The  best  jelly  is  made  from  slightly  acid  fruit 
juice,  rich  in  pectose  or  pectin,  with  just  the 
right  amount  of  sugar  added  to  unite  with 
the  pectose  or  pectin,  and  consequently  "jell" 
properly.  If  too  much  sugar  is  added  for 
the  pectin  present  in  the  juice,  the  result 
will  be  syrupy  rather  than  solid,  with  possi- 
bilities of  crystallization;  if  too  little  sugar 
is  added,  the  jelly  will  be  tough.  Jelly  is  apt 
to  be  spoiled,  however,  by  using  too  much 
rather  than  too  little  sugar.  The  correct  pro- 
portion varies,  approximately,  from  }4  to  1 
cupful  of  sugar  to  each  cupful  of  juice.  Ex- 
cept in  the  case  of  currant  jelly,  }i  is  usually 
the  better  measure. 

To  prevent  waste  of  sugar  and  fruit,  and  to  in- 
sure a  good  jelly,  it  is  sometimes  wise  to  test 
the  collected  fruit  juice  for  pectin  before  making 

1  "Principles  of  Jelly-Making,"  N.  E.  Goldthwaite,  Ph.D., 
Bulletin,  University  of  Illinois,  Urbana,  111. 


2oo       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

it  up  into  jelly.  The  United  States  Department 
of  Agriculture  gives  the  following  test: 

Put  i  tablespoonful  95  per  cent,  grain 
alcohol  and  an  equal  quantity  of  cooled  fruit 
juice  into  a  glass  tumbler;  shake  gently; 
let  stand  for  half  an  hour.  The  effect  of  the 
alcohol  is  to  bring  the  pectin  together  in  a 
jelly-like  mass. 

If  much  pectin  is  present,  it  will  appear  in 
one  mass  or  clot  when  poured  from  the  glass; 
this  indicates  that  equal  quantities  of  juice 
and  sugar  may  be  used — 1  cupful  sugar  to  1 
cupful  juice. 

If  pectin  is  separated  in  small  clots,  not  slip- 
ping from  the  glass  in  one  mass,  less  sugar  will 
be  required — ^  cupful  sugar  to  1  cupful  juice. 

If  pectin  is  very  thin,  and  much  separated, 
the  juice  is  hardly  desirable  for  jelly-making; 
it  may  be  improved,  however,  by  cooking 
apples,  the  white  portion  of  orange  rind,  or 
some  green  citron  melon  with  it,  or  adding 
other  fruit  juice  rich  in  pectose  or  pectin. 

Correct  time  for  boiling  the  fruit  juice  and 
adding  the  sugar  at  the  proper  moment  are 
also  important  factors.  Some  jelly  may  be 
made  complete  in  10  or  15  minutes;  other  jelly 
may  require  20  or  30  minutes.  The  sugar — 
heated — should  be  added  to  the  juice  midway 
in  the  process,  or  a  little  toward  the  end — as 
nearly  as  can  be  determined.1   The  whole  process 

1  This  point  is  debatable,  however,  ancl  is  best  4ecide4 
by  individual  preference  or  success, 


PRESERVING  AND  STORING  FOOD  201 

of  jelly-making  should  be  done  as  quickly  as 
it  consistently  can,  however;  to  insure  this, 
work  in  small  quantities.  Long  cooking  tends 
to  destroy  the  pectin;  the  action  of  the  acid 
on  the  sugar  during  long  cooking  is  also  un- 
favorable, producing  in  the  end  a  syrup  rather 
than  a  jelly.1 

Method: 

Jelly-making  includes  the  following  steps: 

1.  Extracting  the  juice  from  the  fruit: 

To  extract  juice  from  soft,  watery  fruit — 
currants,  raspberries,  ripe  grapes,  etc. — 
place  fruit,  washed  as  necessary,  in  a  clean, 
large  white-enameled  or  aluminum  kettle; 
heat  gently,  stirring  and  mashing  as  fruit 
softens.  To  prevent  scorching,  the  addition 
of  a  very  little  water  is  sometimes  advised; 
this  should  not  be  necessary,  however,  and 
the  juice  is  better  without.  A  little  water  is 
sometimes  added  to  grapes,  particularly  when 
under-ripe.  Currant  juice  is  sometimes  ex- 
tracted by  crushing  the  fruit  without  previous 
heating.  Fruit  juice  "will  flow  more  readily," 
however,  when  heated,  and  the  heating  or 
cooking,  up  to  a  certain  point,  apparently  de- 
velops the  pectin.2 

1  Bulletin  853,  United  States  Department  of  Agricult- 
ure. Also,  "Principles  of  Jelly- Making,"  N.  E.  Gold- 
thwaite,  Ph.D.,  Bulletin,  University  of  Illinois,  Urbana,  111. 

2  Bulletin  853,  United  States  Departmen  tof  Agricult- 
ure. Also  "Principles  of  Jelly-making,"  N.  E.  Gold- 
thwaite,  Ph.D.,  Bulletin,  University  of  Illinois,  Urbana,  111. 


202       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

To  extract  juice  from  hard  fruits — apples, 
quinces,  etc. — place  prepared  fruit  in  a  kettle, 
and  barely  cover  with  water — allowing,  ap- 
proximately, from  i  to  2  cupfuls  of  water  to 
each  pound  of  fruit,  according  to  kind  and 
condition. 

Interesting  jellies,  both  in  color  and  flavor, 
may  be  made  by  variously  combining  different 
fruit  juices,  adding  spices,  or  the  leaves  of 
different  plants — such  as  mint,  sweet  gera- 
nium, cherry. 

2.  Straining  and  measuring  the  juice;  testing  for 
pectin,  if  desirable;  measuring  sugar;  placing 
sugar  in  pan  ready  for  heating. 

3.  Boiling  juice  previous  to  addition  of  sugar: 

This  is  done  to  clarify  juice,  evaporate  unnec- 
essary water,  and  to  reduce  time  of  cooking 
after  sugar  is  added. 

4.  Adding  sugar  to  boiled  fruit  juice: 

Sugar  should  be  hot  when  added,  so  as  not  to 
check  the  boiling  and  unnecessarily  lengthen 
the  cooking  process. 

5.  Testing  for  "jelly": 

This  is  the  critical  point  in  jelly-making,  and 
is  best  understood  and  mastered  through  ex- 
perience; it  may  occur  any  moment  after 
sugar  is  added,  and  should  be  anticipated, 
as  over-cooking  is  disastrous.  Syrup  boiled 
beyond   the    "jellying" -point   becomes   thin 


PRESERVING  AND  STORING  FOOD  203 

and  " syrupy.' '  Syrup  that  refuses  to  "jell" 
cannot  be  improved  by  long  cooking  or  the 
addition  of  more  sugar;  it  can  sometimes 
be  improved  by  the  addition  of  more  good 
fruit  juice. 

To  test  for  jelly,  examine  syrup  as  it  cools  on 
the  spoon  used  for  stirring ;  if  syrup  clings  to 
the  spoon  and  forms  a  sheet,  remove  jelly  at 
once  from  fire.1 

A  thermometer  may  also  be  used  for  testing, 
but  since  the  temperature  at  which  the 
"jellying "-point  occurs  varies  in  different 
fruits,  or  according  to  the  condition  of  the 
fruit  juice,  the  thermometer  test  is  not  nec- 
essarily infallible;  good  syrup  usually  "jells" 
approximately  between  2200  and  224°  Fah- 
renheit.1 

6.  Filling  glasses: 

When  jelly  is  ready,  pour  immediately  into 
hot  sterilized  glasses.  Let  cool  rapidly  in  a 
clean,  dry  place,  protecting  jelly  with  a  light 
cheese-cloth. 

7.  Sealing: 

When  cold,  cover  jelly  with  hot,  melted  paraf- 
fin. Tin  or  paper  covers  may  be  used  for 
extra  protection.  Labeling  is  attractive  and 
prevents  confusion. 

1  See  "Principles  of  Jelly-Making,"  N.  E.  Goldthwaite, 
Ph.D.,  Bulletin,  University  of  Illinois,  Urbana,  111. 

Also,  Farmers'  Bulletin  853,  United  States  Department 
of  Agriculture. 


2o4        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

Equipment  for  jelly-making  includes: 

A  small  stove  or  heating  device,  clean  towels 
and  paper,  sharp  paring-knives,  pail  for  scraps, 
white-enameled  or  aluminum  kettle,  measuring- 
cups,  scales,  wooden  spoons,  bag  or  cheese-cloth 
for  straining  jelly,  clock  for  timing,  thermometer 
or  syrup-gauge,  jelly-glasses  or  paraffin-paper 
cups,  paraffin,  covers,  labels. 

To  insure  success  in  jelly-making: 

Use  fresh,  sound  fruit,  not  over-ripe,  rich  in 
pectin  and  slightly  acid. 

Measure  correctly;  proportion  sugar  to  juice 
properly. 

Work  quickly. 

Do  not  over-cook  syrup. 

Pour  jelly,  when  ready,  immediately  into  steril- 
ized glasses. 

Seal  as  soon  as  cold  and  set;  keep  in  a  clean,  dry, 
light  place. 

JAMS,  FRUIT  BUTTERS,  MARMALADES: 

These  should  be  specially  considered  during  the 
present  food  shortage.  They  are  more  economical 
than  jelly  as  all  of  the  fruit  is  used,  fruit  otherwise 
good  but  not  desirable  for  jelly  can  be  used,  and 
less  sugar  is  required.  While  the  process  is  similar 
to  that  of  jelly -making,  it  is  less  exacting,  and  there 
is  little  opportunity  for  waste  or  error. 


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2o6       FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

garden  or  market-stand,  or  left-over  bits  from 
the  kitchen — may  be  saved  in  this  way.  For 
purposes  of  transportation  or  for  the  city  home, 
which  may  have  little  or  no  provision  for  stor- 
ing fresh  or  even  canned  food,  the  advantages 
are  particularly  apparent. 

Method: 

Three  methods  are  practical.  Sometimes  a 
combination  of  two,  or  even  three,  is  used. 
Food  to  be  dried  may  be  placed  on  open  rack 
trays  in  the  sun,  or  exposed  to  artificial  heat, 
or  dried  by  air-blast;  in  the  home  this  may 
be  created  by  a  natural  draught  of  air,  or  by 
artificial  means  such  as  an  electric  fan. 

Either  home-made  or  commercial  driers  may 
be  used.  Food  should  be  carefully  cleaned  be- 
fore drying,  and  protected  from  dust  and  insects 
while  drying.  Cutting  or  shredding  saves  time. 
The  time  required  varies;  the  process  should  be 
slow  enough  so  that  the  cut  surfaces  are  not 
hard  and  dry  before  the  inside  is  sufficiently 
dry;  at  the  same  time,  the  drying  should  not 
be  so  slow  that  souring  may  result.  The  tem- 
perature is  important  when  artificial  heat  is 
used.  A  very  gentle  heat  is  best  at  first,  possibly 
700  Fahrenheit;  this  should  be  gradually  in- 
creased as  moisture  escapes  to  1400  Fahrenheit. 
The  circulation  of  air  through  and  over  the  food 
is  as  important  as  heat.  Food  should  be  tossed 
and  turned  frequently  while  drying. 

When  properly  dried  and  "  conditioned/ '  the 
food    should    be    packed    in    small,    air  -  tight 


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A  HOME-MADE  DRYING  OUTFIT  THAT  IS  PRACTICAL  AND 
INEXPENSIVE;  ON  WARM,  BRIGHT  DAYS  A  FIRE  IS 
NOT   NECESSARY 


PRESERVING  AND  STORING  FOOD  207 

paper  bags,  boxes,  or  paraffin-paper  cartons. 
Not  more  than  enough  food  for  one  or  two  meals 
should  be  packed  in  each  container. 

Equipment: 

Equipment  for  home-drying  is  fully  described 
and  illustrated  in  Farmers'  Bulletin  841,  pub- 
lished by  the  United  States  Department  of 
Agriculture. 

The  home-made  outfit  illustrated  opposite  page 
206  is  novel,  practical,  inexpensive,  and  most 
efficient  for  comparatively  large  quantities  for 
household  use. 

"Community  drying/'  in  a  special  house  or 
plant  built  for  the  purpose  of  drying  fruits  and 
vegetables,  has  been  adopted  in  some  states. 
This  " drying-house"  may  be  rented  as  needed. 

"Itinerant  drying"  is  also  receiving  attention. 

Foods  suitable  for  drying  include  apples,  peaches, 
cherries,  plums,  some  berries,  beans,  cabbage, 
celery,  corn,  onions,  parsley,  parsnips,  potatoes, 
pumpkins,  squash,  turnips — and  others. 

STORING: 

Many  fruits  and  vegetables  may  be  kept  by  natural 
storage  in  a  dry  place  of  the  proper  temperature, 
either  indoors  in  the  cellar,  sometimes  in  a  "vege- 
table-attic," or  out  of  doors  in  properly  prepared 
pits  or  trenches.  Foods  suitable  for  natural  storage 
include,  principally,  apples,  pears,  potatoes,  and 


208        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

the  common  winter  vegetables  such  as  beets,  cab- 
bage, carrots,  onions,  turnips,  etc. 

For  the  country  home  with  a  garden,  winter  vege- 
tables suitable  for  storing  should  be  planned  for 
and  grown  to  the  extent  of  family  needs  for  winter 
use.  Natural  storage  is  simpler  and  cheaper  than 
either  canning  or  drying,  and  should  be  favored 
whenever  practical. 

REFERENCES: 

The  facts  as  outlined  in  the  preceding  chapter  have 
been  arranged  largely  from  material  published  by 
the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture;  full 
credit  is  given.  For  more  detailed  information,  and 
further  practical  help,  the  following  publications 
are  earnestly  recommended: 


f< 


Home  Canning'  by  the  One  Period  Cold  -  Pack 
Method,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  839. 

"Home  Canning  of  Fruits  and  Vegetables,"  Farmers' 
Bulletin  853. 

"Home-made  Fruit  Butters,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  900. 

"Preservation  of  Vegetables  by  Fermentation  and 
Salting,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  881. 

"Drying  Fruits  and  Vegetables  in  the  Home,"  Farm- 
ers' Bulletin  841. 

"Home  Storage  of  Vegetables,"  Farmers'  Bulletin  879. 

"A  Successful  Community  Drying  Plant,"  Farmers' 
Bulletin  916. 

Note. — These  bulletins  may  be  obtained  free  of  cost,  or 
for  a  nominal  sum,  by  addressing  the  Division  of 
Publications,  Government  Printing  Office,  United 
States  Department  of  Agriculture,  Washington, 
D.  C. 


PRESERVING  AND  STORING  FOOD    209 

"  Principles    of    Jelly-Making,"    N.    E.    Goldthwaite, 
Ph.D.,  Bulletin,  University  of  Illinois,  Urbana,  111. 
Successful  Canning  and  Preserving,  Ola  Powell. 

Note. — A  most  comprehensive  and  complete  volume, 
particularly  practical  and  inspiring  because  of  its 
one  hundred  and  sixty-four  illustrations,  and  the 
questionnaire  and  bibliography  at  the  close  of 
each  chapter.  To  those  really  interested  in  the 
successful  preserving  of  food — whether  by  can- 
ning, jelly-making,  pickling,  or  drying — such  a 
volume  is  invaluable. 

"Ten  Lessons  on  Food  Conservation,,,  Bulletin,  United 
States  Food  Administration. 

Recipes    and  excellent  suggestions  for   preserves, 
jellies,  pickling  may  be  found  in: 

The  Boston  Cooking-School  Cook  Book,  Fannie  Merritt 

Farmer. 
A  New  Book  of  Cookery,  Fannie  Merritt  Farmer. 
Canning,  Preserving,  Jelly-Making,  Janet  M.  Hill. 
Cooking  for  Two,  Janet  M.  Hill. 
Canning  and  Preserving,  Marion  Harris  Neil. 


XI 


A    KITCHEN    THAT   WILL    HELP    YOU 

Probably  the  greatest  aid  which  can  be  rendered  the 
woman  of  the  future  as  a  housekeeper  will  be  furnished 
by  the  American  domestic  architect.  Whether  man  or 
woman,  the  builder  of  American  homes  in  the  future  will 
make  a  very  special  study  of  the  convenience  and  comfort 
of  women  in  relation  to  their  household  problems. — The 
Craftsman  Magazine, 

INCE  the  sane  and  sound  theory  that 
household  service  is  really  a  source  of 
national  wealth  has  been  growing,  and 
since  women  are  now  realizing  the 
money  value  of  their  own  time  and  strength,  at 
the  same  time  electing  to  do  housework  them- 
selves rather  than  submit  to  the  wearing  effect 
of  the  old  order  of  irregular  and  unskilled  help 
— with  its  attendant  waste — the  attractive,  well- 
planned  kitchen  has  at  last  been  recognised  as  a 
necessity.  In  fact,  a  housekeeping  workshop 
built  and  equipped  so  as  to  conserve  to  the  utmost 
the  housekeeper's  energy  and  time,  guaranteeing 
worth-while,  happy  accomplishment,  is  in  constant 


A  KITCHEN  THAT  WILL  HELP  YOU  211 

demand.  Even  where  professional  service  can  be 
employed  by  the  hour,  and  the  housekeeper  her- 
self relieved  of  the  greater  portion  of  the  work, 
fitting  kitchen  conditions  are  an  important  ele- 
ment in  the  successful  development  and  definite 
establishment  of  this  progressive  and  reasonable 
means  of  getting  the  housework  done.  Architects, 
builders,  and  manufacturers  of  household  equip- 
ment are  co-operating  to  meet  this  new  kitchen 
need,  and  have  already  succeeded  in  accomplish- 
ing much. 

An  ever-present  cleanliness  easily  maintained, 
compact  convenience,  based  on  fundamental  at- 
tractiveness, are  the  new  standards,  while  the 
principal  features  of  a  desirable  kitchen  might 
be  summed  up  as  follows: 

Favorable  location  in  relation  to  exposure. 
Convenient  location  in  relation  to  house  as  a 
whole. 

Pleasant  outlook. 
Proper  ventilation. 

Good  lighting,  both  natural  and  artificial. 
Light-colored,  easily  cleaned,  durable  surfaces. 
Compact  floor  plan  and  arrangement  of  equip- 
ment, facilitating  the  natural  order  of  work. 
A  convenient  and  normal  place  for  everything, 
and  everything  in  its  place. 
Equipment  set  at  a  comfortable  working  height, 
with  working  surfaces  uniform  in  height. 
Elimination    of    all    unnecessary    floor    space, 
angles,  corners,  surfaces,  equipment,  utensils. 


212       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

A  rest-corner  or  alcove. 

Attractiveness,  both  in  the  effect  of  the  whole 

as  well  as  in  individual  equipment. 

Money  may  be  an  important  factor  in  securing 
certain  ideal  conditions,  and  is  usually  the  de- 
termining one  when  selecting  materials  and  equip- 
ment, and  yet  a  good  kitchen  is  not  necessarily  a 
costly  one.  Intelligent,  careful  planning  counts 
for  quite  as  much  as  the  money  which  can  be 
spent;  in  addition,  the  market  is  now  not  only 
supplied  with  every  conceivable  type  of  satis- 
factory labor-saving  material  and  device,  but  is 
also  more  or  less  prepared  to  offer  a  choice  in 
style,  quality,  and  size  to  meet  every  need  and 
every  purse.  We  have  but  to  ask  or  look,  and 
what  we  need,  or  want,  or  can  afford  to  pay  for 
can  almost  always  be  found. 

While  the  best  location  for  a  kitchen  is  largely 
controlled  by  climate  and  local  conditions,  one 
with  windows  toward  the  north,  northeast,  or 
northwest  is  usually  the  most  perfect.  The  light 
is  favorable  for  working,  and  there  will  be  sun- 
shine enough  during  the  year,  at  the  extremes 
of  the  day,  to  bring  cheer  and  refreshment,  with- 
out excessive  heat  in  the  summer  months.  Doors 
and  windows  should  be  so  arranged  that  good 
lighting,  and  cross-currents  of  air  insuring  perfect 
ventilation  are  secured  without  loss  of  adequate 
wall  space.    In  this  connection,  the  high  casement 


he  Dinin/C  Alcove 


THE  WINDOW,  A  WHITE-ENAMELED  TABLE  THAT  NEEDS  NO 
CLOTH,  AND  THE  SHELVES  FOR  GAY  PEASANT  POTTERY  MAKE 
THIS    BREAKFAST   ALCOVE    A   DELIGHT 


A  KITCHEN  THAT  WILL  HELP  YOU  215 

window  may  have  advantages.  If  possible,  guard 
against  a  passage  through  the  kitchen  which 
would  cut  it  in  half,  interrupting  compact  work- 
ing conditions.  Plumbing  should  be  simple,  ex- 
posed, and  the  best  that  can  be  afforded  is  always 
the  cheapest  in  the  end.  Where  electricity  is 
available,  clever  wall  and  floor  plugging  for  elec- 
tric apparatus  can  be  immensely  valuable.  Arti- 
ficial lighting  should  be  carefully  thought  out. 

Kitchen  convenience  in  relation  to  the  life  of 
the  home  as  a  whole  must  also  be  definitely  con- 
sidered. While  it  is  wise  to  make  special  pro- 
vision for  laundry,  cleaning,  and  other  work  not 
directly  connected  with  the  preparation  of  meals, 
these  interests  should  not  be  too  far  from  the 
kitchen.  Where  the  family  is  large  and  one  pair 
of  hands  must  do  all  the  work,  direct  communica- 
tion between  kitchen  and  dining-room,  both  by 
door  and  pass-window — the  latter,  in  connection 
with  shelving  for  china,  located  near  the  sink — 
is  a  great  step-saver.  Under  more  favorable 
conditions,  a  small  entry  or  pantry,  setting  the 
kitchen  a  little  apart,  may  have  desirable  feat- 
ures. In  the  country  home,  the  convenient  re- 
lation of  kitchen  to  both  dining-room  and  eating 
porch  ought  not  to  be  overlooked,  so  that  sea- 
sonable adjustments  can  easily  be  made.  A 
dining-alcove  will  add  a  note  of  quaint,  happy 
charm,  and  can  be  most  useful. 


216        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

The  food-pantry,  with  an  outside  window, 
should  be  located  on  the  coolest,  yet  somewhat 
protected,  corner  or  side  of  the  kitchen.  It  should 
not  be  too  far  from  the  dining-room.  If  this 
pantry  can,  at  the  same  time,  be  at  that  end  of 
the  kitchen  where  the  work-table  and  sink  are 
also  located,  conditions  are  ideal.  Where  ex- 
posure and  general  convenience  must  be  consid- 
ered, however,  this  is  not  always  possible,  and 
a  compromise  must  frequently  be  made.  This  is 
true  in  other  planning,  too,  when  single  con- 
venience must  sometimes  be  sacrificed  for  the 
greater  convenience  of  the  whole.  Moreover,  in 
planning  do  not  let  us  forget  that  beauty  as  an 
intimate  part  of  convenience  deserves  considera- 
tion, too.  That  which  is  harmonious  and  cheering 
in  effect  can  rest  the  nerves  and  prevent  fatigue 
in  quite  as  definite  a  way  as  any  step-saving  floor 
plan  or  labor-saving  device.  It  is  wise,  further, 
to  remember  that  living  requirements  are  not 
alike  in  all  families,  nor  is  kitchen-work  neces- 
sarily the  same  from  day  to  day,  and,  just  to  this 
extent,  with  even  the  most  approved  suggestions 
to  follow,  individual  adaptations  must  be  made 
and  the  real  efficiency  come  from  the  heart  of  the 
worker. 

Unless  one  can  afford  porcelain  tiling,  a  good 
quality  washable  paint,  on  hard  plaster — or  on 
metal  tiling — in  deep  ivory,  light  buff,  or  a  soft, 


A  KITCHEN  THAT  WILL  HELP  YOU  217 

cheerful  gray  is  the  best  wall  finish,  with  enameled 
trim  in  the  same  color  or  in  a  rich  cream- white. 
This  finish  is  not  extravagant  and  may  be  re- 
painted when  neces- 
sary at  a  reasonable 
price.  While  light 
painted  and  enameled 
surfaces  may  "show 
the  dirt,"  they  are 
easily  cleaned,  and 
there  is  always  the  in- 
centive to  "keep  them 
clean"  because  of  the 
buoyant  satisfaction 
that  follows  the  ef- 
fort. Surely  the  rest- 
ful, inspiring  joyous- 
ness  created  in  the 
spirit  by  white  enamel 
paint    cannot     be  the  new  "flush"  or  "sani- 

:~~~~~A  A  11      ~ A       TARY "  DOOR/    THE  GLASS  PUSH- 

ignored.  All  wood-  pLATE  SAVES  CLEANING  AND  A 
work,  doors,  and  window  prevents  accidents 
shelves  and  any  built- 
in  equipment  should  be  smooth  and  free  from 
grooves,  crevices,  and  corners  where  dust  and 
dirt  may  collect.  The  new  kitchen  doors  that 
meet  this  requirement  are  variously  known  as 
sanitary,  flush,  or  slab.  The  possibilities  of  metal 
trim  and  construction   are   receiving   attention. 


218       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM      ' 

Door  and  dresser  knobs  may  be  of  white  por- 
celain or  glass. 

A  good  quality  linoleum,  or  floor  oil-cloth,  at- 
tractive in  color  and  pattern — to  harmonize  with 
whatever  picture  scheme  one  has  in  mind  — 
properly  laid,  stretched,  fitted,  and  cemented  to 
the  floor,  is  still  considered  the  most  sanitary, 
practical,  and  comfortable  floor  at  the  price.  To 
preserve  it,  and  to  make  the  cleaning  easy,  lino- 
leum should  be  rubbed,  when  laid,  with  a  good 
floor  wax,  and  the  waxing  renewed,  as  necessary, 
after  the  floor  has  been  thoroughly  washed.  A 
thin  coating  of  shellac  can  also  be  used  with  good 
results,  and  if  it  is  renewed  three  or  four  times 
a  year,  even  an  inexpensive  oil-cloth  will  wear 
without  a  blemish  for  several  years. 

Composition  and  tile  floors  are  ideally  sanitary 
and  indefinitely  permanent,  but  comparatively 
expensive  as  well  as  cold  and  tiring  to  stand  on. 
A  cork- compound  flooring — made  in  a  variety 
of  desirable  colors,  and  laid  in  attractive  block- 
title  designs — combines  the  good  points  of  both 
linoleum  and  tile;  it  will  cost  more  than  the 
linoleum,  however,  but  less  than  the  tile.  A 
sanitary  cove  base  of  tile  or  composition  ma- 
terial is  worth  some  sacrifice  in  other  direc- 
tions. Such  a  base  prevents  corner  accumula- 
tions, simplifies  the  cleaning  of  the  entire  floor, 
and    is   a  partial    insurance,    at    least,   against 


A  KITCHEN  THAT  WILL  HELP  YOU  219 


•of 


i. 


'      I 


mice  and  insect  troubles.  If  the  floors  of  pan- 
tries and  cupboards,  and  any  stair  landing  lead- 
ing to  the  cellar,  are  treated 
and  finished  as  part  of  the 
kitchen  floor,  an  atmos- 
phere of  finished  harmony  pre- 
vails. 

Against  some  such  back- 
ground as  this,  add  your  gaily 
colored  pottery  cups  and  plates 
— in  neat,  single  rows  on  an 
open,  white-enameled,  narrow- 
shelved  dresser  —  and  short, 
crisp,  white,  cross-barred 
ruffles  across  the  window-tops, 
and  there  can  be  no  grimy 
side  to  kitchen  work.  Not 
unless  we  ourselves  may  choose 
to  make  it  so.  Even  the  stair-  cross  -  section  of 
way  leading  to  a  basement  =«  s«V™° 
laundry  can  be  painted  a  each  two  inches 
clean,  hard,  battle-ship  gray,  ^""J."^ 
and  open  on  a  picture  that  permitting  cups 
rivals  a  little  piece  of  stage  -o --hers^be 
fairy-land,  if  we  but  will  to  tage.  the  "in- 
have  it  so.  And  loving  it  ™owe\TaV.s 
and  wanting  it  is  almost  the  worth  noting — 
most  that  it  need  cost  us.  £»™ »«. »; 
Let  us  want  it,  that  is  all!         shelving 


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vfECTION 
KtichenDreijer 


220        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

When  planning  a  new  kitchen,  the  size  will 
depend  largely  on: 

Its  relation  to  the  house  as  a  whole. 
The  size  of  the  family. 
The  uses  to  which  it  must  be  put. 
The  amount  of  wall  space  left  for  large  equip- 
ment, after  the  necessary  doors  and  windows 
have  been  provided. 
Individual  preference. 

In  remodeling  an  old  kitchen,  the  best,  of  course, 
must  be  made  of  conditions  as  they  exist. 

Neither  the  very  large  nor  the  very  small 
kitchen  can  be  recommended.  In  the  large 
kitchen  too  much  walking  is  required,  and  there 
is  too  much  surface  to  be  kept  clean.  In  a  kitchen 
that  is  too  small,  overcrowding  can  cause  equal 
inconvenience.  An  oblong  rather  than  a  square 
floor  plan  usually  suggests  the  best  arrangement 
for  easy  working  conditions,  although  the  square 
kitchen  is  always  happy-looking,  and  offers  a 
generous  corner  as  a  compact  working  base.  Eight 
feet  by  ii  feet  is  a  good  size  for  a  kitchenette; 
10  feet  by  12  feet,  or  n  feet  by  13  feet,  or  12 
feet  by  12  feet,  or  11  feet  by  14  feet  are  good 
sizes  for  a  family  kitchen.  It  is  the  layout  of  this 
floor  plan,  however,  that  is  so  important,  as  it 
is  the  compact,  logical  arrangement  of  the  work- 
ing equipment,  rather  than  the  actual  number  of 
square  feet  as  measured,  that  really  controls  the 


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A  KITCHEN  FLOOR  PLAN  THAT  SHOWS  COMPACT  ARRANGE- 
MENT OF  WORK-TABLE,  SINK  AND  STOVE,  A  BREAKFAST 
ALCOVE,  AN  OPEN,  NARROW-SHELVED  DRESSER  IN  CON- 
VENIENT RELATION  TO  DINING-ROOM,  EATING  PORCH 
AND  LIVING-ROOM,  AND  A  FOOD-PANTRY  NEAR  BOTH 
DINING-ROOM  AND  PORCH 
15 


A  KITCHEN  THAT  WILL  HELP  YOU  223 

number  of  steps  to  be  taken.  Even  a  very  large 
kitchen  may  be  made  convenient  and  comfort- 
able by  confining  the  working  equipment  to  one 
end  or  corner,  and  dividing  off  the  remaining 
portion  to  be  used  as  a  breakfast  alcove  or  rest- 
corner. 

Every  working  unit  should  be  so  placed  that 
the  common  household  tasks  which  are  done 
over  and  over  again — not  only  every  day,  but 
many  times  every  day — can  proceed  in  the  fol- 
lowing normal,  logical  order: 

The  income  of  food. 

Its  storage  in  refrigerator  or  pantry. 

The  preparation  of  food. 

Cooking. 

Serving. 

Dish-washing. 

Replacing  of  dishes  on  shelves  or  in  cupboard. 

Disposal  of  waste. 

Cleaning  up  of  the  kitchen. 

If  this  sequence  can  progress,  as  far  as  possible, 
from  left  to  right,  the  instinctive  method  of  doing 
all  things,  with  no  or  very  little  recrossing  of  the 
room,  and  that  by  the  shortest  way,  much  time 
and  fatigue  usually  connected  with  the  prep- 
aration of  meals  can  be  saved. 

In  the  wisely  planned  kitchen,  for  example, 
one  will  find: 


224       FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

The  food-pantry  with  refrigerator  near  the 
outside  entrance. 

The  work-table  or  cabinet  with  utensils,  sink, 
and  stove  closely  grouped,  forming  a  complete 
unit  for  the  preparation  of  food,  cooking,  and 
washing  of  utensils  and  dishes. 

Shelves  for  dishes  near  the  sink,  preferably  to 
the  left,  and  in  the  direct  path  to  dining-room 
or  eating  porch, 

A  wheel-tray,  with  a  permanent  nook  near  both 
sink  and  stove,  for  carrying  cooked  food  to  the 
table,  and  soiled  dishes  back  to  the  kitchen  sink. 

A  small,  white-enameled  refuse-can — with  a 
cover  operated  by  a  foot-pedal — near  or  under 
the  sink. 

A  small  closet,  close  by,  for  kitchen-cleaning 
materials. 

Proper  facilities  for  storage  of  food  and  uten- 
sils, the  work-table,  sink,  and  stove  constitute 
the  fixed  equipment,  and  their  individual  con- 
sideration is  as  important  as  their  relation  to 
one  another.  This  fixed  or  large  equipment  should 
be  selected  and  arranged  for  service,  and  economy 
of  operation  and  maintenance,  and  should  har- 
monize in  finish,  color,  and  outline  as  far  as  may 
be  practical  with  the  kitchen  plan  as  a  whole. 
In  general,  plan  or  select  equipment  that  is  fitted 


A  KITCHEN  THAT  WILL  HELP  YOU  225 

to  the  size  and  needs  of  the  family,  that  does  not 
occupy  unnecessary  floor  space,  and  has  no  com- 
plicated or  superfluous  parts  to  get  out  of  order. 
Perhaps  the  most  satisfactory  way  to  make  a 
selection  of  any  needed  piece  of  large  equipment 
that  must  be  purchased  is  to  apply  for  descriptive 
catalogues,  with  price-lists,  from  manufacturers 
of  reliable  articles  in  which  one  is  interested. 
From  these  circulars  a  careful,  comparative  study 
of  sizes,  cost,  principles  of  operation,  and  other  prac- 
tical details  can  be  made  before  coming  to  a  con- 
clusion. Many  dealers  gladly  permit  a  trial  test 
before  the  purchase  is  made;  where  this  can  be 
arranged,  it  offers  additional  insurance  for  future 
satisfaction. 

Kitchen  food-storage  space  must  include  suit- 
able provision  for  both  perishable  and  dry  foods 
in  current  use,  as  well  as  a  special  shelf  or  small 
closet,  set  a  little  apart,  for  extra  stock  or 
emergency  foods.  If  possible,  combine  these 
needs  in  one  large  pantry — 7  feet  by  6  feet 
is  a  fair  average  size — with  a  window,  so  that 
all  food-storage  interests  are  confined  to  the 
one  center.  The  walls  and  shelves  of  this  pantry 
should  be  finished  in  a  hard,  smooth,  white- 
enamel  paint,  so  that  wiping  and  cleaning  are 
always  easy.  Shelf  papers  or  oil-cloths  are  un- 
sanitary, and,  with  painted  shelves,  unnecessary. 
The  shelves  should  be  spaced,  as  far  as  practical, 


226       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

to  fit  the  articles  to  be  stored,  and  should  be 
narrow  rather  than  wide — varying  in  width, 
approximately,  from  6  to  12  inches — so  that 
all  articles  may  be  placed  in  single  rows  only. 
This  plan  automatically  prevents  disorder.  One 
wider  shelf  will  be  needed  for  bread-  and  cake- 
boxes;  a  cutting-board  and  knife,  conveniently 
placed,  may  complete  this  shelf.  Shelving  should, 
further,  be  so  arranged  that  articles  most  fre- 
quently needed  are  most  easily  reached.  Shelv- 
ing that  is  too  high  or  too  low  is  never  practical; 
5  feet  6  inches  is  a .  good  limit  for  the  highest 
shelf,  and  15  inches  from  the  floor  for  the  low- 
est shelf.  Corners  of  shelves  should  be  rounded, 
and  the  shelves  fitted  a  scant  one-third  of  an  inch 
from  the  wall;  this  prevents  dust  accumulation 
and  makes  cleaning  easy. 

Covered  glass  jars  are  attractive  and  practical 
for  dry  groceries.  For  perishable  foods,  a  re- 
frigerator is  usually  a  necessity.  The  chief 
points  of  a  desirable  refrigerator  include  easily 
cleaned,  sanitary  surfaces,  particularly  on  the 
inside,  a  construction  that  will  maintain  a  low 
temperature  at  a  minimum  ice  consumption,  with 
perfect  circulation  of  air  currents,  and  an  ice 
chamber  that  is  easily  filled.  A  well-fitting  drain- 
pipe for  carrying  off  the  water  is  essential.  The 
location  of  the  refrigerator  in  relation  to  con- 
venient icing  should  not  be  overlooked.    Refrig- 


/"Windoco       over 

Ine     Kifcnen  sinlo 


A  KITCHEN  THAT  WILL  HELP  YOU  229 

eration  without  ice  is  not  yet  possible  for  all,  but 
it  is  coming. 

Food  preparation  is  the  next  step.  This  re- 
quires food  materials,  utensils,  water,  and  a  prac- 
tical non-absorbent,  sanitary  surface,  installed  at 
a  comfortable  working  level.  Both  kitchen  floor 
space  and  waste  effort  will  be  saved  if  the  usual 
work-table  or  cabinet  and  the  constantly  needed 
sink,  with  its  two  drain-boards,  can  be  combined 
so  as  to  form  one  compact  working  base  or  unit, 
the  whole — with  a  deep-silled  casement  window 
to  light  it — within  easy  reach  or  stepping  distance 
of  the  stove.  The  ideal  arrangement  is  to  have 
the  table-top  and  left-hand  drain-board  form  one 
continuous  working  surface,  with  the  water  fau- 
cets of  the  sink  within  instant  reach  of  the  right 
hand,  and  the  sink  itself  immediately  available 
for  such  work  as  vegetable  cleaning  and  the  wash- 
ing of  used  utensils.  A  fair  average  height  for 
this  combination  table  and  drain-board  level  will 
vary  from  33  to  36  inches.  This  height  will 
bring  the  inside  bottom  of  the  sink  approxi- 
mately from  26  to  30  inches  from  the  floor. 
In  the  case  of  a  very  tall  worker,  it  may  be 
necessary  to  raise  this  level  an  inch  or  two. 
It  is  difficult  to  make  arbitrary  statements, 
however ;  whatever  height  will  permit  the  worker 
to  stand  without  bending  the  back,  or  being  other- 
wise uncomfortable,  is  correct. 


23o       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

A  porcelain  or  white-enameled  sink  with  in- 
tegral back  and  nickeled  faucets  is  desirable.  In 
sinks  of  this  kind  there  are  sizes  and  qualities 
and  styles  to  meet  every  need.  Where  space  will 
not  permit  of  two  drain-boards,  the  one  that  can 
be  provided  should  be  placed  at  the  left.  Wood 
drain-boards,  while  not  as  sanitary  as  the  new 
enameled  boards,  afford  the  best  working  surface. 
The  top  of  the  table  may  be  of  zinc,  nickeloid, 
white-enameled  steel,  or  a  vitrified  glass.  The 
white  glass  is  perfect  in  appearance,  but  cold 
and  hard  to  work  on,  and  may  crack  if  suddenly 
heated.  Zinc  is  durable  and  inexpensive,  but 
hardly  attractive.  Where  wear  is  not  severe, 
white  enamel  paint  is  sometimes  a  happy  com- 
promise. Add  to  this  a  permanent  white-glass 
pastry-board,  placed  at  one  end,  and  you  have 
an  excellent  table.  To  preserve  the  enameled 
surface,  it  may  be  waxed  occasionally. 

Cleverly  grouped  in  and  around  this  unit,  ac- 
cording to  individual  need  and  preference,  should 
be  found  all  the  smaller  utensils  and  a  reasonable 
supply  of  such  dry  foods  as  may  be  in  constant 
use.  The  food  may  be  kept  in  white-porcelain 
jars  placed  in  a  row  across  the  back  of  the  table- 
top,  or  on  a  narrow,  white-enameled  shelf  immedi- 
ately over  the  table.  Utensils  may  be  hung  on 
hooks,  or  arranged  on  suitable  shelving  at  the 
side  or  under  the  table,  as  may  best  fit  space  and 


A  KITCHEN  THAT  WILL  HELP  YOU  233 

preference.  In  this  way,  an  illogical  assortment 
of  food  and  utensils,  which  is  neither  helpful  nor 
attractive,  is  avoided. 

The  choice  of  a  stove  will  depend  largely  upon 
the  most  economical,  available  fuel.  Whatever 
means  or  method  of  cooking  will  best  conserve 
the  fuel-supply  of  the  country,  at  the  same  time 
providing  the  greatest  possible  cooking  conveni- 
ence for  the  home,  should  be  considered.  There 
are  few  localities  where  either  an  oil-,  a  gas-,  or 
an  electric-stove  may  not  be  used,  and  house- 
keepers who  have  signed  the  emancipation  proc- 
lamation prefer  any  one  of  these  to  a  coal-stove. 
Sometimes  the  use  of  more  than  one  stove  is  the 
wisest  solution  for  the  cooking  problem.  For 
example,  an  oil-  or  a  gas-stove  may  be  operated 
in  conjunction  with  electric  table  devices,  result- 
ing in  the  very  greatest  cooking  comfort.  What- 
ever the  special  needs  may  be,  there  are  fuels 
and  stoves  and  combination  possibilities  to  meet 
them  all. 

For  kitchen  refuse,  any  one  of  a  number  of 
white-enameled,  sanitary  containers,  with  lids 
operated  by  means  of  a  foot-pedal,  solve  this 
part  of  the  food  problem.  A  unique  garbage-box 
of  paper,  to  be  completely  destroyed  at  the  end 
of  the  day,  is  a  recent  innovation.  The  gas- 
incinerator  and  other  practical  refuse-destroyers 
suggest  the  trend  of  ultimate  disposition  where 


234        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

this  is  not  cared  for  by  local  municipal  au- 
thority. 

The  small  equipment  consists  of  such  utensils 
as  are  required  for  the  preparation  of  food,  dish- 
washing, and  care  of  the  kitchen.  While  many 
good  lists  of  the  small  equipment  of  a  kitchen 
have  been  made,  there  is  no  list  complete  or 
perfect  for  all  conditions.  Tools  must  satisfy 
not  only  the  particular  requirements  of  the  house- 
hold in  which  they  are  to  be  used,  but  the  in- 
dividuality of  the  one  who  is  to  use  them.  Uten- 
sils should  number  as  few  as  possible,  and  be  as 
good  in  quality  and  as  light  in  weight  as  is  con- 
sistent with  the  purpose  for  which  they  are  in- 
tended. 

Before  purchasing  any  utensil  always  ask:  Do 
I  need  this  particular  tool  ?  While  nothing  should 
be  lacking  to  make  kitchen-work  go  easily,  quick- 
ly, and  well,  yet  every  tool  or  utensil  that  one 
can  do  without  is  just  one  less  to  find  a  place  for 
and  keep  clean.  Although  a  utensil  may  be  pur- 
chased specifically  to  save  labor,  every  article 
brought  into  the  kitchen,  in  itself,  increases 
labor.  Before  buying  any  tool,  therefore,  let 
us  be  very  sure  that  it  will  serve  us  more  than 
it  will  work  us. 

Having  concluded  that  it  is  needed,  check  it 
next  for  its  value: 


A  KITCHEN  THAT  WILL  HELP  YOU   235 

Is  it  fitted  for  the  work  required? 

In  size. 

Material. 

Shape. 

Construction. 

Will  it  save  labor  as  claimed? 

Is  it  a  good  investment? 

As  to  first  cost. 

As  to  wearing  qualities. 

As  to  maintenance  cost. 

As  to  time  and  energy  it  will  save. 

As  to  the  pleasure  it  may  give. 

The  properly  selected  tool  will  be  neither  too 
large  nor  too  small  for  its  purpose;  it  will  be 
sound  in  construction,  with  no  complicated  parts 
to  get  out  of  order  or  require  unnecessary  care; 
the  material  will  be  the  most  desirable  for  the 
use  to  which  the  tool  is  to  be  put,  and  will  not 
in  any  way  injuriously  affect  the  food  with  which 
it  comes  in  contact;  it  will  not  be  awkward  to 
handle;  it  will  give  one  pleasure  to  look  at  it; 
it  will  bring 'a  just  return  in  labor  saved  or  other 
profit  for  the  investment,  and  the  price  will  be 
fair  for  the  quality  offered. 

The  sanitary,  well-arranged  kitchen  will  re- 
quire very  little  special  cleaning,  other  than  that 
covered  by  the  normal  every-day  care.     Where 


236        FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

sanitary  conditions  exist,  whatever  cleaning  is 
necessary  can  be  accomplished  with  very  little 
effort.  If,  in  fact,  the  kitchen  is  that  ideal  place 
about  which  we  have  been  dreaming  and  for  which, 
too,  many  of  us  have  been  working,  then  cleaning 
up  in  the  kitchen  really  resolves  itself  into — well 
— almost  fun ! 


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LET  US  MAKE  OF  OUR  HOMES  A  PLACE  WHERE  THE 
FAIRIES  SHALL  LOVE  TO  COME  AND  DANCE  AMONG 
THE  PITCHERS  AND  THE   TEA-POTS 


A  KITCHEN  THAT  WILL  HELP  YOU  237 

REFERENCES: 

For  further  practical  details  and  helpful  suggestions 
in  planning  and  equipping  a  labor-saving  kitchen,  see: 

"  Planning  the  Home  Kitchen,"  Helen  Binkerd  Young, 
Cornell  Reading  Course,  Cornell  University, 
Ithaca,  N.  Y. 

"Planning  and  Equipping  the  Kitchen,"  Home  Eco- 
nomics Bulletin,  Iowa  State  College,  Ames,  Iowa. 

The  New  Housekeeping,  Christine  Frederick. 

The  Efficient  Kitchen,  Georgie  Boynton  Child. 

"The  Farm  Kitchen  as  a  Work  Shop,"  Anna  Barrows, 
Farmers'  Bulletin  607,  United  States  Department 
of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C. 

"Household  Engineering,  Good  Housekeeping  Insti- 
tute," Good  Housekeeping  Magazine,  119  West 
Fortieth  Street,  New  York,  N.  Y. 

Journal  of  Home  Economics,  American  Home  Econom- 
ics Association,  Baltimore,  Md. 

Note. — In  addition  to  the  valuable  food  and  home- 
making  articles,  this  publication  contains,  from 
time  to  time,  interesting  and  practical  articles  on 
kitchen  arrangement  and  equipment. 

See,  also,  References  listed  at  close  of  Chapter  III. 
16 


XII 

JUST   THOUGHTS 

AVING  food  for  the  country  is  not  al- 
ways saving  money  for  the  home,  and 
there *are  moments  when  it  takes  the 
finest  courage  and  the  sanest  judgment 
to  strike  a  wise  balance  between 
the  two. 

Both  in  arranging  the  menus,  in  Chapter  VI, 
and  in  selecting  the  recipes  given  in  Chapter 
IX,  it  was  not  always  easy — although  the  effort 
was  made — to  consider,  equally,  the  food  needs 
of  the  world,  the  easiest  and  most  attractive 
way  in  housekeeping,  and  what  might  be  best 
from  a  purely  dietetic  or  health  standpoint. 
In  cases,  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  sacrifice 
one  ideal  for  another.  Just  which  must  stand 
and  which  must  go  can  only  be  definitely  decided 
by  the  individual  housekeeper  according  to  the 
most  urgent  need  of  the  moment. 


The  Food  Administration  has  made  thel  follow- 
ing general  "war-time"  ruling  in  reference  to 
cooking,  and  recipes  approved  by  the  administra- 


JUST    THOUGHTS  239 

tion  must  conform  to  this  standard  during  our 
period  of  emergency: 

To  use  no  butter  in  cooking,  but  to  substitute 
drippings,  vegetable  oils,  nut  butters,  or  "but- 
ter substitutes." 

To  use  small  amounts  of  fat  only  in  cooking, 
and  not  to  fry  in  deep  fat. 

To  use  all  pork  products  sparingly. 

To  use  cream  sparingly. 

To  use  sugar  sparingly,  substituting  honey 
or  syrup  when  practical. 

Not  to  use  toast  as  a  garnish,  or  to  serve 
foods  on  toast. 

To  use  wheat  substitutes — other  flours  and 
cereals — for  part  of  the  wheat  flour  normally 
used,  and  to  use  all  wheat  products  sparingly. 

While  these  rulings  may  change  as  the  food 
needs  of  the  world  change,  it  would  be  well  if 
some  of  these  restrictions  were  more  consistently 
observed  at  all  times  than  they  have  been.  Fried 
foods,  pastry,  except  on  rare  occasions,  and 
all  dishes  containing  large  quantities  of  sugar 
and  fat  are  extravagant  and  seldom  wholesome; 
a  variety  of  flours  and  cereals  is  always  best, 
while  pork,  from  a  purely  hygienic  stand- 
point, should  be  used  with  discretion. 


240       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 


In  selecting  the  recipes  in  Chapter  IX,  as  a 
matter  of  principle  and  as  far  as  practical 
these  rulings  have  been  observed.  It  may 
be  necessary,  however,  to  adapt  the  recipes 
to  the  changing  food  needs  of  the  world  as 
these  develop,  and  it  is  urged  that,  at  all  times, 
they  should  be  used  with  judgment  and  checked 
with  current  requests  of  the  Food  Adminis- 
tration. It  will  be  necessary  to  watch  care- 
fully, very  probably,  the  kind  of  flours  most 
desirable  to  use,  and  the  quantities  of  sugar 
and  fat  available;  the  use  of  cream  is  fre- 
quently a  matter  that  can  only  be  determined 
by  local  supply. 


JUST   THOUGHTS 


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242       FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

HOW  TO  FIND  THE  CALORIE  VALUE 
OF  A  RECIPE 

The  calorie  value   of    a  recipe  may  be  very 
simply  and  approximately  estimated  as  follows: 

i.  Determine  number  of  calories  in  one 
pound,  or  other  given  quantity,  of  each 
ingredient  called  for  in  the  recipe.1 

2.  Determine  number  of  calories  in  that  por- 
tion of  each  ingredient  represented  in  the 
recipe,  and  add  these  figures. 

Example: 

Cup  Custard 

Ingredients 

I  quart  milk  }4  cupful  sugar 

5  eggs  Salt;  flavoring 

1.  I  pint  of  milk.  .  .    =      325  calories 

1  egg =        75  calories 

1  pound  of  sugar    =  1,860  calories 

2.  1  quart  milk.  .    =    2    x       325  calories  =  650  calories 

5  eggs =     5    x  75  calories  =  375  calories 

}4  cupful  sugar  =  J4   x    1,860  calories  =  465  calories 
(Salt  and  flavor  do  not  count.) 

Total  =  1,490  calories 

1,490  =  calorie  value  of  recipe. 

Divided  into  six  equal  portions,  each  portion  would  con- 
tain, approximately,  250  calories. 

1  See  "American  Food  Materials,"  Bulletin  28,  United 
States  Department  of  Agriculture. 

Also,  Rose,  Feeding  the  Family,  Appendix,  specifically 
PP-  349-354- 


JUST   THOUGHTS  243 


With  a  little  practice  one  can  learn  very  quickly 
just  how  many  calories  are  represented  in  one 
egg,  one  tablespoonful  sugar,  one  cupful  flour, 
etc.,  and  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  refer  to 
a  book  or  table  each  time  the  fuel  or  calorie 
value  of  a  recipe  is  to  be  determined. 

By  further  analyzing  the  ingredients  it  is  pos- 
sible to  estimate  how  many  of  the  total  number 
of  calories  are  carbohydrate  calories,  how  many 
are  fat  calories,  and  how  many  are  protein 
calories.  Those  interested  will  find  clear  di- 
rections in  A  Laboratory  Handbook  for  Dietetics, 
by  Mary  Swartz  Rose. 

For  tables  giving  "100  Calorie  Portions"  of 
our  usual  or  common  foods,  see  Fisher  and 
Fisk,  How  to  Live,  pages  170-190;  also,  Rose, 
Feeding  the  Family,  Appendix. 


244       FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

ABOUT  THE  COST  OF  MILK 

"  In  deciding  whether  any  food  is  high  or  low 
in  price,  we  must  ask  not  merely  how  much 
we  must  pay  for  a  pound  or  a  quart,  but  how 
great  is  the  return  in  actual  food  value.  .  .  . 
In  buying  milk  at  12  cents  a  quart  one  gets 
protein  as  cheaply  as  in  meat  at  25  cents  a  pound, 
or  eggs  at  35  cents  a  dozen,  or  fresh  cod  at  20 
cents  a  pound;  and  one  gets  energy  more 
cheaply  than  from  any  of  these  other  materials. 
Even  at  18  cents,  a  quart  of  milk  would  be 
almost  as  cheap  a  source  of  protein  and  a  cheap- 
er source  of  energy  than  meat  at  35  cents  a 
pound,  it  would  be  a  cheaper  source  of  both 
protein  and  energy  than  eggs  at  60  cents  a  dozen. 
Because  of  these  fa~ts  dietitians  advise  families 
who  must  make  every  penny  count  to  cut  down 
on  their  meat  before  they  do  on  their  milk.,, 
— Lafayette  B.  Mendel. 

"Doctor  Mendel  does  not  wish  to  be  under- 
stood as  saying  that  milk  is  the  cheapest  source 
of  energy.  Cereal  foods  such  as  wheat,  corn, 
oats,  and  rice  hold  that  distinction.  But  they 
lack  lime  and  other  nutritious  substances  which 
milk  contains.  'Milk  and  cereals  together,' 
says  Doctor  Mendel,  'make  a  remarkable  com- 
bination; "bread-and-milk"  is  justified  not 
only  by  experience,  but  by  theory.'" — United 
States  Food  Administration. 


JUST   THOUGHTS  245 

LABOR-SAVING  DEVICES  VERSUS 
"HIRED  HELP" 

"The  labor-saving  devices  in  America  are  aids 
to  a  new  domesticity  which  will  gradually  do 
away  with  the  servant  question  as  it  exists." 
— Mrs.  Havelock  Ellis. 

"The  amount  of  time  required  for  housework 
is  affected  to  a  considerable  degree  by  the  tools 
with  which  the  work  is  done;  in  other  words, 
by  the  extent  to  which  labor-saving  devices 
are  used." — John  B.  Leeds,  M.A. 

A  fair  annual  budget  allowance  for  household 
service,  as  estimated  for  an  average  family  with 
an  income  of  $3,000  is  $130,  in  addition  to  the 
time  and  labor  given  to  household  work  by 
the  housekeeper.1  The  following  chart  sug- 
gests how  this  $130  might  be  spent  in  securing 
help  by  means  of  labor-saving  devices  rather 
than  through  " hired  help." 

1  Cf.  Ellen  H.  Richards,  The  Cost  of  Living. 
Also,  Benjamin  R.  Andrews,  Ph.D.,  A  Survey  of  Your 
Household  Finances. 

Also,  John  B.  Leeds,  M.A.,  The  Household  Budget. 


246 


FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 


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JUST   THOUGHTS  247 

HOT  WEATHER  COOKING  SUGGESTIONS 

Not  the  Least  of  the  Summer  Problems  Is  the 
Overheated  Kitchen 

WHAT  YOU  CAN  DO  TO  KEEP  YOUR  KITCHEN  COOL 

Work  before  9  a.m.  and  after  9  p.m. 

Cook  out  of  doors  or  on  the  porch. 

Do  the  canning  and  preserving  out  of  doors. 

Use  ready-to-eat  and  quickly  prepared  foods. 

Use  a  fireless  cooker  or  fireless-oven  range. 

Use  a  chafing-dish  at  the  table. 

Adopt  the  electric  breakfast. 

Go  out  to  dinner  with  a  picnic  basket. 

Serve  sandwich  suppers  on  the  porch. 

Make  frozen  desserts  instead  of  baked  puddings. 

Use  an  electric  fan  in  the  kitchen. 

Do  no  cooking  on  Sundays  and  holidays. 

A  definite  sum  of  money  for  kitchen  conveni- 
ence and  the  saving  of  labor  should  be  a  legiti- 
mate   part    of   the    outlay    belonging    to    any 
•   vacation  which  includes  housekeeping. 

KITCHEN   SCHEDULE   FOR  THE   WARM   MONTHS 

As  living  requirements  and  working  conditions 
differ  in  every  home,  no  very  definite,  practical 
schedule  can  be  arranged  that  might  be  carried 
out  in  all  cases.  The  following  outline  may 
offer  some  suggestions,  however,  for  simplify- 
ing the  hot -weather  cooking,  and  keeping  a  cool 
and  attractive  kitchen. 

•  i 


248       FOOD   AND    FREEDOM 

BEFORE   9   A.M. 

General  preparation,  as  far  as  possible,  of  all  food 
required  for  the  day: 

Meat  and  vegetables:  These,  each  sepa- 
rately or  combined  as  a  stew  or  braised  dish, 
may  be  prepared  and  put  into  fireless  cooker 
or  oven  of  automatic  range. 

Salad:  Greens  can  be  cleaned  and  put  into 
a  cheese-cloth  bag  or  wire  basket  on  ice; 
salad  dressing  may  be  made  and  put  away. 

Bread,  rolls,  cake:  These  may  be  baked,  if 
needed;  small  pans,  rolls,  and  cookies  save 
oven  heat. 

Desserts:  Fruit  may  be  cleaned,  or  fruit 
cocktails  prepared  and  placed  in  refrigerator. 
Custard  may  be  made,  or  syrup  prepared  for 
a  frozen  dish.  Mousse,  for  the  dinner  des- 
sert, may  be  prepared  and  packed  away  in 
the  fireless  cooker. 

Other  preparation:  Syrup  may  be  made  for 
cold  drinks  and  put  in  refrigerator.  Sand- 
wiches may  be  made  for  lunch  or  supper,  tied 
in  a  damp  cloth,  and  put  in  refrigerator.  A 
picnic  lunch  may  be  packed. 

Leave  the  kitchen  in  order  for  the  day. 


JUST   THOUGHTS  249 

AFTER   9   P.M. 

Plan  meals  for  next  day:  j 

Cereal  for  breakfast  may  be  prepared  and 
put  in  fireless  cooker;  or, 

Vegetables  to  be  used  next  day  for  a  vegetable 
salad,  or  cream  soup,  may  be  cooked  over- 
night in  fireless  cooker;  or, 

Beans  for  soup  or  stew,  which  have  been 
soaking  all  day,  may  be  cooked  overnight 
in  fireless  cooker;  or, 

Meat  to  be  used  as  "cold  meat"  may  be 
cooked  overnight  in  fireless  cooker;   or, 

Fruits  for  "stewed  fruit"  may  be  cooked 
overnight  in  fireless  cooker;  or, 

Bread  or  rolls  may  be  mixed  in  bread-mixer, 
to  be  ready  for  early  baking. 

Leave  kitchen  in  order  for  next  day. 


250       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

WHAT  A  CENT'S  WORTH   OF   ELECTRICITY 
WILL  DO  FOR  YOU 

ESTIMATED     APPROXIMATELY    WITH     CURRENT    AT    FIVE 
CENTS   PER   KILOWATT-HOUR 

It  will  operate  a  12 -inch  fan  for  4  hours. 

It  will  bring  to  a  boil  2  quarts  of  water. 

It  will  make  from  4  to  7  cups  of  coffee  in  a  per- 
colator. 

It  will  bake  a  pan  of  biscuit,  or  cook  a  steak, 
on  a  " table-stove.' ' 

It  will  make  a  Welsh  rarebit  in  a  chafing-dish. 

It  will  operate  a  table  toaster  for  25  minutes. 

It  will  operate  an  electric  griddle  for  20  minutes. 

It  will  operate  an  8-inch  saute  pan  for  20 
minutes. 

It  will  warm  the  baby's  milk  in  a  milk- warmer 
for  6  feedings. 

It  will  keep  a  6-pound  flat-iron  hot  for  20 
minutes. 

It  will  run  the  sewing-machine,  or  help  with 
the  washing,  dish-washing,  cleaning,  ice-cream 
freezing,  or  other  work  for  3  hours. 


JUST   THOUGHTS  251 

PUT    YOUR    KITCHEN    ON    A    WAR 
FOOTING 

1.  Determine  type  of  meals  fitted  to  needs  of 
your  family,  and,  in  general,  amount  of 
food  required.  See  that  each  class  of  food 
is  represented,  with  good  cooking,  attrac- 
tive service,  and  some  "flavor"  or  " color " 
to  give  relish. 

2.  Calculate  cost  of  food  in  relation  to  market 
prices,  nourishment  obtained,  digestibility, 
and  time  for  preparation.  Learn  how  to  sub- 
stitute one  food  for  another;  fruit  in  place 
of  a  green  vegetable;  bread  in  place  of  pota- 
toes;  cheese  in  place  of  meat,  etc. 

3.  Serve  as  much  variety  as  possible;  not  neces- 
sarily at  one  meal,  but  in  the  course  of  a  day 
or  week.  In  this  way — and  excepting  definite 
over-  or  under-feeding — the  proper  balance 
of  the  needed  elements  will  be  more  or  less 
automatically  supplied.  Approximately,  this 
averages:  protein,  12  per  cent.;  fat,  18  per 
cent.;  carbohydrate,  68  per  cent.;  mineral  mat- 
ter, 2  per  cent, 

4.  Simplify  menus  and  service.  Few  dishes  at 
one  meal,  and  varied  meals — with  enough  in 
quantity  to  make  up  for  lack  in  variety — is 
a  good  rule;  "picnics"  save  work  and  give 
pleasure;  "combination"  dishes  are  helpful 
and  cheap. 


252       FOOD    AND    FREEDOM 

5.  Do  not  serve  more  than  is  needed  or  will  be 
eaten;  do  not  throw  food  away;  do  not  be 
ashamed  to  be  careful. 

6.  Plan  meals  in  advance;  do  your  own  market- 
ing; accept  only  reliable  packaged  foods; 
try  new  foods;  pay  cash. 


KEEP  UP  TO   DATE 

Remember  that  valuable  food  and  household 
information  may  always  be  obtained  through 
the  State  Agricultural  Colleges,  or  through  the 
Office  of  Information,  or  the  Office  of  Home 
Economics,  the  United  States  Department  of 
Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C,  or  from  the 
United  States  Food  Administration.  Watch  for 
new  bulletins  as  they  may  be  announced.  Spe- 
cialists of  recognized  authority  prepare  these  bul- 
letins, and  the  information  they  contain  is  free 
for  the  asking,  or  for  a  very  nominal  sum  only. 
Special  bulletins  containing  series  of  lessons  for 
clubs  and  neighborhood  work  are  also  available. 


THE   END 


UNIVEKSITY  OF  CALIFOENIA  LIBEAEY, 
BEEKELEY 


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expiration  of  loan  period. 


MM*  20  1W? 


ZZNpilK- 


KQV12 

REC'D 


196549 


OCT  29 '65 -1PM 

LOAN  DEPT. 


rB  15128 


382087 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


